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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel pressure gauge?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Twin Turbo's on 12valve's

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CR, I tapped into the banjo bolt where the fuel supply line goes into the injector pump. I use a brass needle valve (almost closed off) as a pulse damper and went through a 12" long braided ss hose to stop the loud clicking noise from the lift pump, and to keep engine vibration and movement from working the 1/8" ss tubing. Then to a 100 psi mechanical gage. It's been trouble free.

From a lot of reading on this site, I make the following conclusions: 1. Mechanical gages are more dependable, but they have to be isolated from the lift pump pulses and the fuel supply. 2. Electrical gages are easier to locate in the cab and are completely isolated from the fuel supply, 3. Electrical gage senders seem to crap out a lot. 4. Everybody with a diesel engine needs a working fuel pressure gage. It may save an injector pump by warning that the fuel supply pressure is too low. Mine has saved some filter changes, and caused some, when pressure uexpectedly dropped shortly after a fill-up. (Twice). I don't go there anymore. If I didn't tow, and only had 1 gage, it would be a fuel pressure gage. Even towing, it is right up there with the EGT in importance.





Good luck, Tom
 
I have a 98 so mine is different, but I tapped into the two pre case bosses in my fuel filter head.

1 is pre filter, the other is post filter.
 
J, it doesn't have a name on it. It's a 270 degree sweep (center pivot needle)automotive lighted gage. I cannibalized it from the instrument panel off of a powerboat. The connection is in the center of the back of the gage, which makes it easier to mount in a panel or pod. They should be available from an auto parts place or Geno's, etc.



Good luck, Tom
 
That is what I want to do, my biggest reason is for filtration condition use. Do you reckon my 97 is the same as yours?



I have a 98 so mine is different, but I tapped into the two pre case bosses in my fuel filter head.

1 is pre filter, the other is post filter.
 
on my 96 with the oil filter style fuel filter i tapped the banjo bolt larger with the bleeder screwed into the top and screwed in there with a needle valve to dampen the pulses, i am also running a isolator yet my gauge still managed to crap out, i have a spare 30# black face isspro that's got around 6 months of use on it if you want a used one, i swapped it out for a 60# gauge so it would be reading in the middle of it's range
 
Thanks. I have gauges already, just have not crawled around on the engine to see where to hook in for pressures.
 
For those of you looking for pictures of where to tap into the fuel system on a 12-valve, Joe G. has posted some pics in several posts. Do a search for his name and the keywords "fuel pressure" and "gauge". Here is one thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/12-valve-engine-transmission-1994-1998/152642-permanent-fuel-pressure-gauge-hookup.html.





FWIW, I bought a 60 psi pressure gauge at a local bearing supply store and ran rubber fuel line from it to a needle valve connected to a snubber that is tapped into the inlet banjo bolt on the supply line to the injection pump. I used teflon tape on the threaded connections, and have had no issues with fuel leakage in the cab. Of course, it isn't as critical in my truck since I have vinyl floors and I don't smoke. ;)



CTD12V
 
Lots of help here so far, thanks guys. My goal is to put two senders on pre and post filter, one gauge with a flip switch to read either.

I never quite gathered if there is made a sender that will tolerate the spikes in pressures.
 
J, The brand of my gage is VDO. I found it when my one brain cell made temporary contact. Also remembered it was an oil pressure gage on the panel it was in. Works just fine.



On edit: Don, from the number of sender failures I've read about and seen, I believe the sender needs a pulse damper, like the needle valve. I haven't bought an electric gage, but the instructions with one should say if it requires a damper. If they don't, I'd put one on anyway.



Hope this helps, Tom
 
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I got two brain cells, so they get crossed up sometimes. Seems to me that back in the old days, they made senders and guages with a tiny little hole, that served as a restrictor for spikes. I also thought the oil filled guages were that way to absorb the spikes. .



J, The brand of my gage is VDO. I found it when my one brain cell made temporary contact. Also remembered it was an oil pressure gage on the panel it was in. Works just fine.



On edit: Don, from the number of sender failures I've read about and seen, I believe the sender needs a pulse damper, like the needle valve. I haven't bought an electric gage, but the instructions with one should say if it requires a damper. If they don't, I'd put one on anyway.



Hope this helps, Tom
 
Don/Tx, there are two cast in bosses on top of the filter housing.

That's where I drilled & tapped them 1/8" NPT.

I dont have any good pics, didnt have a digi camera when I did it, and it's not in a good spot to photo right now.
 
Thanks, that should be enough to get me on it, thanks for that information.

Don/Tx, there are two cast in bosses on top of the filter housing.

That's where I drilled & tapped them 1/8" NPT.

I dont have any good pics, didnt have a digi camera when I did it, and it's not in a good spot to photo right now.
 
I spent the weekend installing three Glowshift gauges on my '98 (Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and transmission Temp).

My experience has been that electric FP senders are killed by a combination of physical engine vibrations and pressure spikes from the injection pump. I installed an Omega snubber at the tapped banjo bolt to protect the sender from pressure spikes. I then used 30" Goodyear grease gun hoses to protect the sender from physical vibrations. On the firewall I used a custom bracket to mount the sender and a 1/8" NPT brass tee to bleed air from the line. So far it's working great, but time will tell if the sender goes the distance.
 
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