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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Intermitent problem...crazy!

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater/ pre-heater

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OK, I have an intermitent problem that is driving me crazy. She started to just die out on me, miss at higher RPMs, hard starting, checked fuel filter for water as I had to fuel off a friends farm tank. It had some water in it, so I drained the filter, and got home with no problems. Changed fuel filter, put in some additive, and all seemed well, performance good, starting good, thought that was it. . Couple of weeks later, went to start it, hard start again! Checked all fuel lines and fuel return line, changed heater, changed pre filter screen, checked filter for water again, none... All seemed fine again, started good, ran fine. . Went out a week later, started fine, hooked up trailer, loaded ATVs, stuff, and it hard started again! Drove it to the mountains, ran good, seemed a tad laggy on throttle response, but, pulls same boost as always 32-35#, and started the rest of the day, no problem. . I am now going to check pressure at filter, fuel pressure spring, and shutoff solenoid, anything else you guys can think of?
 
Contaminated Fuel

Could start rusting injection pump components,check the check valve in the return line might be sticking or have debris in it. If the check valve sticks open it does not allow the injection pump to fill completely causing hard starts.
 
my truck is doign the exact same thing. 95 CTD auto trans, long bed... mine wont idle, and is VVEERRYY hard starting, to the point where you need to pump it to get it running. but it comes and goes. i have no clue what it is. my gas pettle gets very hard to push. the rpm's are everywhere. like it misses... ... .
 
Going to

Could start rusting injection pump components,check the check valve in the return line might be sticking or have debris in it. If the check valve sticks open it does not allow the injection pump to fill completely causing hard starts.



Going to check it first. I don't think there could be any rust, this is the first I have ever found any water in her, I check filter drain regularly, the strainer had some heavys (sand) in it, and the heater had the typical burn around the contacts, which made me believe I had the problem solved. . I might as well change out my return line while I am doing the check and spring. . It has been in service for four years, I used marine hose and wrapped in 5/8 heater hose for heat protection. .
 
Ball pitted...

Well, I might have found the problem, the ball on the overflow is pitted pretty bad, found no contamination, however no pressure at valve when I pulled it, this leads me to believe that it is bleeding down.



Any source for ball and spring?
 
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Has to be...

OK, new overflow in, still there, new return line, new strainer, new heater, still have a problem! Finally look at the 3/8 fuel feed line to the transfer pump, geez, thought I changed it last year, STILL ORIGINAL! Pulled it, changed it, looked it over and detoriation had a small area near the clamp full of pin holes. Fired her up, runs great, alaways look for the simple solution... . Thanks to all. .
 
CF. .

The fuel feed line on my 98 looked like swiss cheese when we did the FASS install. I haven't yet done the return line but will be ridding myself of the factory one as soon as the bigger braided feed line come in for the pump. I know its not long for the world either after many years of PA chemical salts here in the winter. Forgot about TST and them having the OFV. Glad to hear your up and going again... ... Andy
 
Return line..

CF. .

The fuel feed line on my 98 looked like swiss cheese when we did the FASS install. I haven't yet done the return line but will be ridding myself of the factory one as soon as the bigger braided feed line come in for the pump. I know its not long for the world either after many years of PA chemical salts here in the winter. Forgot about TST and them having the OFV. Glad to hear your up and going again... ... Andy



I put a piece of marine hose on my return line last time, then I wrapped it in 5/8 heater hose, this was three years ago. I had only about two years out of standard return line, it was in pretty good shape this time. Still flexible, and could have stayed on awhile longer. I went ahead and changed it though being under the truck that far and fighting the problems. .



Do you like your FASS system? Did you take your old transfer pump off, or leave it in line? I think I can do without for now, not pushing big numbers, just keeping up with the new ones. . I have heard all the hype on the FASS systems, I would have one if I was running a overvalved engine. . :D
 
OK, new overflow in, still there, new return line, new strainer, new heater, still have a problem! Finally look at the 3/8 fuel feed line to the transfer pump, geez, thought I changed it last year, STILL ORIGINAL! Pulled it, changed it, looked it over and detoriation had a small area near the clamp full of pin holes. Fired her up, runs great, alaways look for the simple solution... . Thanks to all. .



Had same exact problem, replaced with marine hose and also solved my problem.
 
Do you like your FASS system? Did you take your old transfer pump off, or leave it in line? I think I can do without for now, not pushing big numbers, just keeping up with the new ones. . I have heard all the hype on the FASS systems, I would have one if I was running a overvalved engine.



I love the FASS system it does work well and has performed flawlessly. My only gripe is the way the dissed us previous owners in the "lifetime warranty" deal. My system was less than a year old and didn't fall into their lifetime deal,go figure:confused::confused:,but it does have the 7 yr warranty deal on it so no biggie.



I did remove all of my factory fuel pump stuff,including the filter. I did this because I HATED turning into a contortionist to change the filter out,especially with the front end lifted up. The FASS simplified things and all I need to do is use a creeper and a pan to change the filters now. It has quieted down the 12v to some extent with the enstrained air removed. Less knock and smoother idle and the power can be felt driving down the road.



As for power needed to buy one or justify buying one,not really. Mine was done to simplify service time and since the factory stuff was all in need of replacement the cost was close enough to just outlay the little extra for the FASS. I had a bad fuel heater(melted and shorted),non serviceable pre filter and a leaking lift pump so the FASS went on. Hope that helps some..... Andy
 
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