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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Can the average Joe rebuild a turbo??

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Blow by?

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My turbo is starting to go out. Truck is stock, I've never ran too hard. Can you rebuild with average tools and skills? TIA



Tom
 
I would but i was hoping for less down time (and money). If I can rebuild it with a kit I could do it on my day off. Thanks anyway, may end up popping for a new one from Piers.



Tom
 
Depends on your skills and the tools you have. It is basically seals and bearings, with close tolerances. You may also need to make some fixtures to support the unit while pressing the bearings. The time to tool up and cost of parts may not be cost effective depending on your skills and tools available.
 
Thanks for the help guys, SNOKING-what makes the PDR35 special? Is the housing different or is it just quality?



Tom





From their site:

"The PDR HX35 is a hybrid or modified HX35 turbo. It is recommended as a replacement for the existing turbos on 1994 - 2002 Dodge RAM diesels. The PDR turbo is intended for stock trucks that tow and/or for those running up to 350hp. Above 350hp you should consider the PDR HX40, B1 Series or PDR Twin Turbo systems.





The PDR HX35 takes the stock turbo and installs a bigger pinwheel on the compressor side, then machines each housing to very close tolerances that match each individual pinwheel. The result is a turbo that spools up faster than the stock unit and stays within its efficiency range much further. Since we are modifying the compressor side of the turbo, our turbo works the existing 12cm, 14cm, or 16cm exhaust housings and exhaust down pipes. There is no need to buy additional housings or exhaust systems for many applications. This also allows our turbo to retain the use of exhaust brakes as well. For trucks with higher horsepower, we do recommend a 14cm wastegated housing and a 4" exhaust system.



Be sure to specify what year truck you are ordering for. On 1994 -1998. 5 Dodge RAM trucks the wastegate actuator bolts to the exhaust housing, and on 1999 and newer trucks the wastegate actuator is bolted to the compressor housing. We have a design for each.



The PDR HX35 can be used with 2001-2002 automatics with HY35 turbos. A complete turbo with a 12cm to 16cm exhaust housing is required. The turbo will not fit a 9cm housing.





The PDR HX35 can also be used with older 1989-1993 Dodge RAM trucks with WH1 turbos.



The improved air flow from our modified turbo has many benefits. The decreased spool up time improves low end throttle response, reduces turbo lag, reduces smoke at low end acceleration, up to 100 degree reduction in EGT's, and quicker turbo cooling at shutdown. "





SNOKING
 
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They are not that complicated, and usually a rebuild is pretty easy some buy a cartridge assembly that simply swaps out the internals, very quick.
 
Ordered a PDR35 yesterday but I forgot to ask if I'll need any gaskets (manifold to turbo or turbo to downpipe) any thoughts on that? Is my core worth anything seeing it's still working, just a little sick? Thanks for the advice.



Tom
 
Well if you are using the exist exhaust housing, you will only have 2/3 of a turbo left over. So I do not think it will be worth that much. Maybe it can be turned into a loaner for people that want to upgrade their existing HX35 to a PDR35. One has to watch out for how the waste gate is mounted, as there is two setups. Older exhaust housing mounted and new compressor mounted. SNOKING
 
PDR doesn't even build thier own turbos I belive. A place in Tacoma is said to do all the work. And that same shop is MUCH cheaper to deal with for the same parts.



Dave
 
Prime it with some engine oil and spin the pin wheel a few times, then connect the oil feed line and fire it up.
 
in these situations, I vote to just buy a good used replacement turbo for $200-300... you'll like the PDR turbo



but the main point here is, yes, you can rebuild a turbo, no it's usually not worth it. far less down time to just replace it
 
Just got the turbo this afternoon, I've got the old one almost off but I disconnected the wastegate and I think it is hanging up the exhaust impeller because I can't get the turbo to come out. How the he** do you get it the rest of the way out, is the clearance so tight you have to hold your mouth just right or what. Does the wastegate actuator hold it open or shut during normal running? TIA Gonna walk the hound, back in few.



Tom
 
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