head studs........

[berman2000]

i am going to purchase head studs in the next couple of weeks. upgrading turbo in the near future. was wondering, since, i assume, the head needs to come off and a new gasket goes on... ..... is there anything that i should do while the head is off? i just would like to overbuild rather than find out later, springs or whatever should have been done. also, any gasket better than another? any thoughts? looking to upgrade cam eventually, too!

Thanks TDR'rs!

 

[RHestand]

I'm not an expert on this, but I have talked to a lot of guys that R&R bolts/studs and did not remove the head, with no problems.

If or when I change mine, I'm going to try it.

Ray

 

[231jasonS]

I think most change the studs without changing the gasket. Unless they had a problem to begin with. The cummins gasket seems to be the best gasket out there.

 

[JDKammin]

If your head gasket is not blown, change them out one by one.

 

[THoltz]

I heard from a knowledgeable mechanic that studs needed to be torqued every year, so apparently torqueing isn't a one time thing. Just thought you might want to be aware.

 

[DE Jeeper]

If you install them correctly by torqueing them down 3 times with the right lube you will pre-stress the threads and you should not even have to retourque in the future.



Aaron

 

[berman2000]

de jeep....

new gaskets? whats your take on that? thanks

 

[ENafziger]

There's no need to pull the head, or replace the gasket if it's holding fine. There are plenty of threads if you use the search function, with pictures as well.

The general feeling is to take out one head bolt at a time, run a bottoming tap in, use plenty of the ARP moly lube, and torque the stud to 125 ft-lbs.

After you get all studs in place, go back and loosen one at a time, apply more lube, and retorque.

After you get all this done, go back and do it again a 3rd time. This will eliminate the studs stretching so much after the first couple heat cycles.

Even after this initial stretching, it's probably a good idea to retorque again after a few weeks and multiple heat cycles, and then every 6 - 12 months thereafter (when checking valve lash would be a good time).

--Eric

 

[paulb]

The 3rd gens use an MLS (multi-layer steel) gasket, and will hold a lot of power. The standard ARP 2000 studs with the stock gasket, and will hold over 700hp. If you plan on going higher then use the ARP New Age 625+ studs. I am at about 830hp right now and the head has never been off. You can install the studs without pulling the head. The gasket would only need to be replaced if it has already started to leak.



Paul

 

[berman2000]

thanks, guys..

only makes sense to do what is needed.

 

[MountainMan1]

I heard from a knowledgeable mechanic that studs needed to be torqued every year, so apparently torqueing isn't a one time thing. Just thought you might want to be aware.

Changed my bolts one by one three years ago and haven't touched them since... I make 60 psi of boost! Changed at 115,000 miles and have over 413,000 miles now!



It doesn't make sense to me to re-torque after seating a gasket. But do re-torque twice, total of 3, while making the initial install.



Peter

 

[SShafranko]

i would also like to do mine. Anyone know how much a shop would charge?

 

[CPavlic]

Not trying to hijack the thread but what brand studs do you guys recommend? I know a lot of you run the arp but I was wondering about the studs that Haisley makes. Their heavy duty 12mm studs are a lot lower then arp's and was wondering if anyone has experience with them and if they even compare.

 

[berman2000]

hey, cp....

did you mean price wise? where did you find them... ... thanks.

 

[CPavlic]

Yeah I was referring to the price. Just wondering if ARP might be a little overpriced or if this is one of those things where you get what you pay for.