Looking for help...

[Rhinohd]

Hey Folks I just bought a new toy hauler. I need help getting the truck set up right (for a better ride). I just did 150 miles this weekend and it was a bear to keep it in it's lane. Here is my setup now.



04. 5 2500

AFE II

Smarty (running #3 when towing)

285\70\r17 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors D rated with a 3100lb weight rating.

The rest is stock.



Trailer

N-Tense N260 26' max max weight 11,000 (loaded and I am there)

Robin Sway Control

Robin Trunnion Bar Weight Distribution Hitch

Prodigy Brake Controler



My truck with trailer, passengers, full of Diesel, 60 gals of gas (in the trailer), 2 large quads, and 126 gallons of water comes in at 19,040 lbs.



I want to go to E tires and was thinking of 285 Toyos but am open to recommendations.

I am also considering getting airbags.



Any help making my traveling more comfortable would be great!



Oh year here is a picture...

 

[ScottLewis]

You need to run across a scales to determine your load balance. Even with the equalizer hitch, you need about 10% hitch weight or a bit more. Without weighing each axle, you don't know how much weight you have where. My 28ft. pull trailer RV was tongue heavy and I always had trouble with sway, even with sway bars. Too light on the tongue can be just as bad. The 5er is much better.



Dan

 

[GAmes]

Please elaborate on your problem. Sway all the time or just when being passed? Light front end? Hard ride? Have you weighed front and rear axles when empty, then loaded? I'm not familiar with a Robin sway control. Is it a friction type?

 

[Rhinohd]

Yes the robin is a friction type. The issue is a light front end and the truck not wanting to stay straight. All the time, not just when being passed.



Here are my weights. .



Truck only

steer 4760

drive 3100

total 7860



Empty

steer 4400

drive 4760

trailer 6540

total 15680



loaded

steer 4620

drive 5020

trailer 9400

total 19040

 

[GAmes]

I'm sure this comes as no shock to you but there is clearly way too much weight on the rear of your truck. 10 to 12% of the trailer weight should be on the hitch (1100 to 1340 or so) and you have nearly 2000 at the drive axle. I'm surprised your receiver hasn't failed. You need to lose weight forward of the trailer wheels, and I'm guessing that is where your fresh water storage is. Positioning the quads as far to the rear and moving stored items from the front to the rear would help, plus dumping about 50 gallons of water if the tank is forward of the axles. Adding air bags might level the truck, but it won't solve your handling issue.

 

[Rhinohd]

The quads are as far back as they can be. What is the max my receiver can handle? I hope I can slide the axles forward. I did dump the fresh water before I left camp but didn't get a weight...

 

[EricBu12]

Rhino

That is too heavy on the drives... I had a heavy TT before and I got the hensley Hitch... Yes it is expensive but it was able to carry the weight pretty well and there is NO sway as it has a unique design for when you go straight down the road. I would get that hitch again. . If your water is up front, I would use like 1/2 to 2/3 water on a weekend. . This will save a little weight

Hensley Arrow - Trailer Towing Safety

The way the Hensley adjusts weight is by screw jacks. . you adjust it with the weight off the truck then lower the trailer on the truck... . If you don't have one yet, I would recommend to get a class 5 receiver with a 2" opening.

 

[Rhinohd]

Wow 3k for a hitch... This is starting to get disheartening. .

 

[GAmes]

According to this site the hitch is rated for 12,000 tlr weight/1200 tonge wt with WD

Dodge Ram Hitch Receiver



Disregard the "Class V" or what ever classification. There is no industry standard for classifications. Every manufacturer includes different wt ratings in their particular "class". Instead look at the wt rating itself.



At any rate, you need to unload that hitch before your next trip, for your safety and the safety of others.

 

[Rhinohd]

So how do I figure out TW? Is it as simple as subtracting drive weight on truck only from the loaded drive weight???

 

[GAmes]

Your tlr wt as posted is 19040-7860=11180 minus whatever you loaded into the pick up to achieve your "loaded" weight. You are within that rating. However, you are way over the hitch rating if the 1920 added pounds on the drive axle is from the tongue wt of the tlr. If some of that 1920 is from stuff loaded into the bed you are still shifting too much wt off the steer axle. Somewhere I have seen a method of weighing the tongue using a bathroom scale, a brick and a board that will at least put you in the ball park.

 

[Ragain]

RHINOHD... ... Bumper pull toybox TT's are notoriously squirrely. I noticed your hooked-up fully loaded axle weights show a gain of 1900# on drives with a loss of 200# on steers. I would try heavier equalizer bars first & try to get more of that tongue weight transferred further towards your steer axle. (this may scale a 300# GAIN on trailer axles, a 600# LOSS of weight @ drive axle, & a 300~400# GAIN on you steer axle from your current laden weights)

 

[Rhinohd]

I just got back from Masterhitch. The guys there seem to know their stuff. They were kind enough to let me use (take home over night) a scale for measuring tongue weight. I come in at 1200# loaded. He recommended I do like Ragain said and get a beefier equalizer bars.



He also recommended I get a new hitch to be on the safe side. The only issue was he said it would mount under my present hitch. So I would have 2 receivers sticking out. He claims the stock one is welded to a cross member and not mounted to the frame. The new ones mount to the frame and come out under the old one. I was in my work close so I did get under there to see. Once I get home it's time to get the creeper out.



So does anyone know what this guy was talking about as far as a new hitch mounting under the old one?

 

[DCreed]

what do you haul in the back of that thing? be sure to take measurements with/without that load . also try reversing that toy to move its center of balance to adjust yours. be cautious with those bars ,too much torque on the tongue may tear it off as well.

 

[Rhinohd]

Just a pair of full size atvs. About 1200lbs worth. Not sure if backing them in woudl make that big a diffrence.

 

[GAmes]

He recommended I do like Ragain said and get a beefier equalizer bars.



So does anyone know what this guy was talking about as far as a new hitch mounting under the old one?

I thought of that but it will probably really beat you up.



On this site or perhaps RV. Net there was a post about the third gen hitch. From memory, it is bolted to the bumper or maybe a bumper brace? At any rate, it is possible to remove it and install an regular after market hitch. The thing is, if your hitch wt is really 1200 you don't need one. Do you load a lot of stuff into the bed of your truck that makes it so rear heavy?

 

[Rhinohd]

I thought of that but it will probably really beat you up.



On this site or perhaps RV. Net there was a post about the third gen hitch. From memory, it is bolted to the bumper or maybe a bumper brace? At any rate, it is possible to remove it and install an regular after market hitch. The thing is, if your hitch wt is really 1200 you don't need one. Do you load a lot of stuff into the bed of your truck that makes it so rear heavy?

Nope nothing in the bed. Well not yet. I plan on buying a kiddie quad so that will go in the bed. But I don't think they weight enough to worry about it...



I will looking the hitch deal. If I ever decide to take it without the quads I will need it...

 

[JoeDiesel]

If you are considering a class V "receiver", you should look at the "Putnam XDR" part #25211. I just installed it on my truck and it fit perfect. The factory class IV receiver is welded to the rear most cross member of the truck. The cross member is bolted to the frame. You could us a plasma cutter to lop off the receiver tube and leave the cross member installed if you want too. That is the easy way out. The Putnam bolts up to the frame and puts the receiver tube in almost the exact same position as the factory one. (about 7/8 of an inch lower). It is a REALLY strong class V receiver. I wanted a cleaner look so I got a used rear cross member and primed and painted it. Took out the old one and had to remove 4 bolts from the bed and lift it 3". Not so hard, I did most of it myself but I took my time and my son helped just to hand me tools. I also HIGHLY recommend the Hensley. At the weight that you are towing, you’ll need it. Forget the cost, a wreck is much more expensive. IMHO Joe.

 

[GAmes]

So what weights does Putnam rate your "class V" receiver. Is it 2 1/2 inch?

 

[Rhinohd]

Joe where did you find the used cross member?



from the putnam site...

Class V – The XDR – Xtra Duty Receiver - the heaviest rated 2" receiver hitch in the industry. The XDR Series Class V receiver hitches can handle the BIG loads... up to 15,000 pounds with 16,000 pound weight distribution and tongue weights up to 1,600 pounds. (As part of the XDR Series, we have produced a complete line of accessories including ball mounts and pintle mounts to help you maximize your towing system. ) The XDR is made for only the toughest SUV’s and pickup trucks on the market today.



* 2" Square Receiver Tube, 5/16 " End Plate, 1/4 " Maintube

* Up to 15,000# Weight Carrying MGTW

* Up to 16,000# Weight Distribution MGTW

* "No Drill" applications available

* Polyshield Finish

* Includes a complete line of accessories