Sewer pipe turbo inlet

[JPul]

In searching past threads I don't recall seeing any posts on a down-pipe to turbo using a 4" sewer pipe.



The company I work for makes the stock intake system. My collegue that helped develop the sytem with DCX for the 03 up indicated that the original production release system used a one piece pipe from air cleaner to elbow and I actually have one of these. However DCX decided that the turbo whistle was too bothersome and switched to the resonator system that is on these trucks. He did say that this caused a considerable increase in intake restriction. The curved vane insert in the bottom elbow was added to get some of the restriction increase down. BTW those vanes had very minimal effect when installed in the top elbow.



he showed me a test setup which replaced the resonator with a 4" Y elbow (I don't recall the reason for this setup), and it looks like the fit of the elbows to the connection ends of the Y was quite good. replacing the Y with a straight section into a coupler at each end, should provide the same fit as the Y and get rid of a decent bit of restriction.



Anyone tried such a setup. I wonder about fit and durability of the sewer pipe in this hot environment.



BTW, all of our dust testing is performed with Arizona fine dust per DCX test spec and this would certainly effect efficiency over Arizona coarse. I wonder which dust is used for the aftermarket systems because I see better efficiency numbers for these systems than for the stock system using Arizona fine.



Any thoughts are appreciated.



Regards, John

 

[cerberusiam]

I used 4" schedule 40 pipe with 4" schedule 80 connectors at each end. Fits the boots perfectly. Spray each end with hair spray before you put it on and it will seal any imperfections and negate any vibration problems. Open up the air box with some holes in the bottom and you get a nice whistle plus the filter minder never pulls down.



I have checked flow up to 400 hp on dyno and there is no difference in power with or without a good filter.



I have been running it for 2 years and have seen no problems. Every time I change the filter I pull it and check for leaks. Never have/had any dust show up on a wipe test.

 

[JSanchez]

Anyone have pics of this set up?

 

[phloop]

Dang, I have those same pieces stitting under the carport that I was going to install on the '04 which I traded for the '06. The only thing different is I went with a metal pipe instead of ABS. When I test fit the 90deg on the turbo due to length, I had to whittle about a 1/4" off of the turbo side of it to clear the oil filter.



And the Y that was used was probably for testing purposes. One leg of the Y might go to the stock filter and the other leg could go to another filter or just open air to test which configuration was better.

 

[JPul]

Thanks for the replies, guys



Cerberusiam, is the schedule 40 a higher temp material. have you had any indications of melt. Clearance to the oil filter was OK?



Regards, John

 

[rbattelle]

This sounds interesting, but I can't picture the arrangement. Isn't it necessary to have a flexible coupling between the airbox and the turbo?

Or are you guys meerly replacing the straight hard-plastic piece (the "resonator" as JPul calls it) with a piece of pipe?

JPul's info makes a continuous silicone hose (like Cool Blue) sound better, although I'm not sure anyone has noticed any power increase with it.

Ryan

 

[JPul]

Ryan,



This method just replaces the plastic resonator/silencer and you continue to use the 2 stock elbows. The top one has the bellows in it. Keep the flow vanes in the bottom one as this helps. The bellows are necessary to meet the DCX requirement for engine roll but I would think that the motor mounts would have to get awful sloppy before the engine would indeed roll to the plus and minus 1" that we test to, including testing at - 40 degrees.



I believe that you will get some turbo whistle coming back through because that's why DCX spent the extra money for the sliencer and we all know how much DCX doesn't want to spend money.



Regards, John

 

[cerberusiam]

Thanks for the replies, guys



Cerberusiam, is the schedule 40 a higher temp material. have you had any indications of melt. Clearance to the oil filter was OK?



Regards, John

Nope, I painted it black like the factory piece and purposely used a non temp rated paint. There is no indication or bubbling or heat damage on the paint. The piece replaces the factory TQ tube exactly and uses the stock elbows so there is no clearance or flex problems with anything.



Schedule 40 pipe is pretty tough and if you take a torch to it you will see it takes a bit of heat to melt or even soften it. As thick as it is deformation is not a problem either. If it did suffer you would have way many other parts melted, broke and destroyed. :-laf



You have to use the schedule 80 connectors as the schedule 40 ones are not thick enough to match the elbows. I built it to match the factory piece in length and then cleaned up the rough edges with a die grinder. I think the total cost was about $25, and, as I said up to 400 hp there is no traceable difference between it and $350 setup. Heat soak is just not a problem unless you are stationary and that just doesn't happen with my truck as my average speed is around 45 mph.

 

[JPul]

I appreciate yourt comments about the 80 vs 40. The piece I saw was black so I am assuming 80 complete. If temps are not a problem, I wonder if a schedule 80 pipe will work just as well and no need for paint.



I want to do this.



Regards, John

 

[phloop]

After reading the new posts on this thread it seems like we may be talking about two different things here.



JPul, are you talking about just replacing the stock sound muffler thingie in the intake or replacing both that ant the rubber elbows?



If you just want to replace the muffler thingie, that's easy to do with a piece of 5" exhuast pipe. This is what I did on my 04. I bought the 4" tubing and sewer 90's to replace the complete system and to help with adding an open air filter.

 

[JPul]

phloop,



I'm just talking about the stock muffler thingy. I guess the reason I'm looking at the 4" sewer pipe is that it makes the flow path more continuous. I can appreciate that the 5" exhaust pipe would work as well but then the flow path has to step down to the 4" actual inlet of the elbow. As well, things are a little tight down there. Is there enough room for a 5 " pipe.



Regards, John

 

[phloop]

phloop,



I'm just talking about the stock muffler thingy. I guess the reason I'm looking at the 4" sewer pipe is that it makes the flow path more continuous. I can appreciate that the 5" exhaust pipe would work as well but then the flow path has to step down to the 4" actual inlet of the elbow. As well, things are a little tight down there. Is there enough room for a 5 " pipe.



Regards, John

To replace the muffler thingie I used a piece of 5" muffler tube 8 1/4" long, that is the size to fit back into the stock rubber 90's. I just measured it as I had removed it and put the plastic thingie back in when I traded the 04 in.



And after digging through the pieces and looking them over I realise that I did not buy rubber sewer 90's but actual air inlet 90's. I was fabbing up a shadetree BHAF. But the 4" from filter to turbo with out any size changes does sound like a good idea.