Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need Instructions To Remove Stock & Install New SBC Clutch

[Dave M]

My gears are grinding when shifting so its time for a clutch for my 97 4x4 5spd dually. I just received my SBC MU 13-1. 25 ConO clutch kit with flywheel from Rip at Source Automotive where all their SBC clutchs have free shipping in Dec so I saved about $75. I will start install next Friday (12/14). I've done cars before but never a 4x4.



Looking for any help on replacing a clutch, like a list of step-by-step instructions on what to do. I'm getting a heavy duty transmission jack and porta-jack to spread the frame. Hope I can fit the truck in the garage.



Is there anything I need to look at now and parts needed that haven't come with the clutch kit. I figure to get a rear main engine seal anf front transmission seal in case they are leaking but not sure how to replace them if I have to.



What parts, tools and advice can you offer prior to starting this job so I'm ready on Friday.



Thanks in advance for any help or advice that can be offered. I'm a little afraid to tackle this alone but am reaching for the service manual now to prepare. Clutch kit came with 13 inch flywheel with needle bearing installed and new mounting bolts, 13 inch clutch & pressure plate, throw-out bearing and alignment tool.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[Bob V]

I would recomend NOT spreding the frame. There is room to pop the cross member up and the back.

 

[Dave M]

I would recomend NOT spreding the frame. There is room to pop the cross member up and the back.

I talked to someone at work who suggested they removed the brace by putting a jack under it to break it free.



I will try that jacking it up but I have the spreader if it won't come out. I really don't want to spread the frame but if its stuck I may have to spread it a little to free the cross member. Is there anything else you might add to popping it out?



Thanks for the tip.



Dave

 

[GCroyle]

I would remove the TC then go after the trans. With the TC attached, it's a handfull.



We have never had to spread a frame on any of our installations. Push the trans up a little, remove the mount, remove the 8 bolts, possibly squirt a bit of oil or apply grease behind the X-member on the frame rails, put hearing protection on, take a heavy hammer and tap the X-member UP FIRST, then start tapping it out the back working from L-R-L-R always keeping the X-member up as high as you can keep it, it will reach a spot in the frame where it will drop down and out, you don't need a sledge hammer, just give it some direction with the hammer be carefull, patient and you can leave the frame as Dodge bought it.



Be carefull.

 

[CSnyder]

1) pull truck inside and block the wheels.



2) shift t-case into nuetral and remove 5 spped shifter and console/boot



3) remove rear driveshaft including carrier bearing and slide out of the way.



4) remove front driveshaft 1st unbolt from axle so you can swivel the other end around to remove bolts... you will most likely have to snap the shaft around after bolts are out to get it off the t-case... . be careful to not drop caps off u-joints. I tape them up once removed from the axle.



5) remove skid plate and rear crossmember and then the steel vaccum lines from the forward crossmember and frame area and push up under front axle.



6) disconnect the vacuum and nuetral wiring from trans and t-case



7) remove the 6 bolts (14mm wrench) that attach the t-case to the trans and pull it out from underneath... . good time to change oil in there as it will spill out if not drained... drain before removal... then slide it out of the way.



8) place a jack under the trans and remove the trans mount and then pound the crossmember up... works best with a rubber deadblow hammer... then it will slide back and out of there... . NOTE BE VERY CAREFUL ON DRIVERS SIDE TO NOT DAMAGE FUEL LINES... . THESE CAN BE POPPED OUT OF THE HOLDER TO GIVE ROOM TO REMOVE THE CROSSMEMBER! You can spread the frame with no ill effects if a spreader is available.



9) make sure you have the trans jack under the trans good and remove the 4 bolts holding the trans to the bellhousing. Place a jack under the harmonic balancer and put slight pressure up there to help the trans clear the truck floor during removal... not neccessary but helpful. Slide the trans backwards out of the way.



10) remove the slave cylinder and the bellhousing and there is the clutch. Be careful removing the flywheel and installing because they are very heavy in ackward places like under a truck. Make sure you use threadlocker on the new flywheel and clutch bolts and install in reverse order.



I highly recommend a helper who knows tools and basic wrenching but isnt neccessary. You will need an assortment of metric wrenches from 10 to 19 mm, sockets from 8 to 19 mm, various extensions and rachets, 5/16 wrench for rear driveshaft yoke, phillips screwdriver, small prybar, hammer(prefer rubber deadblow),and tube of threadlocker.



Be sure you leave the clutch alingment tool inside the roller bearing until the clutch is totally tightened and occasionally wiggle it around so you know alingment is right on. Also be sure to not force the trans back into the clutch and knock the shift fork off its pivot. It is much easier to also reinstall the slave to hold the throwout bearing while trying to allign everything during install. Once you bolt the slave back in look thru the bellhousing rear hole to allign the throwout bearing with the clutch splines.



If you think you will need more guidance pm me for my phone number and I will guide you through anything I can. I intend to have my shop open the day of your install.

 

[Dave M]

Thank you guys so much. I didn't expect such a quick response.

originally posted by CGroyle> I would remove the TC then go after the trans. With the TC attached, it's a handfull... . We have never had to spread a frame on any of our installations.

I will tap the brace out as you suggested. Thanks much for telling me how.



"CSnyder" thats the kind of detail I needed... step by step. I really appreciate you taking the time to type all that out. I will print it and follow those instructions.



I have to go to church now but will read the post carefully when I get back in a few hours.



Sorry for asking for so much info but I'll feel easier about tackling the job in a few days. Keep the comments coming if you can think of anything that will help or something I missed.



Thanks to all in advance,

Dave

 

[JGK]

It's been a year and a half since I last had my transmission and clutch out, but I'd swear I pushed the cross member up and FORWARD to get it out, not back. It came out and went in pretty easily, but still took some banging with a dead-blow.



One other item that helped since I didn't have a lift. I rolled the front wheels up on some ramps that raised the front end about 6 or 8 inches. That helped with clearance to work under the truck and to roll the transmission out from under the truck on the lowboy transmission jack.



-Jay

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

My gears are grinding when shifting so its time for a clutch for my 97 4x4 5spd dually.

Dave it sounds like your clutch slave is on its way out. . . I'd get a new one from South Bend otherwise you'll likely have trouble getting it into gear at a stop & work the syncros hard when upshifting. People often have trouble with this after installing a new clutch since it's thicker than the old one and an aging slave cylinder doesn't have enough throw to fully release it.

 

[Dave M]

Dave it sounds like your clutch slave is on its way out. . . I'd get a new one from South Bend otherwise you'll likely have trouble getting it into gear at a stop & work the syncros hard when upshifting. People often have trouble with this after installing a new clutch since it's thicker than the old one and an aging slave cylinder doesn't have enough throw to fully release it.

Thanks for the info Vaughn. I have been thinking about the slave cylinder being my real problem since the clutch doesn't shudder or exhibit normal clutch problems. Today I ordered a new slave cylinder from Source Automotive -- Main and it should be here in time. This is our only vehicle so I want as little down time as possible.



"Jay" I'll see if it comes out front or rear. Good tip on raising the front wheels. I don't have ramps but maybe I can borrow some.



"CSnyer" I have all necessary tools you mention and have been doing all my own repairs for awhile. I should have help from my 15 yr old son. I just like to be well prepared before I start this project. Its been awhile since I've replaced a clutch. Once again, thank you so much for your instructions and the offer of help. I really appreciate it.



Thanks for the replys. Keep them coming.



Dave

 

[Pavemen]

gotta love $14. 95/year/vehcile at alldatadiy.com... this is for my 99 though, shouldnt be any different than your 97 I dont think

Removal and Installation
Removal

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Shift transmission into Neutral.
3. Remove screws attaching shift boot to floorpan. Then slide boot upward on the shift lever.
4. Remove the bolts holding the shift tower to the isolator plate and transmission gear case.
5. Remove the shift tower and isolator plate from the transmission gear case.
6. Raise and support vehicle.
7. Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for alignment reference. Use paint, scriber, or chalk to mark yokes.
8. Remove universal joint strap screws and remove straps.
9. Remove propeller shaft.
10. Disconnect and remove exhaust system as necessary.
11. Disconnect wires at backup light switch.
12. Support engine with adjustable safety stand and wood block.
13. If transmission is to be disassembled for repair, remove drain bolt at bottom of PTO cover and drain lubricant from transmission.
14. Remove bolts/nuts attaching transmission to rear mount.
15. Support transmission with a transmission jack. Secure transmission to jack with safety chains. NOTE: It is recommended that a heavy duty, scissors style transmission jack be used to remove and install the NV5600 transmission.
16. Remove rear crossmember.
17. Remove bolts attaching clutch slave cylinder to clutch housing. Then move cylinder aside for working clearance.
18. Remove wire harness from clips on transmission.
19. Remove bolts attaching transmission clutch housing to the engine block.
20. Slide transmission and jack rearward until input shaft clears clutch disc and pressure plate.
21. Lower transmission jack and remove transmission from under vehicle.

Installation

1. Apply light coat of MOPAR high temperature bearing grease to contact surfaces of following components:

*
o input shaft splines and pilot bearing hub.
o release bearing slide surface of front retainer.
o pilot bearing.
o release bearing bore.
o release fork.
o release fork ball stud.
o propeller shaft slip yoke.

1. Apply sealer to threads of bottom PTO cover bolt and install bolt in case.
2. Mount transmission on jack and position transmission under vehicle. NOTE: It is recommended that a heavy duty, scissors style transmission jack be used to remove and install the NV5600 transmission.
3. Raise transmission until input shaft is centered in clutch disc hub.
4. Move transmission forward and start input shaft in clutch disc and pilot bushing/bearing.
5. Work transmission forward until seated against engine block. Do not allow transmission to remain unsupported after input shaft has entered clutch disc.
6. Install and tighten transmission-to-engine block bolts.
7. Install clutch slave cylinder.
8. Connect backup light switch wires.
9. Fill transmission with recommended lubricant. Correct fill level is bottom edge of fill plug hole.
10. Position transmission harness wires in clips on transmission.
11. Install transmission mount on transmission or rear crossmember.
12. Install rear crossmember.
13. Remove transmission jack and engine support fixture.
14. Align and install propeller shaft.
15. Lower vehicle.
16. Shift transmission into third gear.
17. Clean the mating surfaces of shift tower and isolator plate with suitable wax and grease remover.
18. Apply MOPAR Gasket Maker, or equivalent, to the sealing surface of the transmission case. Do not over apply sealant.
19. Install the isolator plate onto the transmission case, metal side down.
20. Install the shift tower onto the isolator plate. No sealant is necessary between the shift tower and top of the isolator plate.
21. Verify that the shift tower, isolator plate, and the shift socket are properly aligned.
22. Install the bolts to hold the shift tower to the isolator plate and the transmission case. Tighten the shift tower bolts to 10. 2 - 11. 25 Nm (7. 5 - 8. 3 ft. lbs. ) .
23. Install shift boot and bezel.
24. Connect battery negative cable.

 

[Dave M]

"Paveman"... WOW... that is a detailed list. I'll read it over and print it out. Between yours and "Csnyder" post I should not miss anything. I haven't subscribed to alldata yet but I'm considering it for the $24. 95 per year.



Thanks guys,

Dave

 

[Pavemen]

"Paveman"... WOW... that is a detailed list. I'll read it over and print it out. Between yours and "Csnyder" post I should not miss anything. I haven't subscribed to alldata yet but I'm considering it for the $24. 95 per year.

Thanks guys,
Dave

i use it alot actually. i have all three of my vehicles in it. maybe that is where i got the $14. 95 from. he first is 24, then the others are 14. I cant remember, but its worth the price for instant anywhere access. i know the FSM is a great source as well, but sometimes the diagnostics are easier with the alldata site.

It also has estimates on hours required as well as the warranty billing time expected. for the few things I can't do or dont want to deal with, this lets me verify with the mechanic what kind of times to expect.

 

[Dave M]

How to Remove Shift Extension

I'm reading the service manual getting ready for the clutch job tomorrow and it says to remove/install the shift lever extension I need a special installer/remover tool. How do I get this off/on witout the tool or do I need to get the tool?



I'm starting this tomorrow morning so any inupt is appreciated. I'm also hoping I don't need any seals for transmission, transfer case or rear crank seal cause I didn't get any.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[Pavemen]

my manual nor alldata mentions any special tools for removing the shift lever parts or cover.

 

[Dave M]

my manual nor alldata mentions any special tools for removing the shift lever parts or cover.

I see you have a 99. I hope its not different for my 97. I have the 97 Dodge manual and it says you need a tool to compress a spring in the extension.



I'll find out for sure tomorrow morning.



Thanks for the reply.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[Pavemen]

i went and looked at my 97 alldata info and it does show the tool you are talking about. (I didn't think it would have the nv4500 info in it since i specified a 1500 with 5. 2L when subscribed)

is the the tool you are talking about? I am not sure if it is really needed or not.

 

[Dave M]

i went and looked at my 97 alldata info and it does show the tool you are talking about. (I didn't think it would have the nv4500 info in it since i specified a 1500 with 5. 2L when subscribed)



is the the tool you are talking about? I am not sure if it is really needed or not.

Yes that's the tool I'm seeing in my 97 manual. I'm going to degrease and clean everything first. In about 1-2 hours I'll start with the shifter and find out if I can oakie a way to get it off. I'll post when I find out.



Thanks for replying Paveman.



Dave

 

[JGK]

I've had my transmission ('98 5 speed) out twice and never used such a tool for the shifter. Once you remove the 4 bolts holding the whole lever mechanism to the top of the housing, it just lifts right out.



-Jay

 

[GCroyle]

Dave,



We have a 97 and the way I remember it, you have to push a retaining cap down and give it a 1/4 turn, (it locks onto two projecting pins) then the spring pushes the stub shaft out and that is it. Might have to just reach into the toolbox and get creative.



Make sure you pack a clean towel into the open tower to prevent foreign objects from getting into the gearbox.

 

[Dave M]

Thanks JGK for the info. I hope its the same on my 97. "GCroyle" that's good to hear. They mentioning twisting the ring in the manual after the procedure to remove the extension.



I got side tracked helping my 15 year old time his 79 camaro and him and mom went to see if it will pas smog for the 4th timee... . don't ask why... geeez.



Ive been degreaseing the transmission and will be getting it in the garage in the next 30 minutes. I've post what I find. It's going to be a long day. Probably be working tomorrow on this too. I'll be satisfied to get the transmission out today and install in morning.



I'm gonna try to leave the transmission on the jack and maybe leave the transfer case on.



Dave