Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Correct oil

[Breed]

I have a 1998 12V Q which I bought brand new and it now has 80,000 miles on it. It is used it tow a 11,000 lbs 5th wheel, has a pac brake with 100 horse injectors.

I have always (after it was broken in) Amsoil 15/40 synthetic oil with a fleetguard filter. The vehicle has 80,000 miles and runs great. I change oil once a year and really like Amsoil. What do you think? Is this the best way to go? I really love the truck and it runs great. The only work on the engine I did is replace the starter contacts with Larry B's, you guys are the experts, do you think this is the way to go? Any answer will be greatly appreciated.



Thanks

Breed

Dayton, Nevada

 

[Missouri Mule]

Breed, Cummins recommends Dino oil 15w-40 but many members use Amsoil in their engines. Keep on using it.

 

[AKaiser]

I wouldn't necessarily change what oil you're using, but you'd be advised to do an oil analysis at 6 months if you're going to run a year. That way you know what's going on, especially since you should still be in your 100,000 mile engine warranty.

 

[DonTX]

Since you asked, I am dead set against Amsoil. I used to own a shop, doing major repairs on engines etc. Business was good from Amsoil users, including the local dealer. His Ford gasser V8 was total trash in 40k miles, and were others as well. I feel the same as Cummins, leave it at the dealers location, and use what is recommended.

 

[hsmith]

I have used Delo 15-40 since new. Now have 180k plus and has never been below the full mark at 5k oil change intervals. Also nothing but Fleedgard filters. Think I will stay with them!! No problems at all so far.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I run Amsoil 15w40 in my '98 12 valve Breed, I think it's hard to beat. I ran 20,000 mile changes on my other truck (2001 HO) with the Fleetguard filter (no bypass) with 2 filter changes between oil changes. I would stick with the 15w40 but sample it for sure like AKaiser said.

 

[fest3er]

10K miles per year? Using the new Donaldson filters, you should be able to run the oil that long with ease, just changing the oil and filter once a year. It might be better if you bring the engine up to full operating temp once a month, to be sure you evaporate any collected water. And yes, when you do drain the oil, be sure you have it up to full operating temp first, spray off the drain plug area with some cleaner, dry it, then drain a few quarts, then collect some oil for sampling and analysis. $20 once a year is good insurance.

If you are using Amsoil and are happy with it, then keep using it. By now, if there was any sludge built up, it will have been removed. The sudden release of sludge is usually what kills engines (by plugging the filter and preventing oil from lubricating the engine). That's the main reason convertees are strongly encouraged to use engine flush with a new filter before draining and installing Amsoil: to remove most of the built-up sludge.

A true story, as told to me: someone had a drag racing engine that had just been rebuilt by his trusted engine builder. He put Amsoil in it. Within 5 minutes after starting it, the oil filter plugged up and the engine failed due to no lubrication. The cause, according to him, was Amsoil. The actual cause was more likely that his engine builder did not properly and thoroughly clean the engine block during the rebuild process. Amsoil merely dislodged all the sludge and crud left in the engine; the same sludge and crud that interferes with proper oil flow and cooling.

That said, I'll again say that if you are happy with Amsoil, keep using it. If you have a reason to change to another lube, then change. 6000 mile oil changes (as recommended by the '98 OM) can be easily extended to 10K miles, which is what you seem to run each year; 10K miles is *well* within the life span of Amsoil 15/40, even without bypass filtration.

Neal

 

[AKaiser]

Since you asked, I am dead set against Amsoil. I used to own a shop, doing major repairs on engines etc. Business was good from Amsoil users, including the local dealer. His Ford gasser V8 was total trash in 40k miles, and were others as well. I feel the same as Cummins, leave it at the dealers location, and use what is recommended.

I used Amsoil on my last truck, a 99 1500 w/318 for about 85,000 miles, running oil analysis, bypass filtration, and sold it, still running like a banshee at 175,000 miles. We (my cousin and I) think some kid near us bought it. I never touched the engine, using 0W30 Series 2000.

 

[RProvost]

Breed

Two things you should think about doing:



1] For your own peace of mind do the KDP fix and



2] Replace section of fuel return line from injection pump back toward tank. That way YOU can pick time to replace it not have IT pick the time [like middle of winter]. Mine went in March a couple years ago, I'd already got the kit from Larry and it'd been sitting in the garage for months. After removing old section of hose and seeing all the cracks in it I thanked God it had not started leaking on trip to NC I'd taken two months earlier. What a difference in quality of hose Larry gives you and OEM.



Rich P

 

[CumminsPower98]

Since you asked, I am dead set against Amsoil. I used to own a shop, doing major repairs on engines etc. Business was good from Amsoil users, including the local dealer. His Ford gasser V8 was total trash in 40k miles, and were others as well. I feel the same as Cummins, leave it at the dealers location, and use what is recommended.

Interesting view but I don't buy it for myself as Amsoil is working fine and my truck proves it. There is no way Amsoil could have caused the Ford to die in 40k IMO, it probably would have done the same with any oil.

I have been using Amsoil bumper to bumper for 320k miles. The truck now has a total of 387k and is running great with no failures relating to lubrication. I run 50k plus miles on engine oil drains with bypass filtration and 100k on the trany, t-case and rear end. At least that's what I was doing when running OTR towing about 45% of those miles but I just stopped. I have inspected gears, magnets and oil when it comes out and see very little wear. I usually have a hard time throwing the oil away it looks so clear still.

Anyway Breed, I say use it if you like it. It works for me and many others.

 

[Breed]

Hey Guys, thats for the information, I really appreciate it. Love the truck.

 

[arthr31]

OK, I'll provide the alternative view.

I have stopped using amsoil 15w-40 just 1k miles ago. I started using amsoil at 106k and have since stopped at 122k. My truck doesn't like it, or doesn't seem like it can live through extended drains. Best thing to do is an oil analysis half way though you run period (before drain) and see what the results are.

In my particular case, it was recommended not to run more than 7500 miles because of ring depletion. All setups will be different so you'll have to make some decisions about what is best for you.

I use blackstone labratories for my analysis. Check them out on the web.

 

[Moparsean]

breed,I run it in my truck,i have 438k now and no issues (bumper to bumper). I also run it in my wife's van,my drag car,motorcycle ect. Even in my lawnmower. Its good stuff. I think where the issue lies is when its added to a sludgey engine. It tends to clean well. I run mine in my 12 valve a whole year. Do use oil samples to see how its doing,then make a call on how long it will safely go.

 

[MMeier]

I wouldn't necessarily change what oil you're using, but you'd be advised to do an oil analysis at 6 months if you're going to run a year. That way you know what's going on, especially since you should still be in your 100,000 mile engine warranty.

I don't believe a 10 year old truck is under warranty anymore.

 

[DJW]

In one of the posts I read, 'by plugging the filter and preventing oil from lubricating the engine', I read one time that if the oil filter gets clogged up, a relief valve opens to allow oil to flow, plus the fact, that often the oil filter cannot keep up with the flow of oil, so often the engine is running on UNFILTERED OIL, so this 100% oil flow through the filter is a thought hatched in Heaven. All the engine rebuilders I ever asked over the years, of the best oil to use in an engine, (incidently the First Question anyone asks an engine rebuilder when being introduced to one) the reply has always been, "Use any good oil, (meaning well known brands) change oil and filters at manufacturer's recomendation. Incidentally I had a 1962 600cc BMW M/Cycle a Sports model, at 100,000 plus miles I burned a piston in it, the oil filtering system was by centrifuge, (a disc on the crankshaft) on stripping the engine down, there was just a trace of crud,not enough to soil a cloth. That was the sole means of oil filtration, the owner's manual said it needed no servicing untill engine rebuilding, then to be cleaned. Since then I've often thought of the claims of oils and filters. An air cooled engine without the advantages of controlled temperatures of liquid cooling, 600 mile days in the Summer, Sinaloa Desert, cold temperatures in and over the Sierras, Winter and Summer Commute 108 miles daily, all on a Centifruge Oil Filter. (Bonus- no Cost, no Mess and no Disposal) "I bet I have a Better Filter than yours," or should that be Bigger? Oil Wars Filter Wars, will there be No End?

 

[AKaiser]

I don't believe a 10 year old truck is under warranty anymore.

Good point. Regardless, I'd still pull samples at the halfway point for reference.

 

[MMeier]

No problem... I haven't done an analysis in about 100k now, maybe I will this next change coming up. Been running the 'A' stuff for about 160k now.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

What a difference in quality of hose Larry gives you and OEM.



Rich P

I'd be hesitant ordering hose from Lary. Especially if you gave him negitive feedback at the DTR. Very unstable.

 

[DonTX]

In all fairness to my comments, that was back in the 70's. The engines were so plugged with sludge they either starved for oil from screens plugged up on oil filters, or other oil circulation failures. You are wrong to assume that they would have all failed with any kind of oil, the dino oil people did not have those problems.

I am sure lots has been done since then, one thing I see here is that higher mileage engines are discouraged from changing to Amsoil type products because of that sort of problems. We who saw that back then will never be convinced to use something that Cummins don't like us to use and has caused such failures. Why gamble when there are plenty of recommended lubricants available is our feeling (at far lower prices too). Kinda like old dogs not learning new tricks I guess.

Interesting view but I don't buy it for myself as Amsoil is working fine and my truck proves it. There is no way Amsoil could have caused the Ford to die in 40k IMO, it probably would have done the same with any oil.



I have been using Amsoil bumper to bumper for 320k miles. The truck now has a total of 387k and is running great with no failures relating to lubrication. I run 50k plus miles on engine oil drains with bypass filtration and 100k on the trany, t-case and rear end. At least that's what I was doing when running OTR towing about 45% of those miles but I just stopped. I have inspected gears, magnets and oil when it comes out and see very little wear. I usually have a hard time throwing the oil away it looks so clear still.



Anyway Breed, I say use it if you like it. It works for me and many others.

 

[CumminsPower98]

In all fairness to my comments, that was back in the 70's. The engines were so plugged with sludge they either starved for oil from screens plugged up on oil filters, or other oil circulation failures. You are wrong to assume that they would have all failed with any kind of oil, the dino oil people did not have those problems.
I am sure lots has been done since then, one thing I see here is that higher mileage engines are discouraged from changing to Amsoil type products because of that sort of problems. We who saw that back then will never be convinced to use something that Cummins don't like us to use and has caused such failures. Why gamble when there are plenty of recommended lubricants available is our feeling (at far lower prices too). Kinda like old dogs not learning new tricks I guess.

I see your point if Amsoil was put into an older already dirty engine. My point was that I don't see how Amsoil would could cause a healthy engine to die.

I once rebuilt a '96 Ford 460 that had a BAD sludge problem (never seen anything like it and I have been into a lot of engines). I don't know what the first owner did but the next guy came along and seeing all the build up through the oil filler hole decided to run some ATF. Well it broke so much loose that it would loose oil pressure in about 15 minutes as the screen would plug up. Some would then fall off when it was shut down and it would do the same thing again.

Anyway I'm not trying to start any wars. It works for me and that's all that matters.