Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Isspro Machincal fuel gauge install?

[Bunyan]

What can I use to plumb the gauge without using an isolater? Can I use one piece of hose with a shutoff valve from the injection pump to the gauge itself?

 

[Mishkaya]

What can I use to plumb the gauge without using an isolater? Can I use one piece of hose with a shutoff valve from the injection pump to the gauge itself?

What seems to work best is simply to use a needle valve you can get at your local hardware store. Just make sure it's 1/8" NPT and make sure to get the other fittings necessary to hook it up to your kit. There are plenty of write-ups about this. Good luck with your install.

mishkaya

 

[Bunyan]

I did a search , but can not find the thread I'm looking for. If I remember right, instead of using an isolater, a hose and needle valve were used. I need to know the type of hose and how it connected at the inj. pump and gauge. It's an Isspro Machanical Fuel Pressure Gauge. Anything, PLEASE!

 

[rkressg]

I just used a 3000psi hydraulic hose. The end that connects to the gauge has a 45deg angle fitting, the other end is just a straight end. I think it is around 6' long, but you might want to measure with a string.

I got the hose made at NAPA, along with the necessary adapters/fittings. The hardest thing to get was an 1/8" needle valve.

 

[Mishkaya]

I did a search , but can not find the thread I'm looking for. If I remember right, instead of using an isolater, a hose and needle valve were used. I need to know the type of hose and how it connected at the inj. pump and gauge. It's an Isspro Machanical Fuel Pressure Gauge. Anything, PLEASE!

Geno's sells a line that hooks up to the schrader valve at the VP44, it's 1/8 npt at the other end. You can hook up a needle valve from any hardware store directly to that. I would recommend using diesel rated hose (instead of the nylon tubing that most likely came with your kit) to go to the gauge.

mishkaya

 

[CKelley1]

A $7 OIL pressure gauge kit from any discount parts store has the fittings and 6 ' of line, the taped banjo bolt from genos

 

[Eric Lee]

I went with a Geno's Tapped banjo bolt off the bottom of my fuel filter canister - into a 90deg fitting - to a 18" grease gun hose - into the isolator attached to the front of the master cylinder. The isolator guage side is then filled with anti freeze from there into the cab.



Why are you trying to bypass the isolator? Is the guage going to stay in the engine compartment or are you plumbing diesel into the cab? Neither is too good really.



-Eric

 

[Bunyan]

yes I'm bypassing the isolater and the hose and diesel will enter the cab. The needle valve will shut off fuel supply if diesel would happen to leak in the cab. I've read that the isolaters can be troublesome, and to eliminate it altogether.

 

[RJWEST]

Genos banjo bolt, Flex hose(fuel rated ) to firewall, Than 1/8 copper to gage.


If you run copper from the pump to gage, you will here lots of noise in cab...

 

[Eric Lee]

I have not had to read anything about fuel pressure gauges since I took out the electric Westach crap and installed a real mechanical gauge so I'm not sure about the troublesome isolators. I know when I got a little picky about bleeding the antifreeze at the guage I got enough of it in and on the guage that it got inside and made the face come loose - it's pretty well sealed so I can't get in there and fix it.

I do know that when this gauge shows no pressure to shut her down - and I have blown FASS fuses so I know it can and will happen. With the electric I never knew for sure - I had to carry a duplicate gauge and hook it up to the Schrader valve at the VP44 to check it.

For what it's worth - I would use the isolator and if it PROVES troublesome - change it. I think you have better than a 50/50 that it will be just fine.

- Eric

 

[CKelley1]

every piece of equipment and truck i have owned in my 41 years in business that had a factory installed fuel pressure gauge, has diesel fuel to the gauge, i purchased a used isolator and gauge a while back and the gauge did not have a snubber built into it, rather than change the gauge out i added the isolator . do not use antifreeze in the isolator, when it fails it mixes the diesel with the antifreeze and with the water antifreeze heaver than diesel it goes to the pump, they add water to antifreeze to keep it from freezing during shipment use atf instead

 

[Tomscreek]

I called Geno's and told them to send everything I'd need to install a mech. fuel guage for my particular truck. I choose the Isspro guage and they sent everything else to hook it up including the isolater. Been in the truck for several years now and it works perfectly.

 

[Bunyan]

I just used a 3000psi hydraulic hose. The end that connects to the gauge has a 45deg angle fitting, the other end is just a straight end. I think it is around 6' long, but you might want to measure with a string.



I got the hose made at NAPA, along with the necessary adapters/fittings. The hardest thing to get was an 1/8" needle valve.

rkressg, is your needle valve completely open, half, or less?

 

[Mishkaya]

rkressg, is your needle valve completely open, half, or less?

The question was not directed at me, but I use a needle valve as well, and to avoid the nasty vibrations at the gauge I have the needle valve almost all the way closed. I close it and then open it maybe an 1/8 turn at most. This way it is still very responsive (takes about 1/2 sec to drop when I shut truck down), but I don't get any vibration or noise.

mishkaya

 

[Bunyan]

The question was not directed at me, but I use a needle valve as well, and to avoid the nasty vibrations at the gauge I have the needle valve almost all the way closed. I close it and then open it maybe an 1/8 turn at most. This way it is still very responsive (takes about 1/2 sec to drop when I shut truck down), but I don't get any vibration or noise.

mishkaya

Thank you, and all who have responded. Hopefully I'll have this gauge togther and working before long. Thanks Ron

 

[Bunyan]

I just used a 3000psi hydraulic hose. The end that connects to the gauge has a 45deg angle fitting, the other end is just a straight end. I think it is around 6' long, but you might want to measure with a string.



I got the hose made at NAPA, along with the necessary adapters/fittings. The hardest thing to get was an 1/8" needle valve.

rkressg, what route did you take and did you drill new holes in order to get the fuel hose into the A-Pillar?

 

[rkressg]

I mounted mine below and right of the steering column. I figured it would be a little too difficult to mount up high. If you want, I can go and take some PICs.

One of the difficulty was the depth of the fittings on a 3/8" hydraulic hose. I never pushed the gauge completely into the gauge bucket, but because it is mounted near the floor, it really does not matter (I can not see the sides).

 

[Geno's Garage]

We, at Geno's Garage, recommend using the isolator, as required by the gauge manufacturer, to keep diesel out of the gauge. After years of selling thousands of the mechanical gauges with isolators, we cannot vouch for the assumption that the isolators are "troublesome". The isolators are VERY, VERY, VERY simple devices, and when installed per manufacturer's/Geno's Garage instructions, should last for years. The only actual trouble we have seen is an isolator leaking diesel due to the housing screws loosening, and I can only recall one instance of this. Most isolator "troubles" are caused by improper installation, modification, or the customer disassembling the unit, and improperly reassembling. We have seen MANY more gauge failures, due to having diesel pumped directly into the gauge. All of the gauge manufacturers, that we use for mechanical fuel pressure gauges, require the use of the isolator. We, nor the manufacturers, will honor any warranty claims for gauges that have been installed without the isolator.



~Andy

 

[Bunyan]

I mounted mine below and right of the steering column. I figured it would be a little too difficult to mount up high. If you want, I can go and take some PICs.



One of the difficulty was the depth of the fittings on a 3/8" hydraulic hose. I never pushed the gauge completely into the gauge bucket, but because it is mounted near the floor, it really does not matter (I can not see the sides).

Thanks, no need for pics. I'm going into the a piller. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

dipricol

I used just a isolator and in 1 year I had 2 isolators rip on the diaphram problem caused by the pulses coming so hard. so on the third replacement I did put on a needle valve just prior to the isolator it been 5k miles and no problems so far. I learned also with the the danin isolator it has to allen bolts and two screws holding it together, the hex bolts hold tighter than the screw did I went and replaced the the screws with similar allen head bolts so far no seapage from the isolator main body. I did at one time have the gauge on the pillar. but now have it moved behind 4wheel lever on a bracket connected to the plastic molding. just my 2. 5 cents





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