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cam and crank codes any ideas

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after a full build again i have a another problem. i am getting 2 codes a p0341 cam performance and a p0336 crank performance code. the truck seems to run fine till you hammer down it surges and feels as if it is lack of fuel but doesn't seem to be that pressures good on pickup and rail. any ideas or anyone have one of these codes on there truck before please let me know.
 
sold my tst for that sole fact check engine light stayed on and the truck stumbled badly alot!! but since you dont have a tst dont know what to tell ya expect might be in a added chip
 
after a full build again i have a another problem. i am getting 2 codes a p0341 cam performance and a p0336 crank performance code. the truck seems to run fine till you hammer down it surges and feels as if it is lack of fuel but doesn't seem to be that pressures good on pickup and rail. any ideas or anyone have one of these codes on there truck before please let me know.



What do you call good pressure...
 
Tst is infamous for p0036, and I saw it on a regular basis with the banks 6-gun. Rail pressure shouldn't have any effect on those timeing codes, but I have been wrong before. I would look at your aftermarket electronics first, in particular whatever is advancing timeing. Second I would look at the cam and crank sensors. It is sort of odd that you are throwing the codes under hard throttle, usually the p0036 happens at light throttle and about 1100rpm, at least on my truck and a few others I am familiar with.
 
thanks all but it ended up being a loose harmonic balancer and after a lot of work i got her back and runing strong. ( retap the crank broke the bolt off wow what a job) it is just amazing how much that had to do with the trucks performance what a difference it makes with proper timeing.
 
thanks all but it ended up being a loose harmonic balancer and after a lot of work i got her back and runing strong. ( retap the crank broke the bolt off wow what a job) it is just amazing how much that had to do with the trucks performance what a difference it makes with proper timeing.



Those crank bolts should be replaced every time you remove the balancer.

They are "torque to yield" meaning they stretch permanently when you tighten them the final 90 degrees, and will break if you try to reuse them.

You should use the same grade and diameter, to give you the proper clamping force.
 
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