Here I am

Group Purchase on Fluidampr Harmonic Balancers

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

programmers

DTT Trans Enhancer

I can't believe it took 4+ months to build a bracket that simple. :rolleyes:



I still have not got mine after at least 3 promises that I would have it in X number of weeks, the last being at IRP where they said I would have a bracket in 2 weeks. :mad: #@$%!
 
Put one on my 1st gen

I bought one from EEP also since Fluiddampr was dragging their feet.

After pinning the crank, I tried to install the magnetic sensor w/ the relocation bracket but it does not work with a 1st gen sensor. The sensor either would not go on or it was too far away, so I redrilled and tapped the holes to make it fit. Next I tried to put the fan on and it hits the Fluiddampr. My stock damper is about 2" thick; the new one 2. 5". So I bent the fins a little and finished the install.

Now I have a new problem; with the exception of the first five minutes after startup my clutch fan stays on 98 % of the time. The clutch seems fine and so are my temperatures. I did not think by bending them a little would bother it. Any Ideas?

Anyway, I will probably get a fan hub from a 96 or 97 since to my understanding they are about a 1/2" longer then get a different fan. Hopefully this will stop it from full time engagement.

First genners beware; it will fit with slight modification.

Kurt
 
Update for 1st gens;

To clear the new damper you wil need a new Mopar fan ($75) and a Napa or Carquest fan clutch ($75) for the intercooled 1st gens. When used together the new fan and clutch are a bit longer to clear the damper.

Kurt
 
Bill. .

If you ordered your when Doug did the group buy,call him as he probably has recieved the parts for the ones he sold by now. Brad's was shipped direct from Fluidampr after a few dozen calls made to them by himself,me and Doug. Let me know via email or PM if I can help you on it. I'll PM you a way to reach me... ... . Andy



On Edit. .

HarrisC. .

While just about anything nowadays will "void" a factory warranty,I would talk to my dealerships service writer if your worried about this install and your warranty. This way they have a working knowledge of your truck and know what a great product this is but do not fret when they look at you all puzzled as most people do associate Fluidampr with performance engines.
 
Last edited:
Eventhough it is - ?not? - recommended to do the Fluidampr with the RASP I did mine anyway. It is very close fit, but it does fit.



The close fits are:



The Fluidampr hub is thicker which pushes the RASP drive pulley more toward the fan blades. I pushed my RASP drive pulley as far onto the hub shaft as I could and still get the hex key in there to tighten the set screws. The clearance between the fan blades (engine not running) and the RASP drive pulley is about 3/16". I checked every blade and measured every blade clearance. I would think the fan blade would pull more toward the front of the truck with the engine running or the fan clutch engaged (PLEASE correct me if this is not the case) and the fan pulling air through the radiator etc which would increase the drive pulley and fan blade clearance slightly more.



My 1st edition RASP had developed a leak at the seal and DTT had sent me a 3rd edition RASP (which is a little longer in the pump casting, much better support for the shaft and has a sealed bushing). The RASP pulley fit fine on the new RASP shaft - but - the alignment of the cog belt is not perfectly straight because of the rubber fill plug on the Fluidampr sticks out about "1/16" beyond the physical frame of the Fluidampr. I wanted the belt to clear the plug so there would not be any issues there.



So the exact alignment of the belt is not exact. There is supposed to be about 1/2" play on both sides of the direct line between the drive pulley and the driven pulley so the cogs do the actual drive and the belt is not really pulling anything. With the not quite exact alignment and the necessary loseness of the cog belt there seems to not be any problem with mechanical interferance. Close - yes, interference - no.



Disclaimer - I do not do WOT's and generally allow the entire engine / drive system to accelerate normally (to me). If you horsed the engine around, and did not keep an eye on the belt tension (loseness) I can see where the belt could maybe might be able to get over the pulley shoulder which would render the cogs ineffective and the RASP would not be driven. I also generally do not go over about 2400 rpm, and if you went up into the 3000's + you could induce centripical force on the belt that could put more outward forces on the belt that could force it over the pulley flange.



However, works for me,



Bob Weis



Oh, $$, a little over $415 and I paid the shipping.
 
Back
Top