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03 3500 4x4 Six Speed PROBLEMS!!! Need HELP ASAP!

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For those that don't know me, I am 100% Permanent and Totally Disabled from the Persian Gulf. I say this for one reason. It sucks to fix something, then find out it was something else that was causing the problem ((or adding to it)). It's double pain in the butt, when doing it from a wheelchair with a broken spine, crawling on the ground with a jack and stands. ((my choice, cause there is no other reasonable option at this moment in time. Future plans include concrete and a lift)).

SO: Here's my story, and I need some serious help. I cannot find a REPUTABLE dealer that is worth a damn, to do warranty work. ((quoted 11 grand to fix a fuel issue, it was the APP Sensor so it wouldn't run, and the list of blackmail goes on)). ***Anyone know a Ph Nr. of a Customer Complaint/Service Rep who is worth a damn? I have DOCUMENTATION from a dealer that PROVES blackmail!! ((QUOTE: We'll void your warranty if you don't pay the $11 grand UNQUOTE. It was the APP Sensor, under warranty, and they STILL charged me $400 bucks in LABOR to put it on!))



I replaced the clutch at 80K miles. Pulling a 46ft Horse trailer cross country, and a "new driver" added to excessive wear and heat. It was sold at NAPA and I went for the replacement Ceramic Clutch. Incredible difference in hook up. Torque, etc. From 100 miles post clutch work, when backing up with the trailer fully loaded, I started experiencing BOUNDING issues. Felt like the motor and trans were coming out of the chassis. or the rear differential was roatating causing drive shaft binding, or tail shaft was bouncing from a broken mount. The ONLY way to keep from pounding your head on the ceiling was to put it into four wheel drive, and ease out the clutch. ((which helped some, but no longer does)) Problem got worse, and NOW happens almost constantly. Excessive motor bounce when turning off engine. Climbing hill in third, fourth, fifth gear feels like front end is hesitating... . like a frozen u joint does, or like it feels when you are turning in 4x4 low and turn too far too soon... . Not as dramatic, but you can hear the drone in the exhaust like it's doing that. Clutch is NOT slipping. No RPM changes with the noise or feeling.

Bounce is REALLY bad when pulling UP HILL. From a stop up hill, it's almost impossible to get rolling again without incredible bounce. Feels like a bucking bronco. Motor bouncing, feels like a "frozen U joint" with the drive shaft out of round. In other words, imagine if the drive shaft was making a six inch circle instead of rotating on line with the rest of the drive train... . THAT is what it feels like. Broken Trans Tail Shaft Mount, or motor mounts, or something similar.

Now, on the way home half loaded, up a 1200 ft elevation over three miles, I had to go into SECOND GEAR to get up the hill. Normally, I can do it in fifth, and no sweat. After I got home, I checked the front differential, drained it, no metal, no problems with gear, oil was still viscous and slippery. I drove it without the trailer, it was pretty close to "no problem", but coming back up a hill, could still feel the same drone/bounce feeling. Just not as bad as when trailer was hitched up.

So, SOMETHING Is going on, and I don't have dealer nearby that is worth a damn that can tell me what is up. 88K miles right now, under warranty till 100K. I can't find a broken mount anywhere. Doesn't seem to have problems in the transfer case. No shifter/ gear rattle or movement (trans or transfer case) to indicate its clutch or transfer case problem.

I am at a loss. Running short on time to get it fixed, due another spinal surgery that won't wait..... ((docs took out the wrong vertebrae and disc trying to fuse it after an explosion over in the sand box)). Life won't wait while I am recovering either!!!

If anyone has :

1. AN idea or similar experience of this type, I sure would like to know what it was, and how it was fixed.

2. An idea or NAME/ADDRESS of someone, dealer, Cummins Expert in California that has a brain in their head, and something on their mind in the realm of HELPING TO FIX THE PROBLEM instead of selling me a new truck, or extorting money... . I sure would like to know.



I live 1 hour north of Fresno, 40 min East of Merced, and three hours SOUTH of Sacremento..... I'll take it to Texas, Oklahoma, Nevada... where ever the answer is.



I sure would appreciate some info on where I could take this so my wife is not stuck on the side of the road with three kids and a baby, plus horses... while I"m having surgery again. ((Screws broke for the FOURTH time))

I am NOT looking for sympathy here. I am just really SICK of #@$%! dealerships that are in it for the money, NOT service and keeping buyers on the road!!! I have been doing ALL the maintenance work and FIXING work even though it's still under warranty, because I have been BURNED too many times getting warranty work done, and ended up on the side of the road IN TRAFFIC with HORSES broken down, cause some part changing monkey left a bolt out, critical item undone, etc. I could go on, but I am sure a LOT of TDR members are mad as hell at Crysler and Dodge, which is WHY we have TDR to begin with!!!

Thanks in advance, and I really hope to hear from someone SOON!



Recent work: Fuel Filter Changed 100 miles ago. Fuel Tank dropped and cleaned (for no reason I found out). All fuel lines blown out with compressed air. Injector lines cleaned. ((Two thousand miles since))

Oil changes current and religious. APP sensor replaced after total malfunction. Banks Exhaust Brake and MOnster Exhaust installed 100 miles ago. Differential gear oil changes, (both) 150 miles ago. New shocks. New tires, rotated and balanced... all seven. Trans gear oil changed 2 thousand miles ago when clutch was changed. No overheating problems. May have a head gasket starting, as there is 'moisture' showing on the block below the head line. ((no loss of coolant, no bubbles, no overheating, no water in oil, no water out exhaust, no consumption of coolant)) Valve cover is not leaking. Injector (LUCAS) cleaner 100 miles ago.



Sincerely,

Steven M. Kuryla

CWO(R), USA

Intelligence Regiment

-- email address removed --
 
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First of all, thank you for your service to our country.



Second, welcome to TDR.



Third, as handicap as you are, what are you doing with a 6 speed standard shift? How do you even shift it? If I were you I'd sell the 03 and get a brand new truck with the new 6 speed automatic trans. There are many good dealerships in the Sacramento area. I know, I was stationed there when in the military.



Forth, you sound too bitter. Calm down, you'll live longer.
 
First, you're more than welcome. I'd still be doing it if I could pass the physical and get through metal detectors.

Second: Thank You for the welcome. It's GREAT to finally find civilians who are worth talking with, and know what is going on, vs the oxygen thieves that are taking up two thirds of the population.

THIRD: Six speed was in the truck when I bought it, INTENTIONALLY because of farm work, 43 horses and 50 Angus. I had the truck before I got blown up, and it's paid for. I can get a new one, but have WAY more money in this one, and it's "adapted" which the VA will only "assist" paying for ONE TIME! ((You are only disabled as you allow yourself to be. I listen to the motor, RPMs, watch gauges, and shift as needed. Just like a normal person, just a lot more pain involved and determination.

FOUR: I AM calm. 36years active, 22 in Covert Ops Intel has helped bring out the CALM in me. I just don't have patience for toads in the road. I've been told I am too intense, but that has nothing to do with not being calm. I'm calm. Just FOCUSED and determined NOT to let this continue in a fruitless effort.



As for the OTHER RESPONSES... .

Carson City WHERE? There are several in the US.

As for drive train TIMING... ... CLUE ME IN!? The cam shaft position sensor is ok, fuel injection timing is ok. Is there some other "timing" I need to know about? Nothing I have found in any manuals, maint scheds, and no one at CUMMINS has referred to it as a possible problem, so tell me where you are coming from.



THANKS to everyone involved. i appreciate the input. I am still looking.

Tomorrow the drive shaft comes out so i can find out if ANY of the U-joints are bad, and the center carrier too, to see if the rubber is bad, combined with a Ujoint, this could be the "rump rump" feeling bouncing down the road, especially when torque is applied pushing a trailer in reverse. THEN, I get to check the rear axle to determine if the pinion angle is changing when towing..... that would also do it.



I am open to any other suggestions. Please let me know.

steve



THIRD:
 
when you replaced your clutch if for some reason the slip joint in the rear drive line came apart and it didn't get put back in the same spot or 180 degs off your yokes would be out of time and could cause a similar problem. But what you describe sounds a little more severe but still worth checking
 
Just a FYI, but with my dual disk clutch it is very common for the driveline to "bounce" in reverse. Your clutch is probably not as tight as mine, but you may just be experiencing the the side effects of a strong clutch. Mine does it with trailer loads as little as 2500 lbs, expecially when I am trying to turn it.



As far as the truck feeing like it was loosing power try checking the rear calipers. I had one lock up on me and I could really feel it in the clutch. Take it for a 10 mile ride and see if the area around the wheel is smoking hot. My rotor felt like it could sun burn my face. Hopefully this helps.



Aaron
 
Can we assume the truck did not do it before the clutch was changed? What did the flywheel and pressure plate look like? Did both get replaced or only the disk? Was the flywheel surfaced? If so was the shop equipped to do it properly? If the flywheel is not running true to the crankshaft you have a problem. Also the phasing of the drive shaft is important. You can try removing and rotating 90 degrees at a time to see if that changes it, but most likely it is related to the new clutch and the finish of the flywheel and pressure plate.
 
Can we assume the truck did not do it before the clutch was changed? What did the flywheel and pressure plate look like? Did both get replaced or only the disk? Was the flywheel surfaced? If so was the shop equipped to do it properly? If the flywheel is not running true to the crankshaft you have a problem. Also the phasing of the drive shaft is important. You can try removing and rotating 90 degrees at a time to see if that changes it, but most likely it is related to the new clutch and the finish of the flywheel and pressure plate.

Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Ceramic Clutch, Throwout Bearing were all replaced as a MATCHED and BALANCED KIT! No, it did not do this prior to the clutch change, HOWEVER, there are now TWO THOUSAND MILES with the new clutch and it did NOT do this until recently. Nothing was machined. Nothing was "hacked". It was all new parts, balanced, as a kit. ((old clutch was down to the rivets, flywheel and pressure plate were blued from excessive heat (the new driver I was talking about) throw out bearing was worn, but fine otherwise after 70 some K miles. I replaced the flywheel specifically due to the heat and "rattle marks" from slippage. ))

The initial "bumping" that happened shortly after the clutch was changed, apparently was the clutch hooking up harder and tore the rubber transmission mount... ... or so the dealer tells me.

Now I find out they NEVER REPLACED IT, JUST DOCUMENTED IT!! GO FIGURE.

So, we may be on the road to the ANSWER!!! If the U joint is frozen, and the tail shaft mount is broken, then I think we can safely assume we found the problem.

I'll let you know. It goes in tomorrow for a "LIFT CHECK", which has a jack on it, so I can try to lift the motor, trans, rear axle, ((pinion angle check)) and see if anything else is broken, frozen up, or leaking etc.

Thanks for the input.

Steve
 
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Thanks for the input. I will check it. I recently had all four changed, because I didn't have an exhaust brake. Broke all four rotors from excessive heat, and the cracks chipped down the pads like a cheese grater. Didn't take long to overheat and melt the rubber seals, smoke pouring out from brake fluid hitting the rotor. I was coming down the hill from FLAGSTAFF AZ. and was afraid to stop because the fire got worse the slower I got. It finally blew out as long as I didn't touch the brakes and pump more fluid on it. NOW, after large money for new rotors, calipers and pads on all four corners, PlUS E brake stuff, I have a Banks Exhaust Brake. BIG DIFFERENCE DOWN HILL. I hardly have to use the service brakes with the trailer... . amazing difference, and a LOT more calm and confidence when cars cut in front of you..... Gotta jump in that space you leave "in case you have to stop fast", then you are ... well, you know the deal.

Later.

Thanks again. I appreciate everyone's input and assitance. It means a lot.

Steve
 
when you replaced your clutch if for some reason the slip joint in the rear drive line came apart and it didn't get put back in the same spot or 180 degs off your yokes would be out of time and could cause a similar problem. But what you describe sounds a little more severe but still worth checking
You DEFINITELY have an idea there. Combined with the fact the dealer never FIXED the transmission tail shaft mount, this could be a serious indicator of what can happen. I appreciate your help. It goes "on the rack" tomorrow at a local tire shop, so I can at least get under it in my chair and look..... we are going to use the lift jack to try and lift the trans, motor, and pinion to see if anything is broken, or obviously frozen or out of place, and/or leaking.

I am assuming this joint you are talking about is inside the rubber accordian looking seal in the shaft. I was trying to figure out how that comes apart, without wrecking the rubber, and/or if there is a replacement part for it. I know it's like a steering column, and has to allow the shaft to slide inside itself for motion of the rear axle over bumps, hills, etc. Otherwise, it would be sliding in and out of the tailshaft on the transmission. BUT, it appears to be a fixed item. Sealed by the factory with a steel "staple" of some sort. If I tear the rubber, then it's subject to road debri and dirt. So, if you happen to know, let me know about taking it apart, putting it back, and if there are repair parts. The dealer wants to sell me an entire new drive shaft... ... DUH!

I'm serious when I say I can't find a dealer that hasn't had prior experience with the N. J. Mafia loan sharks. It's not about service around here... it's about robbing customers.

Thanks again for your input and suggestions. I'll definitely be looking into that tomorrow morning.

Steve
 
Nevada. 1/2 hour South of Reno.



Thanks again for your service.



100 Proof
THANK YOU!!! I will put it on a trailer after tomorrow if we don't find a problem that is obvious.

As for my 'service'... . there are still a million guys over there (and gals) that are putting in 24/7. Wish I was too. But like everything in life, I did a full circle. I'd still be doing it if they'd let me. Where else can you travel, meet people, use the best equipment on the planet, and have positive feedback that you did something worth doing! It's different than working at a job. And I THANK YOU ALL for giving me the pleasure, authority, paycheck (tax dollars) to do what I loved to do. I am just now beginning to see what I "gave up" and having fun finding out. Seeing America for the first time in my life has also been a HUGE REWARD! I was dirt poor prior to service, so I never let my home town. Like so many other Americans. So, YOU'RE MORE THAN WELCOME!!!

Steve

Thanks for the help on my truck!!!!
 
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