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how do I know if my new FASS system is operating properly?

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BBowers

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I just fired up my new FASS 150/150 tonight. I heard it make all kids of whirring and humming and changing pitch. I had the fuel filter loosened a bit to purge air but retightened it before starting the engine (on the fass). No fuel ever came out of the top of the fass fuel filter. I did not want to wash the oil off of the o-ring. Then I started the truck and it cranked right up instantly. I have not driven it yet but I am trying to make sure I have done my homework on all things. I don't want to burn up my cp3 pump, if that is possible. Any advice? Oh, and the wiring harness to the old factory engine compartment lift pump, is it on the rear of the factory fuel filter housing? I have an 03 ram ctd 4x4 auto with the HO engine.
 
I just had the system installed on my 03 and it "sounds" terrible, but that is normal. It is loud, whines and cavitates but it is just doing it's job removing the air from the system.

Not sure about the wiring.
 
well a fuel pressure gauge would tell you all you want to know. My FASS system was dead quiet for the first year and a half and then started sounding like eveyone else's. Been wining loud now for about 8 months or so. No change in fuel pressure or rail pressure so I just ignore it now. But do keep a close eye on the gauges.
 
JVolpe,



Are you using a fuel pressure gauge with a sending unit right off of the FASS aluminum pump block (aka where FASS recommends that you put a sensor)? Or are you guys reading pressure at the CP3 inlet?



I'm asking because I'm trying to find a smart, unobtrusive way to get a fuel pressure reading just prior to the CP3. Thanks!
 
JVolpe,



Are you using a fuel pressure gauge with a sending unit right off of the FASS aluminum pump block (aka where FASS recommends that you put a sensor)? Or are you guys reading pressure at the CP3 inlet?



I'm asking because I'm trying to find a smart, unobtrusive way to get a fuel pressure reading just prior to the CP3. Thanks!



I have an Autometer Electric Fuel Pressure gauge. Just easier all around for me. My sending unit is T'd into the fuel line from my FASS to the CP3. It is T'd in about where the line runs under the firewall, this was the easiest place to run gauge wiring from. Since mine is in the rubber line I have not had any cavitation issues like some mounted directly on FASS or CP3. It has been on the truck for 2 1/2 years now.



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What does your fuel gauge look like? If you have time, pics would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!



Do you recall the retail price on your setup? Did you have to buy the T and fittings separate? This is exactly like what I'm looking for!



Thanks for your help!!



Best Regards,



Kai
 
What does your fuel gauge look like? If you have time, pics would be MUCH APPRECIATED!!!



Do you recall the retail price on your setup? Did you have to buy the T and fittings separate? This is exactly like what I'm looking for!



Thanks for your help!!



Best Regards,



Kai



The gauge was installed by HotRodDiesels with the FASS. I don't remember if everything was in the FASS kit or gauge kit, but the fittings for splicing into the line couldn't cost over $10.



I believe the gauge was around $200-$205 when I bought it. Gauge wiring is very simple, that part I did.



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You should have a fuel pressure gauge (mines electric). I have two sending units one before the filters and one after. I have a toggle that is A or B. When I see a 2lb difference I change the filter. In my Motor Home I have one gauge after the FASS. I get 20lbs at idle and 16 at 70 with a clean filter. Same thing drops 2 lbs and I change the filter.
 
MOROSO makes a 3/8 in,3/8out,1/8npt "T" fitting. aluminum and all one piece. Can be used for mech or elec. guage senders. just cut the line and insert splice w/sender, done.
 
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