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Full transmission flush or just filter & pan at 80k

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replace 12-90009 with what amsoil eaAU

H/D Extended Life 48re's through Dodge

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I've searched the forums about the pros and cons of doing a full flush vs, just the filter and dropping the pan. My question is I bought my truck used with 80k miles on it and the dealer shows no service done for the transmission, would it be better to not stir things up with a full flush and just change the filter and 4 or 5 quarts in the pan? Some of the posts I read seem to state that if nothing has been done for this long it's best to leave it alone. I just bought a 11k lb. 5er and will be towing more now and want to make sure the transmission is up to it. I have had no problems out of it in the last 6 months since I bought it.



Thanks!
 
I just got the drain filter refill with band adjustment at 85,000 miles. The dealer didn't mention a flush. I wouldn't do a flush. I want the pan dropped and cleaned with a new filter and band adjustment. You don't get that with a flush do you?
Mike
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My recommendation is to drop the pan, change the filter and refill.



You could get a Mag-Hytec or PML trans pan and then drain and refill very easily after a 1000 miles or so to get more of the "old" stuff out



-OR - for a cheaper solution



You could get one of those drain plugs from Geno's and install it while the pan is off so you drain it easier next time.





If you reuse the stock pan,

If you wait approx 2 days after the truck is parked and not restarted, you will need approx 8. 25 qts to refill the trans if you drop the pan and change the filter. I would use synthetic ATF+4. Valvoline makes it for $4. 99/qt.



The Mopar ATF+4 is dino oil and it costs like $13/qt.



Don't add all 8. 25 qts when you refill, add like 7. 75 qts and then check it after the trans is warmed up, with the trans in neutral.



You will probably notice alot of "black" residue on your magnet in your pan. This is normal, just clean it off with brake cleaner.



Hope this helps,



Louis
 
The Mopar ATF+4 is synthetic. You can get it all Wal-Mart for about $4. 50 a quart depending on your location. I just pick up a case for $4. 42 a quart last night.
 
Mopar ATF+4 is a Group THREE not a Group FOUR synthetic like Amsoil etc. There is a differance. Mainly in the amount of time between changes. Group three the usage life is shorter. Bob Is The Oil Guy for more details.
 
Guys, am I missing something or isn't there a 30k interval for fluid replacement on the 48re? I've ALWAYS (at least a dozen times) had a complete fluid exchange done along with a new filter and band adjustment. I am pretty sure this is what is in the manual. Changing just a few quarts by dropping the pan doesn't seem sound to me. The fluid is only as good as the worst of it left in there. Why not renew it all? How are you going to disturb anything? The transmission is pumping fluid around under pressure already, fresh fluid is only going to improve performance.
 
The Mopar ATF+4 is synthetic. You can get it all Wal-Mart for about $4. 50 a quart depending on your location. I just pick up a case for $4. 42 a quart last night.



I'm looking at a bottle of ATF+4 that I bought at the dealer when they changed my trans fluid. part number is 05013457AA.



It reads "specially formulated from Very High VI (VHVI) base stock and a unique additive package"



Unless it says synthetic on the bottle, I don't think it is.
 
I think the NON SEVERE usage is 100k or there abouts. Fliud exchange machines best thing to ever happen to a automatic transmisson since its invention.
 
I'm looking at a bottle of ATF+4 that I bought at the dealer when they changed my trans fluid. part number is 05013457AA.



It reads "specially formulated from Very High VI (VHVI) base stock and a unique additive package"



Unless it says synthetic on the bottle, I don't think it is.



It better be synthetic, 10qts cost me $89. 74. I'd get rid of the Mag-Hytec, but I like the drain plug.
 
If you guys get a new torque converter, it will more than likely have a drain plug in it (mine does) and then you can drain all but about maybe a half pint out of the transmission
 
I also say No trans flush. The machine probably DOESN'T have ATF+4 in it so you will get half straight ATF. It also has been known to dislodge crap that can get caught up in the valve body. I am in favor of the band adjust at that time. It is very hard for me to trust some trans shop to do the adjust. It is easy once you do it once. Only special tool that is needed is an inch pound torque wrench.
 
I also say No trans flush. The machine probably DOESN'T have ATF+4 in it so you will get half straight ATF. It also has been known to dislodge crap that can get caught up in the valve body. I am in favor of the band adjust at that time. It is very hard for me to trust some trans shop to do the adjust. It is easy once you do it once. Only special tool that is needed is an inch pound torque wrench.



First, there is a factory approved additive that can be added to regular ATF that brings it up to spec. Both of my '03s were on Havoline ATF with this additive for 100k miles each with no issues, and lots of max and beyond towing.



Second, those machines use whatever you fill them with. It isn't brain surgery to drain whatever is in there and run what you prefer. If you get half and half the operator is a moron. I have used my buddies Snap On flusher many times, it is pretty hard to screw up.



Third, do you honestly think that machine uses more pressure than the pumps in the trans generate themselves? I think NOT. I have never heard of one causing problems, and I have been around a bunch of different vehicles that have been through this. If it does knock crud loose, the crud gets pumped out or gets caught in the new filter. Unless the trans is already damaged, they run extremely clean inside, especially if you do the factory required maint;)



Urban legend, a full flush is not only required by the manufacturer, it is by far the best way to maintain any auto trans.
 
Is there a write up anywhere on band adjustment. i'm at 73 k so I'm getting close and I think a new valve body will be going in this time.
 
Thanks for all the good advise. It looks like I'll be either doing a flush myself or take it in for one. I would like to get a drain plug from Geno's and install in the pan when I drop it and change the filter if I do it all myself. Those of you that do a flush do you do it yourself or take it in for one? Is it that hard? Is it worth doing it yourself?

MA2LA - I'm with you, is there a write up or some info on doing the band adjustments?
 
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