Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Youngin got wrong truck...

[Champane Flight]

G-son got a Ford salesman to help him get a CTD, so Ford boy hooks him up with a 98. 5 24 valve, instead of what I told him to get (96-12 valve). Oh by the way Ford boy is my son... ... So what to do now? The youngin wants some more horses, says it does not run as good as my 95 (no supprize there). What can I do to get some quick power out of this over valved engine?



Darn, I would have much rather had the boy turn out to be a pimp than a Ford salesman...

 

[MRiley]

First, fuel pressure. Check the fuel pressure make sure the lift pump is solid. Second, Pipe. Go to a 4 inch set. It will not increase power that much but the turbo will spool faster and the truck will perform much better. Last, chip, Smarty, comp, what ever you like. I like the smarty my truck is like a new machine with it. Those are the easiest mods. Could also do injectors and keep going from there. The 24v is a good engine just a lot more computer controled than your 12v.

 

[BDanner]

Fuel pressure gauge is a must have item on the second generation. VP44 is pretty expensive to replace when the lift pump acts up.

I sold Fiat, Peugeot and Saab in the 1980's, but I never would have owned one. Had to start at the "bottom". Then move on with your refined skills.

Sounds like you got a smart Youngin there getting some great experience. In 2-3 months he will have sold more vehicles than most individuals purchase in their lifetime.

 

[Champane Flight]

Pressure

First, fuel pressure. Check the fuel pressure make sure the lift pump is solid. Second, Pipe. Go to a 4 inch set. It will not increase power that much but the turbo will spool faster and the truck will perform much better. Last, chip, Smarty, comp, what ever you like. I like the smarty my truck is like a new machine with it. Those are the easiest mods. Could also do injectors and keep going from there. The 24v is a good engine just a lot more computer controled than your 12v.

What kind of pressure are we talking? Do you tap in at the filter, or at the pump?



The kid has been selling Pfords for a long time now, done quite well for a person with a masters in history... If he was teaching he could only make five digits, he is in the sixes now...

 

[jkalchik]

There are a pair of test ports on top of the fuel filter housing, one pre- and one post-filter. I used a grease gun hose and remote mounted an electric sender on mine.

Ideally 15psi, if it's below 11psi, replace the lift pump now.

Yes, VP44s are expensive, I had to replace mine around Labor Day.

 

[MRiley]

There are a pair of test ports on top of the fuel filter housing, one pre- and one post-filter. I used a grease gun hose and remote mounted an electric sender on mine.



Ideally 15psi, if it's below 11psi, replace the lift pump now.

My gauges are hooked in the same place. I highly recommend a fuel pressure gauge.



The listed pressures are at idle, 15 psi and I don't like to see any thing lower than about 8 WOT. I think Dodge said 6 Wot was ok, but it's just to low for me. Also remember the VP is sensitive so more is not necessarily better. Too much pressure can have ill effects as well.



As stated the VP is one really expensive pump and the longer you can keep it happy the better.

 

[DNewell]

Yup. get FP gauges and also an EGT gauge, especially if a chip is put on. Even with stock squirters and a chip, the EGT's can get up there. The more I learn, the more I think that I should have found a 12v truck. Better fuel economy than a 24v and way more reliable. The 24v trucks were reported to have more power, but since I don't have any seat time in a 12v, I can't say for sure.

 

[telliott]

i would also reccommend an after market lift pump system too. way more reliable than the factory system. If your planning on doing much modifications, i think you would be better off with a better system. I am happy with my glacier system, but i think all of them are good products.

 

[dnesbitt3]

they left out a few tidbits above... .



1) If you mod it then be prepared for a new torque converter and transmission in short order...



2) with 3. 54 rear gear, 2WD, Edge Comp on 1 x 1, 4" turbo back exhaust I get 21-23 mpg on the highway (as long as I stay below 75 mph)... at 60 mph I get 24. 4 on a regular basis (hand calculated - don't beleive the overhead computer it lies).



3) Put the guages on first..... in 300K miles I've bought 2 VP44's - first one my fault - lift pumps and fuel pressure were foreign to me. 2nd VP44 - who knows... . it just puked one night outside of Atlanta... .



Peace,

Don<><

 

[AFoulk]

He could always convert it to a p-pump too

 

[Champane Flight]

Thanks to all

I don't think the kid is going to have the funds to go P-pump, so a box, gauges and exhaust are going to have to be the ticket. He is not looking for a hot rod, just something to do some real life pullin. It is a NV4500 transmission, so the only worry is the clutch, unless we go crazy. . Of course he will want me to do all the work, this time I think I will supervise. .

 

[jkalchik]

I don't think the kid is going to have the funds to go P-pump, so a box, gauges and exhaust are going to have to be the ticket. He is not looking for a hot rod, just something to do some real life pullin. It is a NV4500 transmission, so the only worry is the clutch, unless we go crazy. . Of course he will want me to do all the work, this time I think I will supervise. .

Wrong order..... gauges first.

 

[Champane Flight]

Same time...

Wrong order..... gauges first.

The whole thing will be at the same time. . Will check pressure first.

 

[Cummins724]

98. 5 models were 53 block candidates... . better check it before going too wild.

 

[CHornsby]

98. 5 models were 53 block candidates... . better check it before going too wild.

X2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Check for the 53 block.



I've got the 53 block and personally I'm not worried, but for some reason I've read FEWER people with newer 53's cracking than say the 98ish trucks. It's all a "luck of the draw" sort of thing, IMO.



For the 4500 transmission, watch out for the 5th gear nut falling off. They've got a fix out there for it, however when he's going down the road and finds that 5th gear just "went away" don't worry too much. An afternoon and a few bux will fix that.

 

[CHornsby]

I guess to answer your question though, intake/exhaust/sticks/clutch/box. That should put a smile on his face!

 

[MarkMiller]

Start with an aftermarket lift pump setup. I went FASS. Gives you a big filter and water/air separator and opens up the engine compartment. If you get the water and air out of the fuel you get a lot more predictable engine runs. A fuel pressure light or gauge is a good idea because it can also tell you when it is time to replace your fuel filter. After that, air in and exhaust out, good filter and big exhaust.

Stacking boxes can be done but must be done wisely. I run an Edge EZ set at mid level and when I am in the mood I flip on the TST PM3 to lay the smack down. Or you can go to a box like the Edge Comp that is really smooth and does both timing (edge EZ) and fueling (TST3). the TST has some surge issues when you are just cruising so it really is only for the brief runs.

 

[lcaad1249]

I like the Edge Juice/Attitude on 2nd gen 24 valves. Plus its already got the FP gauge along with every other gauge you need and then some. Plus with the gauges are alarms. Instead of just the gauge reading low it will chirp at you along with taking over the screen to warn you.

 

[Hendricks]

I would deffinatly second the juice with attitude first. I dont have one but just intalled one on a co workers truck. Very complete setup and a general "all in one package.

 

[obert]

Yup. get FP gauges and also an EGT gauge, especially if a chip is put on. Even with stock squirters and a chip, the EGT's can get up there. The more I learn, the more I think that I should have found a 12v truck. Better fuel economy than a 24v and way more reliable. The 24v trucks were reported to have more power, but since I don't have any seat time in a 12v, I can't say for sure.

:-laf after 4 LP's and a VP, I know what ya mean! "grass is always greener", huh, isn't it! 12v costs way less to start modding, lots of free little adjustments to do that make life more fun. Just a $$$$ plug in on the 24V.



BUT, the 24v has a tourque curve that just cant be beat. Having drove both 12/24, loaded/unloaded, modded/unmodded, I really like that "flat tourqe curve" that runs almost the full sweep of the tach. On the dyno, any engine (even the V8's) can post big numbers with lots of RPM, but its nice to have some pull at 1700rpm on the freeway. Or 1900, or 2100... ...

With a trailer behind me, I'll take the 24v.