2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission AC Quit - last year I had the AC charged - from a Jiffy Lube...

[hammersley]

Seemed to work OK - today very hot - AC worked great them all of a sudden nothing - If I get it recharged - is that a waste of $$$$ - I mean if there is a leak - how easy is it to find and correct??????

 

[jelag]

There are several ways to detect a leak, one is with an electronic sensor that can sense the leak, and using a dye in the refrigerant. Either tests works fine...

I would never re-charge an empty system without doing this... . your just wasting your time other wise... . I'm guessing that you got some guy who doesn't understand the real way to test these systems or didn't want to bother...

Remember that the AC runs when the defroster is on..... so in the winter the AC is taking the water out of the air before its heated... ...

If it was less than a year I'd go back and have them either refund your money or find the leak and re-charge... . Its my opinion that your due a free re-charge but if there is something that caused the failure, bad hose, leak in the evaporator or condenser etc... . that would be a customer pay issue... .

In some cases you can buy a 134A kit that has the dye in the can for DIY. However to really test and understand the system it requires some gauges, and other items that most DIY'ers don't care to purchase...

 

[The patriot]

You could always spray soap water on the lines. At least the ones you could get to.

Look real good at the connections and schrader valves.

Mine quit too.

It actually needed a puff of gas last year. Worked fine for the rest of the summer.

I added some more 134 the other day and it didnt work today.

I gotta get out there with some windex.

Eric

 

[fest3er]

Any or all of hole in condensor, PCM, high pressure switch, low pressure switch, or clutch/relay could explain why your A/C suddenly stopped working. In my case, the PCM decided to stop letting the A/C work. Bypassed it and it's worked great for some years now. I changed the low pressure switch once, and have cleaned it a number of times.

If it was a slow-ish leak, you would notice the output getting warmer over time, and perhaps the humidity rising some. This is my current problem. I think, after 9. 5 years, that the entire system needs to be re-sealed.

N

 

[jelag]

I might add that there have been talk of changing all vehicles to a 42 volt system... . this new voltage is very stable and would allow a trunk or under cab mounted electric compressor, like what a fridge or freezer has in your home... this system would have a live of 20 years or so as its a sealed system with no shaft or belt drive... instead the electric motor is encased in a sealed housing...

This 42 volt system leads all kinds of features we've never thought about in cars, such as fly by wire steering, valves that open and close by solenoids, giving variable timing valve trains, and almost unlimited hp and torque at any rpm ranges... .

Some of the test engines are very interesting..... and its just around the corner...

 

[ACoyle]

The most likely source of your problem is the evaperator. This is in the cab and part of the heater. My '99 did the same thing. When it was filled, they leak tested it and, sure enough, it leaked.

It is expensive to replace, on the order of 1,000 bones.

It is a common Dodge problem. Thear are some threads here, including an old one, with pictures where a member did his own.



AC

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

Jelag,

The 42 volt thing is dead. I've got a buddy that sits on the SAE 42 Volt board. He told me it's not going to happen. Too many hurldes, for too little benefit.

... thought you might want to know.

Joe

 

[JasonCzerak]

Jelag,

The 42 volt thing is dead. I've got a buddy that sits on the SAE 42 Volt board. He told me it's not going to happen. Too many hurldes, for too little benefit.

... thought you might want to know.

Joe

Aren't most tractors 24 volt? or is that just the starter?

 

[The patriot]

If you mean tractor trailer tractors, theyre mostly 12 volt. They have 4 batteries.

I'm sure there are some oddball's out there (old mil surplus etc).

 

[testraub]

I had a '95 gasser that needed recharging every year. Dye, sensors, nothing ever found the leak in 8 years. Finally I proved to DC that this had been an on-going problem and they basiclly pulled the entire system and replaced it. Didn't have any problems after that, but it was a real hassel. Hope you have better luck finding the leak then I did.

 

[hammersley]

OK - AC is working again - I did nothing......

went to an AC place and we turned it on and it worked great -(blowing 38 degree air with the outside air at 86 degrees) has been working great for the past several hours... ... what can this be?????

 

[jmy]

went to an AC place and we turned it on and it worked great -(blowing 38 degree air with the outside air at 86 degrees) has been working great for the past several hours... ... what can this be?????

Your symptom is that your AC clutch hub is worn badly and the gap between the hub and armature is too big thus AC clutch does not engage.



I see this problem often with trucks that have 200K plus miles.



When the problem occurs again you can see whether the AC clutch is engaged from the top looking down at the compressor. If it is not engaged the clutch hub on front of the hub will not be turning.



If the clutch is not engaged you can check If the hube gap is causing your problem (with the engine off) by removing the AC relay and jumpering across the normally open contact. If the gap is too wide the clutch usually won't engage with the jumper alone but if you tap the clutch hub lightly it will engage.



The clutch hub is shimmed to set the gap. Often you can remove one or two of the shims and the clutch will work again.



The clutch hub is easy to remove from the under the front of the truck. Takes about 5 minutes with a 13mm 3/8 socket and 2 flat blade screwdivers. The hub is on a splined shaft with a skip. It slips right off with a screwdriver blade on each side after you remove the 13mm nut.



You can then remove the shim(s) between the clutch hub and shaft collar. You'll need to line up the skip in the splined shaft to re-install the plate.



Even with a a worn AC clutch hub you can usually get another season or two by removing shim.

 

[hammersley]

Your symptom is that your AC clutch hub is worn badly and the gap between the hub and armature is too big thus AC clutch does not engage.



I see this problem often with trucks that have 200K plus miles.



When the problem occurs again you can see whether the AC clutch is engaged from the top looking down at the compressor. If it is not engaged the clutch hub on front of the hub will not be turning.



If the clutch is not engaged you can check If the hube gap is causing your problem (with the engine off) by removing the AC relay and jumpering across the normally open contact. If the gap is too wide the clutch usually won't engage with the jumper alone but if you tap the clutch hub lightly it will engage.



The clutch hub is shimmed to set the gap. Often you can remove one or two of the shims and the clutch will work again.



The clutch hub is easy to remove from the under the front of the truck. Takes about 5 minutes with a 13mm 3/8 socket and 2 flat blade screwdivers. The hub is on a splined shaft with a skip. It slips right off with a screwdriver blade on each side after you remove the 13mm nut.



You can then remove the shim(s) between the clutch hub and shaft collar. You'll need to line up the skip in the splined shaft to re-install the plate.



Even with a a worn AC clutch hub you can usually get another season or two by removing shim.

That was great info - will give it a try

 

[Forrest Nearing]

also, if you're a little low, it can overcool, and if you live in a humid climate, it'll turn the condenser into a solid block of ice... all of a sudden, AC doesn't work.

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

I charged mine myself a few years back and then it ate the compressor, this year it stopped working so I brought it to a professional, the Evap was leaking, cost to repair came in at $850