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Competition 04.5 CTD: Stock CP3, sticks, turbo. 512rwhp 1027TQ

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Off Roading SNAP goes the tow strap... (video)

Competition 12 valve power

Not too shabby, man.

Nice work.



Do you care to provide a detailed list of things done to achieve that?

"Just a box" usually != 500hp+ :)



Beers,



Matt
 
Not too shabby, man.

Nice work.



Do you care to provide a detailed list of things done to achieve that?

"Just a box" usually != 500hp+ :)



Beers,



Matt





Nothing's hidden. it's all in my sig.



The blue line is just the Edge Hot juice.



The red is the smarty. Tho to defend the smarty, it didn't have a "Fair run" tho. if there was a contest to make the most smoke, I"m sure I'm right up on top. I had the smarty on 9 and Hot Juice on 6/5. I FORGOT to turn the edge to 0!!!



I know for a fact that early on in the pull the juice backed down 100% cuz the EGT's were rather high and I still have a head gasket in tacked. Imagine 2 180hp boxes with timing + pressure box on 3. I can attest, it does not equal 360 more horsepower :-laf:-laf:-laf



You can see where the Smarty took a dive, most likely due to the rail depletion early on. I expected to see a much higher torque number as well. Not a big deal, I'll correctly dyno it again at the next dyno day (duramax day).
 
Dang - that's pretty darn good for OEM parts and some different software! :cool:



Beers,



Matt



Not recommended with a load in tow. :) However, hauling my fat butt down the road it does just fine at 1700EGT's, 45+PSI at 120mph. :) This is the power and EGT and sanity limit for me and my truck. :-laf:-laf



The dyno run for the smarty ran upwards of 131mph on the rollers (3700rpm) (1650EGT's).
 
Nice #'s Jason, any ideas on what your next mods will be? Modified cp3 and turbo would probably push you into the 600's with a lot lower egt's.
 
Next is the selling of the Edge boxes (juice, ez) and purchase of more gauges and TST with pressure.

Autometer Phantom II
0-2000 pyro,
0-100 boost (new future turbos to about 55-65psi?, or a 0-60 is too little)
Intake Air Temp
Oil Pressure
triple a-pillar pot and quad over head pod

I plan to put the old parts up on ebay this weekend.

Smarty + tst should complete the programming aspect for a long while. I don't expect any power gains. Maybe expect a blown turbo? :-laf:-laf

Turbo is next after that for sure!

I'm thinking 64/14. Tho, I have yet to see, learn, figure out how 4000rpm will work with a turbo vs the standard 3000rpm (were defueling starts). This of course is pending public availability of 4000rpm Common Rail programs

Logic is telling me, more RPM is more air, more drive pressure. So you need a bigger housing. So maybe a 16 would react like a 12 or 14 with more RPM? If you need a 16 now, do you go up another level? Does drive pressure become that much more important at the higher RPMs? What about the compressor? can you support a 66 or 71 with ease (as in minimal smoke)? Maybe a massive waste gate is the key.

ARP studs should come in shortly after this turbo is in place. Just for safety sake.

This may force me to add a drive pressure gauge to the truck.

Naturally after the turbo is a second cp3, rail porting and injectors (60hp or 90hp range), this fixes the now "under fueled" situation. There is no reason to do a stage 1 or 2 CP3, a second one is the only way to go.

Not going for 1000hp. 700-750 on fuel. And for kicks I may add some spray. Anything more I'd like to have a dedicated truck to break.

As for valve springs, what I've read, you don't need them as much as one thought.

This is all what I have planned. Subject to change (like injectors). :) I'm, no expert, I just read a lot of others successes and trying to do what seems to work. feel free to point out flaws in my logic here.

This spring I also plan to buy the wheels off of my friend and stick some now 305/60/r20's. 2wd traction sucks as it does now :) can't go around in 4x4 all day long.
 
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Jason, i have an 05 with hot juice and was thinking of a ez stack. How well does that work, do you recommend it, and with both turned on do they make a lot more power or better driveability. I was thinking of level 2 or 3 on ez and level 1 or 2 on juice for daily driving.
 
Jason, i have an 05 with hot juice and was thinking of a ez stack. How well does that work, do you recommend it, and with both turned on do they make a lot more power or better driveability. I was thinking of level 2 or 3 on ez and level 1 or 2 on juice for daily driving.



Get your self a Rail gauge if you get an EZ.



I recommend the EZ on 1 the entire time. you don't need much more pressure. A little with a juice (or tst as I've heard as well) smooths out the power delivery very well.



The EZ took me from 420hp to 460hp between dyno runs with a standard juice on 5 and EZ on 3.



The thing with the EZ on 2 or 3 is that at about 70+ on the highway you'll have the rail pegged at 26K the entire time, unloaded cruising on flat ground. I'd like to stay away from maxing the rail while cursing.



I check my rail relief twice a year and up to 3200rpm doesn't leak a drip, so I'm not stressing it by running the EZ on 3 for racing (or the occasional run to 120mph) only. I'll see what happens at 3700rpm soon with the smarty :)



I have yet to get on a dyno for an hour. Some say ez on 3 is to much and they make more power on 2, I don't feel a difference between 2 or 3 personally and if your fueling enough to not max out the rail while WOT, then 2 or 3 or 1, you need more CP3's :)



Before I got the smarty, I'd drive on level 6 (hot), ez 1. Snow, or Rain, I may turn it down a to 3-ish or off depending on how unexpectedly the tire would spin.



I don't tow all the time, but the few times I had 5K or so behind me, if I kept my foot outa of it EGT's were just fine on 6, tho the smoke was kinda cool and the truck sounded cool when it was really loaded and fueled :)
 
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