Need tips on doing front shocks, and brakes.

[MStrain]

My front passenger brake started squealing pretty bad 3 days ago, and I just ordered new front Bilstien shocks from Geno's, so I pulled the passenger tire and the pads are down to about 1/8". So the brakes should be a piece of cake, I am gonna turn the rotors and swap the pads. What pads are the best, I was thinking about getting the EBC Yellow Stuff pads but I am open to suggestions. As far as the shocks they look straight forward but I would appreciate some tips before I do the job, thanks.

 

[JHardwick]

I never turn rotors and use Mopar pads ... ... ... ... . the shocks are as straight forward as they look.

 

[Matt400]

If I were going to use that brand I myself would opt for the red stuff for less dusting and possibly a more quiet operation. I wouldn't turn the rotors because thinner rotors are more susceptible to warping. In our shop turning is old school, if the rotor is damaged we replace it because the thicker the rotor the better, especially in the mountains and where towing is involved.



Open the bleeder to compress the piston so you don't push contaminated fluid that settles to the low point in the system back up into the ABS components.



Other than that, Raybestos #PGD965M is a premium semi-metallic pad that should perform just as well as the oem's did and available at most auto parts stores & online.

 

[MMeier]

With almost 200k on the stock pads on the '03, I think I'll be using Mopar pads as well when the time comes due.

 

[MStrain]

Wow, 200k, I have 32k on my pads with almost no towing, and they are done.

 

[Matt400]

That's a first for me to hear. In our area most 3rd gens are getting at least 80K and some well over 100K on the first set, mountain driving auto's or sticks

 

[BGlidewell]

Shocks: Lift the front so you dont have to fight to compress the shocks on install.

 

[MStrain]

Thanks for the tips guys, bleed the brake fluid out the bleeder valve when compressing the caliper, smart, and by lift the front I assume you mean jackstands under the frame rails so the axle is hanging, also smart. Any other tips, I am gonna do this tommorrow after work.

 

[RPosey]

Install shocks

It could save a lot of effort on shock removal if you use a wire brush on all exposed threads, cleans the road grit out.

 

[JHardwick]

Shocks: Lift the front so you dont have to fight to compress the shocks on install.

Just use some wire ties before removing any hardware.

 

[JHardwick]

With almost 200k on the stock pads on the '03, I think I'll be using Mopar pads as well when the time comes due.

They are less dusty too ... ... ..... or at least the dust is less corrosive on wheel covers.

 

[MMeier]

They are less dusty too ... ... ..... or at least the dust is less corrosive on wheel covers.

If you have such things!!!:-laf

 

[MStrain]

What do you mean wire ties, what do I need to ziptie?

 

[JKloppe]

Good pads (hawk,ebc or... ) makes it feel like your truck is half the weight it really is. It is additional safety factor for me to have better breaks, I would spend twice the money I did.



It seems like my oem made just as much dust.

 

[JHardwick]

If you have such things!!!:-laf

LOL, are you still running in true hot hotter form, with no wheel covers, hehe

 

[JHardwick]

What do you mean wire ties, what do I need to ziptie?

I used wire ties to keep the shocks from extending, by tying them together top/bottom before I unbolted the tower.

 

[MStrain]

Well opening the bleeder valve while I was compressing the pistons in the calipers is not a good idea, I did that and was careful but I still got air in the brake lines, so now I have no brakes, I will have to bleed them tommorrow after work, luckily I don't have to drive tommorrow. I have never done that before when doing brake pads and I will never do it again. I also swapped the shocks, that went pretty easy, I put jackstands under the frame rails so that I wouldn't have to compress the shocks while I was bolting them in. It helps to have swivel adaptors for your ratchets and lots of extensions, makes things a little easier, also I luckily had a set of hex sockets for the Bilsteins. I also did an oil change and fuel filter, but that was uneventful. I will post the difference of the Bilsteins verse the stock shocks tommorrow after my truck is driveable, the whole job took four hours. Thanks for the advice, except for the tip on the bleeder valve, unless I missed something.

 

[Matt400]

Sorry you felt it was a bad tip but air is much better than having to buy an ABS unit damaged from forcing fluid back through it. Those units are not serviceable. To keep the air out you would close the bleeder as the piston reaches then end, then once its all assembled you would open it one more time for a gravity flow to prove only fluid and no air comes out.



Once you have done this you have to realize that the piston is now all the way in so when you assemble the brakes you wont have any pedal the first time. You need to work the pedal a few times to move the piston and brake pads out to the caliper, maybe that is why you think you have air.

 

[MA2LA]

how many miles can you expect out off the hawk pads. I got 40 out of the stock and will get almost 40 out of weaver( i think thats whats on it now) and the stock one put out much less dust than the latest pads.

 

[rbattelle]

Sorry you felt it was a bad tip but air is much better than having to buy an ABS unit damaged from forcing fluid back through it. Those units are not serviceable. To keep the air out you would close the bleeder as the piston reaches then end, then once its all assembled you would open it one more time for a gravity flow to prove only fluid and no air comes out.

Once you have done this you have to realize that the piston is now all the way in so when you assemble the brakes you wont have any pedal the first time. You need to work the pedal a few times to move the piston and brake pads out to the caliper, maybe that is why you think you have air.

Matt, I've heard the advice to open the bleeder when compressing the piston before - and it sounds like a good idea.

But I've never done it, and never had a problem with the ABS. Have I just been lucky?

The reason I ask is I don't want to replace all my calipers when it's time for new pads... remember this? I still haven't touched any of the other brake bleeders because I know what's going to happen.

Ryan