Transmission Cooler

[Bernie]

I'm thinking of adding an auto trans cooler. Any suggestions? Tips on install?

 

[cerberusiam]

Waste of time and money, your truck doesn't need it.



Spending the money upgrading the trans will give you a much higher return.

 

[Bernie]

Waste of time and money, your truck doesn't need it.



Spending the money upgrading the trans will give you a much higher return.

I should have included my trans plans:

-I was at an excellent trans shop in Allegany, NY yesterday (R&R Transmission).

-After looking at all the options, I am going to have R&R replace my TC and either modify my valve body or replace it with an upgraded one.

-Per the owner of R&R (Kevin), a cooler is not a bad investment for towing

 

[MA2LA]

I would add a double deep pan before I added another cooler

 

[cerberusiam]

I should have included my trans plans:

-I was at an excellent trans shop in Allegany, NY yesterday (R&R Transmission).

-After looking at all the options, I am going to have R&R replace my TC and either modify my valve body or replace it with an upgraded one.

-Per the owner of R&R (Kevin), a cooler is not a bad investment for towing

How heavy are you towing?



You would be further ahead spending the money on a TC lockup controller that would help with fluid temps. If towing, use a good triple disk converter and a decent VB build that does not hit the lockup hard. Add a lockup controller like ATS's commander or BD's version that will allow lockup down to 20 mph.



90% of the heat in these transmissions is created in the TC during fluid coupling. All the coolers in the world will not stop the temps from spiking under a heavy load. Getting the TC locked up quickly is the most effective route.



It is not reccomended to add another cooler to the stock system as the cooler return line is trans lube and cooling. There is not a lot of excess flow and adding more length and/or restriction severely impacts the lube to critical pieces. If you need a cooler, a seperate pump drawing from and returning to the pan is the most effective.



The stock coolinng system seems to be quite effective up to around 30k GVW before its possible to heat soak things. There are of course events that can lead to problems at lighter weights but usually are uncommon. If you control the fluid coupling and use your gears effectively temps are generally not a problem, and, adding extra fluid with a deep pan is as good a help as any.



Highly advisable to remove the check ball in the cooler line once the VB has been modded to circulate fluid in park also. The more fluid you can circulate the better it is.





My common . 02 cents.