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Crossover Steering on a non lifted truck?

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Ok, I have looked for this answer in a couple spots but haven't found what I need. I have a non-lifted 3/4 ton. I am planning on doing the ORD Xover steering swap but currently don't have the truck lifted. It looks like clearances would be tight. Does anyone have any experience running the ORD crossover setup without a lift? The truck would not be seeing any major suspension articulation until a lift was installed. I just need to know if I can get only the steering done and then add the lift or If I would have to do both at the same time.
 
ORD has a nice kit.

I dont think the pitman arm would clear the spring. If it did clear and you went to lift it later youd probably need a longer draglink. id knock it out all at once and save messing with it later.



just my 0. 02.
 
I have seen several threads here and around regarding cross over steering. WHat gets changed and what is the advantage of cross-over vs stock steering?



Daniel
 
what gets changed is the stupid Bracket that the box bolt's to before going onto frame and also the worthless draglink

what you get is a arm that bolts onto the right knuckle and then a new pitman arm and link to hook to right wheel makes the truck turn totally different

and IMO it's worth ever dime I did One on my crewcab it even held up when I rolled it back in Jan only thing that broke was steering box it's self
 
Daniel;

On a 4x4 truck there is a short drag link from the steering box to the left front wheel. It pushed forward and backward on the steering arm to steer the truck. On a stock truck on flat ground this works OK, but add larger tires, taller springs, then go offroad, this short link can easily bind up when the suspension is flexed. Theres been times I've had to turn the steering all the way one direction to keep going straight, as the drag link is too short and as the axle droops, it starts to steer the front tires.



On crossover you put the steering box on like a 2wd, and then you make a crossover steering draglink that actually hooks to the right steering knuckle. Like what Ford has been doing since the 70's and how the newer dodges are. Now when the front end flexes, the longer draglink has a better arc and doesn't change the steering as badly. For some reason the trucks I've put crossover on tend to steer easier also, I think the leverage is better.



Now, in my experiance, a stock truck does not have enough clearance for crossover steering. My 75 dodge with a 4" lift would hit the pitman arm on the springs, and the draglink would hit the crossmember when flexed. When I put it on my 90, I put a drop in the draglink and it has a 6" lift and it seems to work well, without hitting anything. Like above I suggest you get your parts for the lift and the steering and do it all at once. I do have pics of the crossover on my 75 in the readers rigs.



Michael
 
Thanks for the explanation, guys. I have had 2 4x4s, but never paid that much attention to the steering, as the only 4-wheeling I ever did was on I-25 in the snow, and had few other issues. Hardly put anything in a bind there.



Sory to hijack the thread, but I had to ask, and thought someone else may benefit from the explanation as well.



Daniel
 
Just don't expect it to keep the frame from cracking behind the box. My 81 1/2 ton 2wd shortbox w/slant six still broke out the frame. That's as light as you can make one of these trucks, but with 265/70/15's it still cracked up. I wound up building a plate like a 4wd that mounts to the inside of the rail instead for the box to bolt through to reinforce it. I also noticed that the rivets in the front crossmember were failing and replaced them with grade 8 frame bolts from a truck service shop. It lasted about 1 1/2 years til I bought my 90. I have considered the crossover steering setup for my crew, but since I'm only planning a 2" lift it probably won't work for me.
 
Just don't expect it to keep the frame from cracking behind the box. My 81 1/2 ton 2wd shortbox w/slant six still broke out the frame. That's as light as you can make one of these trucks, but with 265/70/15's it still cracked up. I wound up building a plate like a 4wd that mounts to the inside of the rail instead for the box to bolt through to reinforce it. I also noticed that the rivets in the front crossmember were failing and replaced them with grade 8 frame bolts from a truck service shop. It lasted about 1 1/2 years til I bought my 90. I have considered the crossover steering setup for my crew, but since I'm only planning a 2" lift it probably won't work for me.

A VERY strong fix- Crossover steering - The loose ends. Just needs better welds

MADDOG
 
That is pretty much my plan for the crew if I can get crossover to line up with only a 2" lift. On my 2wd I used short sleeves welded inside frame and a 3/16 plate that went from the large holes front and rear of box location on the frame and bolted it in with the 2 extra bolts(3/4"?). It was by far not perfect, but it was my first frame repair.
 
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