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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Yellowing headlights

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We have seen a lot of posts about the rotten yellowing of 2nd gen headlights. Well try this!!! Mr. Clean Magic Eraser [found in household sections of markets or Wal*Mart]. This really works. What a difference and basically no cost and no headlight removal. Just rub hard and the yellow is gone. Oo. Merry Christmas & Safe Travels--Dutch
 
man, cant wait to try that, i had the clear turn signals put on and really noticed how yellow the headlights were. I was going to replace them, glad I saw this post!
 
the problem is the coating on the plastic is gone and as soon as you clean it it starts oxidizing again, what i do is sand down to clean and clear plastic and clear coat it, rattle can clear coat works fine, you can polish them with a wool buff and compound but they start turning yellow again. been dealing with this on euro cars for a while now
 
You can also go the route i went. I hit a deer the week before Thanksgiving and had to have everthing except the sheetmetal replaced on the front end of my truck. New headlights-wo-ho. Randy:rolleyes:
 
the problem is the coating on the plastic is gone and as soon as you clean it it starts oxidizing again, what i do is sand down to clean and clear plastic and clear coat it, rattle can clear coat works fine, you can polish them with a wool buff and compound but they start turning yellow again. been dealing with this on euro cars for a while now
I'd like to try this. Does it matter what type and grit sandpaper?



Thanks,

Dave
 
you don't want anything that's going to leave scratches, maybe something like 400 wetdry on a palm sander/da, you can polish it after the sanding and it will look awesome but it doesn't last
 
I have always used Mothers Mag and Aluminum Wheel polish and a hard wax afterwards. It takes the yellowing out and after they are waxed usually they stay nice for a long time... ... Andy
 
I'd like to try this. Does it matter what type and grit sandpaper?



Thanks,

Dave



You can actually start at 360 wet and work your way all the way up to 1500. Then finish with a wax. That is what I did on some really bad ones (Volvo). They look like new when you are done. Just use lots of water and dont stay in one spot for too long. You can actually see what you are taking off.



I like the eraser idea. I have never heard that one. Maybe do this first and see how it looks? Then go from there. Sounds like a great idea if it really works!!



Some auto parts stores sell a polishing kit for a drill. I have used those before too. I liked the result with sanding much better. However the sanding is a lot more work by comparison.



. 02
 
Sounds like a good idea to try. I have a small Mothers Ball for a drill. I'll try that after sanding. I've already done the Summit Headlight wiring harness to bypass the headlight switch.



Thanks, Guys,

Dave
 
I have used the permatex kit and it works great. All it is sand paper, you start out with 1000 wet dry sand papper. Soak the sand paper in water then start sanding in one direction, then go to the 1500 grit and sand in the other direction, on to the 2000 grit sand in the other direction, then on to the 2500 grit and sand in the other direction. make sure the sand paper is always wet. When you finish sanding take rubbing compound over your lights to finish, then put a good coat of wax on your lights. My lights looked like new ones. You can save your self money by going to a auto paint supply place and just by the sand paper for about 1/3 the cost of the kit, one sheet each will do several vehicle 1000,1500,2000,2500 wet/dry sand paper.
 
I've seen a picture of a Permatex product for yellowing headlight lenses. Has anybody tried it? Is it worth a pinch?

I have bought said kit and it works great. It's a lot of sand paper then this plastic polishing compound stuff. If it wasn't for the compound stuff, which is actually a liquid, then you could just do it with sand paper.

For me, $14 well spent. I did have very very bad yellow headlights. I plan on doing it again soon, but using a dremel to take off the plastic "nubs" so that it is easier to polish.

After polishing I then added a set of sylvania silverstar ultra bulbs and I have 10x brighter lights. I have to admit that I think the polishing did the most good, but the bulbs definitely did not hurt.
 
... but using a dremel to take off the plastic "nubs" so that it is easier to polish...



Those plastic nubs are for mounting headlight aiming/alignment equipment. Not really a big deal since once they're set you really don't need to mess with the alignment. More likely to need it if some body work gets done on the front end in which case the headlights are probably going to get replaced too :).



Glad I saw this thread, my headlights are a mess. I think I'll go with the permatex kit too.



Mike
 
after a lite sanding you can hit em with a wool pad on a rotary buffer and the same compound you buff paint, they will look great but the plastic needs something to keep it from oxidizing or it'll turn yellow in a year, for longer results i like a rougher sand paper to leave a little texture and remove the bad plastic and hit it with some clear coat, i have some lights on a bmw that are a good year old since i did the clear and they look like the day i did them
 
When I bought my truck I put the plastic shields over the lights. No yellowing in 6 yrs.

There is a co. in Florida that sells a yellow removal kit. The LAST step is a polish that coats the plastic to retard the yellowing.

Worked great on my wifes 98 Sable.
 
I use "Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 17- Clear Plastic Cleaner". Works like a polish. Excellent for polishing plastic instrument cluster lenses and plastic lens eyeglasses too!
 
I used the lens renew, it worked great. I did it about two years ago and its not time to do it again. The kit comes with enough stuff to do more than just one set of lights.
 
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