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Competition Going to try drag racing for 1st time have?

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With my sig I am wondering if I would be better off doing it in 2wd or 4wd?

I have stock flex plate and shafts in transmission yet. What are your thoughts. I am going to Billings Mont. for the NHRDA dyno day and drags on june 8-9. It is close to 400 miles away and I am driving my rig to it so I want to drive it home. This is the reason for the question. If I run in 2wd I will spin all the way but have a much smaller chance of breaking something. Or do you all think it will hold up in 4wd? I have posted to see if anyone from out east of Bismarck ND on I-94 is going so we can convoy but nobody must be coming from that far so If I break it I will probably need to rent a truck and trailer from U-Haul to get it and me home>:-laf
 
Are you going to the dyno event also?



Where is a good place to stay? The wife wants to reserve a room tonight. :)



I am going to try and make it to the Dyno event. I would think being in 4x4 would be easier on your truck power would be split to two axels instead of just directed to one. I would think the force on your input shaft would be the same reguardless if you were in 4x4 or not.
 
I am going to try and make it to the Dyno event. I would think being in 4x4 would be easier on your truck power would be split to two axels instead of just directed to one. I would think the force on your input shaft would be the same reguardless if you were in 4x4 or not.



In 2wd the ability to spin will lessen the torque load on the flex plate and shafts I would think. In 4wd all the torque will be placed on entire driveline with less chance of spinning.



Which would yield better times or speeds 2wd with loss of traction or 4wd with loss of power through drivetrain but more traction?



Also, should I try to make a few psi boost at line or just go from idle?



I am thinking of going from idle in 4wd to get the best of both worlds and try to lessen breakage for now. If it was closer to home it would be all or nothing.
 
I am going to try and make it to the Dyno event. I would think being in 4x4 would be easier on your truck power would be split to two axels instead of just directed to one. I would think the force on your input shaft would be the same reguardless if you were in 4x4 or not.



that's not the case... if the tires are spinning, torque numbers are much lower.



we're talking launch... once you're moving, it's all the same, but coming out of the hole up against the converter, you're begging for trouble IMO
 
The race track requires a snell 95 rated helmet or new sa2005 as per NHRA rules if faster than 14 seconds. Does anyone think I will need one as I have no idea what speed or time I will be at? And can it be an open face or does it have to be a closed face if I have to buy one? I have 2 motorcycle/snowmobile helmets with no sa or snell stickers on them will these work?
 
I wouldnt do it in 4wd. I broke my output with 5psi of boost when i tried it. I did get lucky and turned out a 13sec pass once on it but the second time it broke easily and that when i had the 150hp inj also.



Cutter
 
The race track requires a snell 95 rated helmet or new sa2005 as per NHRA rules if faster than 14 seconds. Does anyone think I will need one as I have no idea what speed or time I will be at? And can it be an open face or does it have to be a closed face if I have to buy one? I have 2 motorcycle/snowmobile helmets with no sa or snell stickers on them will these work?



With the hp that you dyno'd at, you would run low 13's or even possibly in the 12's, if you had a good launch. With stock shafts you are not going to get a good launch. You had better figure on a helmet. Most tracks now require that the helmet have a snell sticker. It can be either open face or closed. I use an open face (its not as hot).



As far as shafts are concerned, I've seen them hold fine with multiple 10psi boost launches, and others I have seen break in 2 wheel drive on the street. There is just no way of telling. I can tell you though, with the power you are making there is no way you will hook up in 2x4. Not just at the launch, but when it shifts to second as well. My recommendation would be to un-install the Smarty (put it back to stock), so that the factory torque limit works, and then launch easy in 4x4. On 01 and 02, the factory put in a defuel, when boost exceeds a certain amount (min is about 22psi), while it is in 1 and 2nd gear. This was done to help make the shafts live.



Just remember this advice was free, and worth every penny you paid for it! :D



Good luck!

Paul
 
If you leave off of idle, you'll be lucky to get into the 14's. Boosted launches make THAT much of a difference.



Having said that, in your case with stock flex and input, I would not do a boosted launch. You'll have to live with the slower times. Jmho.
 
Paul is more than likely right, by his cradentials (?sp).



I had my smarty in when mine went. i had my stock flex plate in for quiet a while with whats in my sig. so they will hold for a while.
 
If u drive this truck everyday u know when the tires break, so use ur head an try to launch with as much power as the road will let u use. that is the limit of ALL racers. breakage occurs when the limit of equipment is less than the usable output. 4x4 take off will double the traction thus the usable power and if ur trucks parts arent up to the task of 550 hp/1000 fp then ,yes, u will walk home.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys.



I think I will be ok in 2wd at a small low boost launch. I am always breaking the tires loose at stop lights with stock trailer full of cattle anyways so an unloaded launch I think will be easily doable. The hard part will be keeping it going straight while spinning with the LS diff. :eek:



Do I need to do a burn out to warm tires or will radial at's do just as good from a cold stop? Yokahama geolander at's 265 75 16's. about 50% tread left.
 
just clean the tires off a little... also don't be surprised when you spin even more at the track... drag tires hook better at the track than they do on the street... street tires hook better on the street than they do at the track
 
So I shouldn't worry about doing a burn out? Do I need to drive through the burn out area or can you bypass it?
 
if you can drive around it, definately drive around it... just dust the tires off a little to clean them off and get them a little warm. no john force burnouts or anything
 
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