43K and needs u-joints and front drive shaft

[WStephens]

I was heading back to PA from WY yesterday and had a vibration, when I stopped for fuel and a room last night I checked the front drive shaft and found the cardgen joint was loose. Took in this afternoon to the local Dodge Dealer and the front cargen joint was broken from lack of lubrication and there were not any grease fittings at all. They also found the rear u-joint on the rear drive shaft was going bad and the pinon seal for the front diff was leaking and will have all the parts tomorrow and I will be back on the road.



Tried to attached the photo but even the PDF is to large.

 

[JApol]

All my driveshaft u-joints went out at about the same mileage as yours. If you don't do a lot of time in 4x4 you can remove the front shaft and it will lessen vibration and may increase mileage as it reduces spinning mass.

 

[PBrauer]

That front U-joint on the front prop shaft does require "manual" lubrication, according to the manual. You can get a greasable replacement at Napa for $14. The rest of your U-joints are unpredictable at best, especially on your front axles. Beware that some greasable replacements, even if listed for your application, may not fit (the body) into the yokes on the front axles. My front pinion seal was one of the only things I actually managed to get fixed under warranty... at about 40K or so.

 

[WStephens]

They are covering everything under my extended drive train warranty.

 

[HighRanger]

Around the same milage I lost and entire rear ds, and the left front axle shaft. They denied my warranty due to edge box and a few other goodies including the fass.

 

[jdbecker2]

This is not good news, mine has got 36,xxx on the clock... No more warranty. . All I can do is keep that front driveshaft lubed I guess I like the idea of just taking it out, drive around with it in the rear seat with some wrenches

 

[Edgemann55]

Seems like it is hit and miss with the 3rd gen trucks with ball joints and U joints. I have 45,000 miles on my 05 with no problems. My buddy has a 06 that he pulls 15,000 lb generators with and just turned over 100,000 miles with no problems on anything so far. All he has done is change oil and filter,fuel filters,one set of tires and still on original brake pads with a few miles left in them. We buy the Cummins the Dodge just comes with it.

 

[HighRanger]

We buy the Cummins the Dodge just comes with it.

That is the best line I have seen yet.

 

[05mxdiesel]

I replaced all three u-joints in the rear at 48k, only 1 was bad due to no grease in the caps. I bought all 8 u-joints at one time from rock auto which are precisions and greasable and much cheaper than the dodge factory crap. Front diff seal replaced at 35k.

 

[tcalz06]

I replaced all three u-joints in the rear at 48k, only 1 was bad due to no grease in the caps. I bought all 8 u-joints at one time from rock auto which are precisions and greasable and much cheaper than the dodge factory crap. Front diff seal replaced at 35k.

I'm new to these trucks but my 03 4x4 ram 1500 never had any of these problems and it now has 102,000.



I also have a 06 2500 4x4 with a 4. 5" lift. Where are all these U joints?

I thought each drive shaft only had one U joint at each end.

My 06 only has 22k on it but from the posts in this thread I think I need to change out the U joints now

 

[LaxCummins]

Just had a rear d/s u joint replaced. 2 weeks later, had to get a front axle u joint replaced.



I'll echo the comment about why I bought a Dodge. Stupid stuff like this sure makes me wonder what good a Cummins is if the truck around it falls apart.



This was at around 54,000 miles. Thank goodness for the deductible or I'd have to do the work myself and actually install quality products but since I needed a trans flush, etc. I took it in.



LAXCummins

 

[TCluff]

I HAVE LOST SEVERAL U-JOINTS AND EVEN TAKE THEM APART WHEN THEY ARE NEW AND THERE IS VERY LITTLE GREASE IN THEM, I DONT RUN GREASABLE JOINTS JUST BECAUSE THEY ARE EASY FOR ME TO BREAK ON THE 03, I HAD A CUSTOM DRIVELINE MADE FOR THE FRONT AND ALL I WAS BREAKING WAS AXLE U-JOINTS AND SHAFTS, BUT NOW IT IS TOAST TOO, IM GOING TO LEAVE IT OFF FOR AWHILE UNTILL I FIGURE SUSPENSION ANGLES FOR THE LIFT I AM INSTALLING, CANT DECIDE IF I WANT TO CLOCK THE DIFF HOUSING, LEAVING THE AXLE TUBES STRAIGHT SO THE STEERING IS LIKE FACTORY, OR IF I WILL CLOCK THE TRANSFER CASE, NOT SURE IF THE LIFT WILL BE 8 OR 10 INCH, I KNOW YOU GUYS THINK ITS IMPRACTICAL, BUT ITS A TOY AND YOU CAN ALWAYS TAKE LIFT OFF...

 

[05mxdiesel]

I'm new to these trucks but my 03 4x4 ram 1500 never had any of these problems and it now has 102,000.



I also have a 06 2500 4x4 with a 4. 5" lift. Where are all these U joints?

I thought each drive shaft only had one U joint at each end.

My 06 only has 22k on it but from the posts in this thread I think I need to change out the U joints now

Two in front axle shafts, Two in front driveshaft in the cardan joint, one at front of the front d/s, three in the rear d/s of a long bed. Short bed has only two in the rear d/s but everything else is the same.

 

[bb218]

Does anyone use locking hubs and if so would that stop the componts from rotating when not in use? Mike

 

[WStephens]

no I do not have free wheeling hubs and know that if I had it would have enabled me to keep driving home. but I have an extended power train warrenty which is cheaper than a buying the kit. But if I had not stopped and kept going I risked distroying the transfer case.

 

[brods]

Between 40k and 45k the rear pumpkin ujoint and both front wheel ujoints started binding due to lack of lube. Boy am I glad AAM saved that . 0001 cent on each joint by short filling the grease!#@$%!



Mike, on the newer trucks the hub kits allow the wheels to turn without the axle shafts and drive shaft turning. If you are thinking of getting locking hubs, do a search there are a few threads on them. PM me before you buy and I'll tell you about my hub install issues.