Attention: TDR Forum Junkies KDP Installation Notes
I just finished the killer dowel pin fix on my 95. Here are some notes for the next member looking to do the job.
Many thanks to the members who posted advice before me. An archive search is very helpful before you even buy the parts. Special thanks to Joe G. who sent his KDP write up. His tips are really helpful.
I used the TST kit, $48. 00 including the tab, longer bolt, crank shaft oil seal for the cover, and case cover gasket maker sealant. They include a very good set of instructions with photos. Try to follow them closely.
Consider the following notes as a supplement to the TST instructions and Joe's paper.
Draining the windshield washer tank is messy. Have big pan to catch the fluid.
To make more space, I removed the upper radiator hose making another mess. Again a big pan under the truck will keep it mostly off the floor. Drain some from the radiator first, if you do this. I didn't find the drain cock, so this was messy.
The lower bolt on the fan mounting bracket was not particularly tight so the proper open end wrench worked fine. There was no need to grind a custom thin wrench in my case.
A box or scaffold of some sort makes it much easier to reach deep when necessary, and allows one person more leverage to lift out the fan, fan clutch, mounting bracket, and fan shroud all at the same time. Work slowly and patiently and it comes out surprisingly easy. Thanks, Joe G.
If you have marked the damper for TDC when checking valve lash or the like, be sure to note its position before you remove it. It can go back on in four positions. The engine may also roll when you remove the damper bolts, inspie of precautions. If so you will lose your reference. I set the engine to TDC prior to pulling the damper so it could be returned to TDC as a reference for re-installing the damper. While the damper is off and clean, it is a good time to replace any prior scribe or crayon marks with paint for future use.
My dowel pin seemed to be tight, yet protruding about a thirty second of an inch. It did not move when I attempted to tap it further into the case. I ground the tab down about a thirty second to match and allow the tab to lie flat as the hold down bolt is tightened. There is plenty of tab thickness to do this.
The biggest task for me was cleaning all the parts removed. Even though I cleaned the truck engine prior to starting, there was still plenty of dirt. A combination of Simple Green with water, brake cleaner, and parts cleaner eventually did the job. Allow more time, if you do this.
I chose to chase all the case bolt holes and the bolt threads. Some bolts had come out pretty crusty, probably with the factory thread locker. There are a lot of bolts and holes. Allow more time if you do this, too.
The TST kit uses a gasket maker sealant instead of the big OEM steel/fiber gasket that came off. I was skeptical of the sealants effectiveness, but went ahead with it based on recommendations. No leaks after three days and several test drives. My old hands wanted to cramp while pushing the sealant out of the tube onto that long cover edge. That it didn't flow really well may have been due to the rather cool temperature in the shop or maybe it was an older tube of sealant, though the package was unopened. Maybe you will want to pick a warm place to work, or have a new tube of sealant, or test it and warm the tube for easy flow, if necessary.
I used a couple of correct-thread hardware store bolts in the cover bolt holes as pins to guide the cover as the oil seal and cover are forced over the crankshaft and mated to the case. Thanks again to Joe G. This made the cover fitting much easier, especially with all the gooey sealant on the edges of the cover ready to smear on anything it touches.
The new oil seal, installed in the cover as per instructions, fit right over the crankshaft end. Amazingly, the plastic throw-away guide ring popped out right through the seal and was easy to remove with fingers. The instructions are correct as written, but the first timer will doubt the description. Follow the instructions. It works.
The oil filler tube will separate into two parts. This allows easy reinstallation after the fan and shroud are back in place.
I hope this helps the next guy.
Again, thanks the forum members who have written this up before.
Spike
I just finished the killer dowel pin fix on my 95. Here are some notes for the next member looking to do the job.
Many thanks to the members who posted advice before me. An archive search is very helpful before you even buy the parts. Special thanks to Joe G. who sent his KDP write up. His tips are really helpful.
I used the TST kit, $48. 00 including the tab, longer bolt, crank shaft oil seal for the cover, and case cover gasket maker sealant. They include a very good set of instructions with photos. Try to follow them closely.
Consider the following notes as a supplement to the TST instructions and Joe's paper.
Draining the windshield washer tank is messy. Have big pan to catch the fluid.
To make more space, I removed the upper radiator hose making another mess. Again a big pan under the truck will keep it mostly off the floor. Drain some from the radiator first, if you do this. I didn't find the drain cock, so this was messy.
The lower bolt on the fan mounting bracket was not particularly tight so the proper open end wrench worked fine. There was no need to grind a custom thin wrench in my case.
A box or scaffold of some sort makes it much easier to reach deep when necessary, and allows one person more leverage to lift out the fan, fan clutch, mounting bracket, and fan shroud all at the same time. Work slowly and patiently and it comes out surprisingly easy. Thanks, Joe G.
If you have marked the damper for TDC when checking valve lash or the like, be sure to note its position before you remove it. It can go back on in four positions. The engine may also roll when you remove the damper bolts, inspie of precautions. If so you will lose your reference. I set the engine to TDC prior to pulling the damper so it could be returned to TDC as a reference for re-installing the damper. While the damper is off and clean, it is a good time to replace any prior scribe or crayon marks with paint for future use.
My dowel pin seemed to be tight, yet protruding about a thirty second of an inch. It did not move when I attempted to tap it further into the case. I ground the tab down about a thirty second to match and allow the tab to lie flat as the hold down bolt is tightened. There is plenty of tab thickness to do this.
The biggest task for me was cleaning all the parts removed. Even though I cleaned the truck engine prior to starting, there was still plenty of dirt. A combination of Simple Green with water, brake cleaner, and parts cleaner eventually did the job. Allow more time, if you do this.
I chose to chase all the case bolt holes and the bolt threads. Some bolts had come out pretty crusty, probably with the factory thread locker. There are a lot of bolts and holes. Allow more time if you do this, too.
The TST kit uses a gasket maker sealant instead of the big OEM steel/fiber gasket that came off. I was skeptical of the sealants effectiveness, but went ahead with it based on recommendations. No leaks after three days and several test drives. My old hands wanted to cramp while pushing the sealant out of the tube onto that long cover edge. That it didn't flow really well may have been due to the rather cool temperature in the shop or maybe it was an older tube of sealant, though the package was unopened. Maybe you will want to pick a warm place to work, or have a new tube of sealant, or test it and warm the tube for easy flow, if necessary.
I used a couple of correct-thread hardware store bolts in the cover bolt holes as pins to guide the cover as the oil seal and cover are forced over the crankshaft and mated to the case. Thanks again to Joe G. This made the cover fitting much easier, especially with all the gooey sealant on the edges of the cover ready to smear on anything it touches.
The new oil seal, installed in the cover as per instructions, fit right over the crankshaft end. Amazingly, the plastic throw-away guide ring popped out right through the seal and was easy to remove with fingers. The instructions are correct as written, but the first timer will doubt the description. Follow the instructions. It works.
The oil filler tube will separate into two parts. This allows easy reinstallation after the fan and shroud are back in place.
I hope this helps the next guy.
Again, thanks the forum members who have written this up before.
Spike
