Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Jacob's 1997 KDP Repair

[McCRam]

I didn't see it in the photos. But did you transfer the data plate? Who ever replaced the case on my truck did not. Now I do not have an ESN, or CPL numbers. I really wish that mechanic would have at least left it in the glove box.
Thank you for posting the pics of the dowels. It will helpful when I do my cam swap.

 

[Extreme1]

Nice cam handling tool! I'll have to remember that one.



The fuel heater probably isn't really needed where you live and they do develop a small leak which lets air in and causes hard starting (like an old\bad return line). Something to keep in mind if you have problems at some point. Do a search on fuel heater for some interesting reading.

 

[Joe G.]

The fuel heater is worthless no matter where you live.

 

[GCroyle]

It's running great.

Thanks for all of the kind comments guys, Dad is proud, Son is standing tall.



1. ID Plate transferred, used correct drive rivets.

2. I replaced the original bolt at the tab with a longer 10mm I think flange bolt, got all of the possible threads used.

3. We reset the engine to TDC and marked the damper and oil pan with a white paint stripe, gets us in the neighborhood for any future TDC servicing.

4. Found an exhaust flange leak at #1, doesn't show a crack, I'll get gaskets and take care of it.

5. Seat belt buzzer will not stop, need to chase and fix.

6. Fuel heater, I'll try to get a look at it along with the other rubber lines for aging and cracks.



Biggest help was when Anthony Cook sent me the used tappet to get the dowel rods figured out with. Dropping a tappet was a scary thought.



Jacob is cleaning the underside to get rid of the old oil stains, keeping him pretty busy.



Thanks.

 

[Ahopper]

. "Seat belt buzzer will not stop, need to chase and fix"



my 97 doesnt have a seat belt buzzer. but it does have a door buzzer when the key is in the ignition. i personaly didnt like this because if i had the radio on in the drivway i could keep the panenger door open but not the driver side wthout the buzzing. if you pop the driver door switch out with a flat head screwdriver there is three wires one is the ground, one is the dome light and one is the buzzer. if you cut the buzzer one the buzzing will stop. now the wait to start buzzer still works just the door buzzer stops working and the light will still work also.

 

[GCroyle]

Update.

We pulled the buzzer box off of the fuse box, no more buzzer of any kind. See below for re-think on this idea.



Its starting to cool off in the AM, 40's, looked for WTS, didn't see it. Searched in manuals, should be in "message center" didn't find it, noticed that original owner installed a US Gear E-brake, put the control button OVER the WTS and WIF lights, priceless!



Exhaust leak at #1 was due to pinched gasket from previous gasketing (I didn't do it) easy fix, gaskets from NAPA $6.



Decided to let Jacob drive it to school, gulp, just got off of the phone with #1 Son, made it to school OK, but he locked the keys in the truck! now, what about pulling the buzzer? I don't know if he left the key in the ignition or just got a brain fart like his Dad has once in every 10 years or so, due for the next one in 2010.



Truck is running great, ordered a hood blanket, going to get a Geno's dash cover and then see what's left in the budget after we work on the front end steering cleanup, damper, tie rod and ball joint inspection, etc.

 

[Breed]

You guys did a great job! What a experience! It's been fun reading about you and your son and a great adventure with a really cool CTD. Great Job... ... .

 

[GCroyle]

Thanks Bob, I appreciate the kind comments, I'll pass them on the Jacob.



LAst weekend Jacob installed a Mag-Hytech cover on the Dana 80 by himself, yes, we put in 2 shots of friction modifier, but the cool part was he got to haul 2 loads of oak firewood stacked proud in the bed. Both loads required an uphill climb out from the wood pile, told him to leave his foot off of the go pedal and just ease it into the clutch, the big 5. 9 just reached out and twisted the input shaft and away we went.



I found that one of the double return springs was broken, found a good substitute at ACE, fit just fine as far as I can tell, helps keep it from bucking. I believe it already has the TSB but one spring was broken.



We are looking at the front end, steering joints and stuff, found the steering shaft (pitman arm connected to it) is moving back and forth in the housing a bit. The procedure is in the book, just need to see if we can improve it.



Also noticed with the wood on, we are on the bump stops. Without the wood there is only a little over 1" or so between the axle and bottom of the bump stops, anybody know what the typical gap is there or have any measurables for checking rear springs?



The truck also has the cracked dash syndrome, that looks ugly to replace it correctly, that might just be a battle scar for a while.



Trying to get to Smokin in the Valley with the Mid TN gang, and on Dunbar's Dyno, that would be cool, going from dead + KDP to Dunbar in about 7 weeks.

 

[Joe G.]

The truck also has the cracked dash syndrome, that looks ugly to replace it correctly, that might just be a battle scar for a while.

QUOTE]



Removing the dash is not that hard if you remove the seats first. That's pretty easy too. Easier with a helper, but I have done it a couple of times by myself. If the dash is out then replacing the cracked portion is not hard. Almost impossible to do in the truck.

 

[Dave M]

The truck also has the cracked dash syndrome, that looks ugly to replace it correctly, that might just be a battle scar for a while.

QUOTE]



Removing the dash is not that hard if you remove the seats first. That's pretty easy too. Easier with a helper, but I have done it a couple of times by myself. If the dash is out then replacing the cracked portion is not hard. Almost impossible to do in the truck.

Joe,



Where did you get the replacement dash. I need to replace my 97 grey dash. It's cracking more and more. This sounds like a difficult job.



Dave

 

[Joe G.]

There have been some posts by people who had to fix a cracked dash. I think they got the replacement top of the dash from Dodge. I havn't had to do this repair. My post was mainly about removing the dash from the truck. It is a lot easier than people think. Your service manual says how to do it. The top of the dash is fastened to the rest of it with some screws that you can't get to with it in the truck. If you remove it by yourself it's kind of awkward because of the size of it. It's not heavy. The electrical connectors are all unique so you can't get it put back together wrong. There are some on the passenger side below the glove box that are easy to forget. Removing the seats is easy. Four screws or nuts to hold each of the three pieces in. One electrical connection for the power seat.

 

[GAmes]

Where did you get the replacement dash. I need to replace my 97 grey dash. It's cracking more and more. This sopunds like a difficult job.



Dave

Dave, I gave you the part number in May. Maybe you forgot?



http://https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/182820-2nd-gen-dash-cracks-4.html

 

[acook]

Gary,



Glad all is going ok. He seemed shocked and excited when he found out at the dyno day. I could only imagine how proud he is now after putting in his own sweat equity.



Anthony

 

[Dave M]

Dave, I gave you the part number in May. Maybe you forgot?



http://https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/2nd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/182820-2nd-gen-dash-cracks-4.html

I forgot. I got on to fixing the death wobble again among other things and put it off. I guess I have a volatile memory... ha. . ha. The rotors were bad so I just got that done and death wobble is cured... I think... at least for now. I tried getting Dodge to pay for the dash repair but they wanted $80 just to look at it so I gave up. I haven't yet decided whether to replace the dash or cover it with a dash cover. That link didn't work...



Thanks,

Dave

 

[GAmes]

I'll try again



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...discussions/182820-2nd-gen-dash-cracks-4.html

 

[GCroyle]

Thanks guys, I saw your post about the cracked dash repair, it helped me decide to put it off, now I guess I'll look into getting the parts.