Competition traction bars/ladder bars

[DIESELWRKS]

thanks I like that idea of making the frame stronger and not getting crushed. I know now what traction bar to go with. but I now still tool with idea of getting a new dever spring pack before I do this.

but that would be a different thread.



thanks

 

[V-Metalworx]

DIESELWRKS and MVandever...

The current bars on my truck are the EEP bars,or whats left of them anyway. The only EEP built parts left are the rear mounts and the shackles up front. I did not weld the shackles on my frame as I wasn't sure if I liked the look at first. When the initial install was done and I got home a local chassis man removed the front shackles and welded tubes into the places where the bolts slipped through the frame for strength. This way when they were properly torqued down it did not crush the frame at all and they stayed where they werer supposed to and did not egg shape the holes. I have the top bars but you can not run them on the street as it makes for a rigid mount and not much rear suspension give.



The original EEP lower bars on my truck were bent bad when the truck was lifted for transmission work. Seems they were a little thinner than what they should have been and it also explains why so many have been bent in a single bar form. The bars we replaced them with were built by East Coast Diesel Performance's chassis man and are strong.



For simplicity... .

Darryl Poole's bars can not be beaten,period. They are tough as nails and will handle any abuse you can through at them and are used by many Midwest pullers. Again,having to do it over I would have kept my originals and been done with it... ..... Andy

I didn't know his stuff was so bad you'd think someone who charged so much money for parts would have really good stuff I didn't like his frame mount either I would't buy his bars I just liked the shackel up front I didn't know the four bar system would make it riged I can't find the pictures I have of their bars If I remeber right the shackel in the front had the two bars mounted in two different holes one on top and one on bottom that could be why they are so ridged what would happen if you had both bars mounted in the same hole?

 

[Hammer]

MVandever...

Let me correct you on this as to not confuse anyone...

I NEVER said Poole's bars were bad,I said repeatedly that I made the switch for looks reasons only. I do really like the longer bars look on our trucks much better than the shorter versions,plus,it allows one a better traction aid by moving the instant center further forward. Also,the longer bars attach to the strong point of the frame where it is double walled and able to withstand a bit more than the shorter bars.



The EEP bars were designed for pulling with pullers in mind,not daily driving or occasional trips to the track. When you add the second bar it allows one to not have to block the rear suspension although many still do in classes where its allowed. Many of the local associations out here do not allow blocked suspensions in the lower street classes and this is one way to move around that rule,along with a different rear spring pack.



DIESELWRKS. .

If you not planning on pulling all the time and still drive your truck daily have a extra leaf added to the rear main pack. I had mine done out in Ohio by EEP's spring shop and the cost was very reasonable. I did that because after leveling the front with the Skyjacker D25 coils my truck looked like it was sitting uphill. So while out there last year I had the rear raised 2 inches to place the back a bit taller than the front. Knowing now what the coils did to the front I would not have leveled it at all and should have left it alone,LOL. It does have a nice stance now since its finished... ... . Andy

 

[DIESELWRKS]

I have a add-leaf with my lift and 6 inch blocks it helps but I may look at a whole leif pack for a six inch lift. I would do pulls if I had the location I once lived in missouri and there were lots of pulls going on. not so much in southern oregon. but I do to much daily driving to get radical with bars I may not need.

thanks for the reply.

 

[Joe Mc]

I noticed on the ladder bars I've seen in the post that most are solid (adj length w/heim joints) and a few seem to have a shackle at the front/frame mount.



*It appears the shackle type wouldn't force the rear housing to twist a bit either way as the truck suspension moves up and down, hence keeping the pinion angle true.

*Whereas the fixed length type (solid mounted to frame and either top or bottom of the housing) seems that it would force the housing to rotate a bit.



QUESTION: What, if any, are the differences between the two - other than what my observations listed above?



Shackle type: Will it control/eliminate axle wrap under hard acceleration while maintaining correct pinion angle?



Fixed length type: Will it control/eliminate axle wrap under hard acceleration forcing pinion angle to change? If so, would angle change drastically and create other damage in the long run?



Previously I've only used traction bars on hot rod cars w/leaf springs, never had a coil and link suspension on car hot rods before.



Thanks

 

[SRadke]

I would do pulls if I had the location I once lived in missouri and there were lots of pulls going on. not so much in southern oregon.

Lebanon Strawberry festival pull June 7-8.



The bars I just out together are the "shackel" type as you've described. After 700+ miles of driving this weekend I've decided I can't tell the diffrence in ride and they are nice and smooth down the sled pull track. I'm 100% satisfied with my results so far. Hooking up a trailer for another 1000 miles this week, we'll see if it they did anything for the launch shudder.



-Scott

 

[DIESELWRKS]

pulls

thanks didnt know they had them there. thats were I recently got my ticket for crossing a intersection on a yellow with a trailer. I guess I should just ask all of the members that live in oregon for pull info. since I have left the Marines the only people I knew dealing with our trucks was Rip up in milwaukie. and I know you know him.



thanks. .

 

[Tomeygun]

has anyone looked the the model 20200 Superlift traction bars? At about $470 a set for the single bar and totally bolt on, thats seems pretty good...



And they stress that they are proper length to mimic the radius that the axle moves on.



BUT are the strong enough? Does anyone run them?



I guess my main hangup is that you cant deny geometry, the bar needs to be a very specif length to allow the axle to follow it intended path with moving from full droop to full stuff



But what is that length?

 

[Hammer]

Tomeygun...

Whats wrong with the GDP Bars that are made for the 3rd generation trucks?.



Or you could contact LazarSmith for some...

Traction Bars



I also know that East Coast Diesel(717-861-7525) sells ladder bars out here and you could call Ladell or Lamar and ask about them... ... . Andy

 

[Tomeygun]

Tomeygun...

Whats wrong with the GDP Bars that are made for the 3rd generation trucks?.



Or you could contact LazarSmith for some...

Traction Bars



I also know that East Coast Diesel(717-861-7525) sells ladder bars out here and you could call Ladell or Lamar and ask about them... ... . Andy

ahh, good questions - GDP are no longer made, talked to Richard about a week ago. They are coming out with a single bar setup...



Lazarsmith looks REALLY stout, but a bit much $$ for me (600-800?).



I found the superlift kit for $450 to my door... So I went with it. Oo.

 

[Tomeygun]

Good news / Bad news time:



bad news is I got the kit yesterday and it was previously installed... AND was missing the passenger axle bracket, but had 2 drivers side brackets. I called and a new kit is on the way, the old one back on the truck on thier dime...



GOOD news is that the kit looks VERY well built in terms of the attachment points to the axle and frame. The bars do look pretty nice as well, though I did not note the wall thickness of the bars. I look forward to getting my new kit



Attached is a little camera phone spy shot