Blown freeze plug, replace and use plate or use Enterprise pressure system?

[Blacksdieselhp]

I saw a post on another site on the Enterprise Engine pressure relief system that comes with a plate with an extrusion that fits in the freeze plug hole with an oring for sealing and hose that runs from that to a relief valve. Do you guys think just replacing the freeze plug with a new one and using the plate to hold it in is suffincient or would this kit be the best way to go?

 

[rbattelle]

Seems to me you want the relief kit if you're pullin', otherwise it's probably not necessary.

But if you're already back there to replace the freeze plug anyway, you might as well go all the way and get the valve.

Ryan

 

[Chris Jewell]

I know I've seen a post on here or one of the other sites where the guy used the plate then had a plug blow on the side of the block. I would go with the pressure relief or just be sure to warm the truck up good before you beat on it.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Why not use an electric water pump?

EEP sells one for like $550, but there's another one on the market for dang near 1/2 that.



Beers,



Matt

 

[ENafziger]

I voted to go with Enterprise's setup, and it's worked well for me. XLR8R on DTR also sells a kit, a little nicer and more complex, but a little pricier as well. I figured as long as I was back there, it was cheap insurance for the problems it could cause later (at the most inconvenient time usually)!

If you want pictures of my setup, let me know, but if you've searched around on here you've probably seen them.

--Eric

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

Does anyone have a diagram of the system? I assume it is the plate that goes over the hole, a hose going from the plate to a pressure valve, and a hose going from the valve to the top rad hose. Is this correct? I am trying to decide whether to go this route or to run it to the return heater hose like the cummins kit does.

 

[TCluff]

I saw a post on another site on the Enterprise Engine pressure relief system that comes with a plate with an extrusion that fits in the freeze plug hole with an oring for sealing and hose that runs from that to a relief valve. Do you guys think just replacing the freeze plug with a new one and using the plate to hold it in is suffincient or would this kit be the best way to go?

I HAD A FREEZE PLUG BLOWING PROBLEM, PULLED THE WATER PUMP AND CLIPPED ONE BLADE OFF, I HAVE HAD NO COOLING PROBLEMS OR BLOWN FREEZE PLUGS SINCE ... .

 

[CDonaldson]

I have not seen the Enterprise Engine pressure relief system but if pressure is what's causing the plug to blow when cold and under load it would only make sense to install some kind of pressure relief. Getting at that plug looks like a PITA, doing it once with something better than just replacing the plug and holding it with a plate is a smart idea. I carry one of the plate fixes in my toolbox just in case I have a problem on the road somewhere, but maybe it would just be a smart idea to get the relief system and put it on in advance of problems.



CD

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I have not seen the Enterprise Engine pressure relief system but if pressure is what's causing the plug to blow when cold and under load it would only make sense to install some kind of pressure relief. ... but maybe it would just be a smart idea to get the relief system and put it on in advance of problems.

Since pressure is the problem - then remedy the of the SOURCE of the excessive pressure... the water pump.



The water pumps on our engines are designed for maximum coolant flow from idle to about 2600rpm. When you spin these engines to 3500rpm and beyond - the water pump is flowing so much (and probably cavitating like a mo-fo... ) that it creates excessive pressure.



Beers,



Matt

 

[ENafziger]

Pictures of the Enterprise system...

Well, it's not really a diagram, but here's some pictures of the enterprise system.

Here's the regulating valve and a picture of the freeze-plug plate:

#ad



Here's a picture of the freeze plug removed, and a shot of the plate showing the machined insert with o-ring that fills the freeze plug hole:

#ad



Nother shot...

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Plate installed on the back of the engine:

#ad



Bracket I made to mount the regulating valve:

#ad



This is where the bracket is going to fit. Picture is directly in front of the intake horn and grid heaters for reference... . bracket will fit over a nubbin and bolt hole.

#ad



Regulator mounted, and tied into radiator hose:

#ad



The pressure is adjustable for when you want coolant pressure to be bypassed from the back of the block to the upper radiator hose... I think from 0 - 50 psi.

--Eric

 

[WM-300]

In reading the posts, it appears there is concern that the water pump will over pressure the cooling system and blow freeze plugs. My Cummins shop manual for 5. 9l engines instructs that a 220 degree cooling system should have a 15 psi pressure cap on the radiator and a 210 degree system uses a 7 psi radiator cap. So if the cap is functioning as designed how can the water pump build excess pressure and blow freeze plugs , the cap would just dump the excess pressure ? What am I missing ?



WM300

 

[rbattelle]

So if the cap is functioning as designed how can the water pump build excess pressure and blow freeze plugs , the cap would just dump the excess pressure ? What am I missing ?

Isn't the radiator cap out of the loop until the thermostat opens? I was under the impression the excess pressure occurs with a cold engine, before the thermostat is open.



Maybe I'm wrong?



Ryan

 

[WM-300]

Isn't the radiator cap out of the loop until the thermostat opens? I was under the impression the excess pressure occurs with a cold engine, before the thermostat is open.



Maybe I'm wrong?



Ryan

Most engines have a small bypass around the T Stat. My shop manual is in my shop. I will have to look tomorrow and see if there is a bypass.



WM300

 

[WM-300]

I was intrigued with this problem and went out to the shop and got my manual.



Cummins Shop Manual B3. 9 & B5. 9 Engines

Group 8

Cooling

Page 8-3

Flow Diagram, Cooling system



The following is a quote from the manual;

" When the engine is below operating temperature, the thermostat is closed, and the coolant flow bypasses the radiator and goes to the water pump inlet through internal drillings in the block and cylinder head. "



"When operating temperature is reached, the thermostat opens, blocking the bypass passage to the water pump and opening the outlet to the radiator"

End of quote:



So the coolant is does not see the radiator until engine temperature is reached, thus the pressure cap does not come into play, until T Stat opens. Ok, I understand, but also wonder if blown plugs may be on some engines where they were not installed properly ?



Another good reason to keep the block heater plugged in during cold weather. I keep mine plugged in all the time when not running, and then a short warm up and Ii have heat. Plus the T Stat is starting to open, thus the Pressure Cap can handle excess over pressure.



WM300

 

[Red Ram]

Do you have an web address our phone number to Enterprise Engine pressure relief system. thank you

 

[ENafziger]

Enterprise engines

Enterprise Engine Performance

1-740-246-6329

--Eric

 

[Red Ram]

Enterprise engines



Enterprise Engine Performance



1-740-246-6329



--Eric

Thank you ENafziger