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Rotor Question

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When the time comes to do brakes on my 05, would it be better to replace the rotors with slotted or just have the stocks resurfaced?

Who carries rotors for our trucks?

Thanks.
 
Unless you intend to use a very high performance friction and need the cooling of slotted rotors... than I'd just check mine and either reuse them if they test ok with a dial indicator or machine them as necessary... understanding that there is a minimum thickness for the rotor...
 
Well here it's 7 bucks to have a rotor turned, as opposed to around $85 for each new rotor. I'm going down this road this week, and hopefully, my rotors will have enough meat left to turn.



Blake
 
I'm sure mine had enough metal left that it would have been OK to turn, but I had to pound the crap out of it to get it off. $65 for a Chinese rotor.
 
When the time comes to do brakes on my 05, would it be better to replace the rotors with slotted or just have the stocks resurfaced?

Who carries rotors for our trucks?

Thanks.

New ones aren't very expensive but turning them is certainly cheaper. If you have them turned try to have it done with a machine that does both sides (of one rotor) at the same time. It reduces the chances of warping on thick, HD rotors. I'd also ask them to do two shallow passes vs. one deep cut if they are worn deep.



The nicest thing about new rotors is not having to turn them and thus not having to worry about warpage following a crappy job on the machine. If they are warped AT ALL when the time comes, get new ones... they will re-warp no matter how well or how many times you turn them. Stock rotors are more than good enough for 99% of what you will ever do with the truck. 220K on mine w/maybe a 1-2 mm groove... and I'm a transporter.



If you do them yourself, having new ones sitting there saves the hassle of running back and forth to a shop while the truck's in the air... worth considering.
 
What I have done in the past is to replace rotors the first time, and save the old ones. When it's time for pads the next time, I have the old ones turned and put those back on.

I'm closer to town, have an extra truck and trying to be less of a packrat, so I'll probaly just turn the originals. (I guess a whole extra truck bashes the less of a packrat theme :-laf)
 
What I have done in the past is to replace rotors the first time, and save the old ones. When it's time for pads the next time, I have the old ones turned and put those back on.



I'm closer to town, have an extra truck and trying to be less of a packrat, so I'll probaly just turn the originals. (I guess a whole extra truck bashes the less of a packrat theme :-laf)



LOL... I'm just wondering if there's an H2 running around out there w/ '94 dodge wheels... and '03 stock tires, of course...
 
Well I got my old rear rotors off tonight. Quite a job! The stupid things are a tight fit all the way as there is no clearance between the flange and the inside of the rotor. One of the emergency brakes has no lining left at all.

There's about 1/8" of scale on the outside face of one rotor, so I don't know if they'll be able to turn them or not.

Cattletrkr... where did you get your rotors for that price?

Around here the prices are about $70 for cheaper fronts and $76 for better fronts. Rears are 76 for cheaper and 92 for better. I bet they're all made in communist red china by 8 years olds though.

Does it pay to get better ones?

Thanks,
Blake
 
I've been through several sets of pads @ 350,000 miles, and I've never had my rotors off. No issues with pulling or pulsating either.
 
I've been through several sets of pads @ 350,000 miles, and I've never had my rotors off. No issues with pulling or pulsating either.



My rear pads are still about 1/4" thick and would last for many more years. But the rotors are all rust, with 1/8" of scale on the friction surfaces. Only a little over 80,000 miles on the truck.



Our problem around here is a combination of damp humid air through a good part of the year, and lots and lots of road salt in the winter. It really takes a toll on everything made out of steel.



I changed my first front axle joint when the truck was less than two years old and everything up there was so rusty then that I could hardly get it apart. It certainly would have helped if they had put some paint on the underbelly parts of the truck!!:mad:



Blake
 
Well my rotors were too far gone to turn. The scale that came off was just too thick. I got a set for $88 each, plus 50 bucks for Wagner pads and about 35 bucks for parking brake shoes. I got part of it back together tonight. The fronts will be next, so hope they are not as bad and can be just turned.
 
My rear pads are still about 1/4" thick and would last for many more years. But the rotors are all rust, with 1/8" of scale on the friction surfaces. Only a little over 80,000 miles on the truck.



Blake

Scale on the friction surface?



I don't understand how this can happen?
 
My front pads still have about 40% at 69,000 miles.



Unless the rotors are too thin I am not going to touch them. The truck still stops as smooth as the day I picked it up.
 
Scale on the friction surface?



I don't understand how this can happen?



Yes. They build up a layer of rust on the friction surface. Since the rust is harder than the steel and swells out beyond the steel surface, it wears a groove in the pad. If you take a hammer and knock it off, it will come off about 1/8" thick and will leave a rusty rough surface.



Wow, I see the avatars are back... and the picture is of my OLD truck.



Blake
 
Rear calipers stuck and not doing anything. Mine were working but not quite right. If his rotors are rusty on the braking surface, he has/had no rear brakes.



No, the rear brakes have been working fine. The rusty scale is all shiny smooth from the friction of the pads. The scale is tight to the rotor, but if you take a hammer and tap on it, it comes off in sheets.



Blake
 
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