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12 valve intake plenum w/grid delete done

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MADS, Smarty (jr) ???

new place for exhaust and bends and stuff

Send them to me if you want Stefan - also any of the new fuel pump too, if you have any ready to go.



Send them as LARGE, and as high resolution as possible - might have to send individually or in groups to not exceed file size limits for hotmail.



-- email address removed --
 
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Well... . it's later where are they??? :-laf



Stefan, sent you a e-mail with my number and email addy got 2 12V's sitting out front one has a banks thingy on it, I'd like to see what your does on the other ;);)



Down boy, DOWN! :-laf:-laf



How are thing's in "Sheep town USA"?



Gonna be out your way in a bit over a week, sure wish there was a dyno day or other get-together going on...
 
OK - for that Kid in Dixon, and others interested, here's some pics of the intake for the undervalved gang:



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Direct specific questions to Stefan.
 
Down boy, DOWN! :-laf:-laf



How are thing's in "Sheep town USA"?



Gonna be out your way in a bit over a week, sure wish there was a dyno day or other get-together going on...



Hey there Gary!!!



Same ole' stuff... . you know how it goes :-laf



If you can put off your trip for a month maybe you could work in the J&H event in Redding, should be a heck of a show end of June! Whenever your down this way feel free maybe I could buy ya lunch sometime!
 
Wow, that's pretty. How does it start in colder temps without the grids? (Although, since it is now May, I suppose that can't be answered real accurately).



CTD12V
 
Wow, that's pretty. How does it start in colder temps without the grids? (Although, since it is now May, I suppose that can't be answered real accurately).



CTD12V



Maybe a more pointed question is, at what lower temps do grid heaters REALLY provide needed benefit? As supplied, OEM, it seems like they operate at temps FAR above that necessary to actually start and drive the vehicle with apparent reliability and efficiency. Maybe operation in temps above freezing are more an EPA/emissions thing, than actual requirement for decent engine function?



Here in our part of Eastern Oregon, I never wait for the heaters to cycle from zero degrees on up - without any discernible adverse effects on engine starting or running. Actually, I'd be far more sensitive to loss of the block heater function and lube warming than grid heaters, at least in our specific climate.



As far as I'm concerned, here where we live, the grid heaters are an unnecessary and unwanted drain on the batteries and electrical system that I don't miss in the slightest.



Obviously, owners in far colder climates will have a different view... ;)
 
Hey Gary,



Was this on your truck? I got confused and thought it was on Stefan's truck. I saw the "BC" in his location, so that is why I asked the question. Now that I Googled "Chilliwack", I see that it probably is in a fairly moderate climate, just east of Vancouver. I agree, I think the grid heaters are mostly an emissions thing for milder temps. I also know that my truck won't start very easily in colder temps (< 15 deg. F) without the grids.



CTD12V
 
The pics further up in this thread were supplied by Stefan - all I did was post them for him - they are NOT of my truck.





Here's what it looks like on my 24 valve truck:



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Can you keep the grid heaters if you choose?

(the picture makes it look like you can retain them since "DTT" block appears removable).

Still not convinced I want to lose mine yet.
 
Can you keep the grid heaters if you choose?



(the picture makes it look like you can retain them since "DTT" block appears removable).



Still not convinced I want to lose mine yet.



By all means, you can keep the grid heaters in place and in operation - I still have mine stored away - "just in case"... :-laf



It's just that they probably aren't really needed by about 90% of truck owners, and there SHOULD be significant additional power improvement in removing them and installing the "no grid" DTT adapter - but we're still waiting for dyno test results that provide actual evidence and numbers, on both 2nd and 3rd generation trucks...
 
Got it, thanks. . Even living in so cal, still take trips to where its cold. I figure they mostly are just causing the alternator to wear out a little quicker. Thats not too big of a deal IMO. Can also devise a relay/mini-toggle combo to turn their relays off if wanted (just dont want to spike the ecm while throwing the switch). Their upside is or may be, do they help keep deposits out of the exhaust path?? Thats kind of hypocritical coming from someone that brags about how he burns used motor oil, gear oil, transmission oil, etc though. :rolleyes:

Either way, with them connected, better make sure those batteries are well maintained in case of a really cold start. Powering grid heaters and turning a cold motor over while the cells are cold will be a very good load test indeed. Low volts, could equal a fried ecm or vp controller.

But. . Maybe the dyno will show it is worth it to remove them after all.

Bottom line, that intake is pure artwork. . :)
 
no grids on either of my trucks... no performance difference that I could see



UMMmmmm - and exactly WHERE were you looking for a power increase Forrest, seat of your pants, or a dyno... ? :-laf:-laf



The improved intake is supposedly worth perhaps 30 HP - the grid delete will likely be merely a percentage of that - probably nothing even the most sensitive butt would register - but if it's another 5-10 HP. might be worth it for $50 or so, compared with the power-per-$$$ of other commonly available power adders... ;)
 
I have not had grid heaters in my 94 since about 96. It is not cold where I live but I have started it down to about 0 degrees where I have traveled. I never did a before and after dyno.



Bob
 
I have not had grid heaters in my 94 since about 96. It is not cold where I live but I have started it down to about 0 degrees where I have traveled. I never did a before and after dyno.



Bob



Perhaps it's not clear, the DTT grid-delete is NOT simply disconnection of power to the OEM grids, OR physically removing them from the OEM housing, but rather a custom milled and shaped transition piece between the SS intake that REMOVES the OEM grid unit in total, replacing it with THIS:



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Perhaps it's not clear, the DTT grid-delete is NOT simply disconnection of power to the OEM grids, OR physically removing them from the OEM housing, but rather a custom milled and shaped transition piece between the SS intake that REMOVES the OEM grid unit in total, replacing it with THIS:



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.





I know;),I have Stephans # on my cell :cool:



Bob
 
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