Setting up air compressor

[Spooled-up]

I have a 60 Gallon Ingersoll-Rand air compressor that I have had in the garage for a couple of years now. I'm finally going to wire up the sub panel in the garage and get it hooked up.



My question is, what should I use for an air filter/regulator? I read that the air out of the compressor has water in vapor form and that the filter should be as far away as possible so the water can condense. I will be running the line up to a spool of air hose in the garage ceiling and was thinking of mounting the filter/regulator up there.



What do you guys recommend for a filter/regulator and what other accessories should I be looking at? A tool oiler maybe?



I'm not sure about what to use for the air line, but remember reading a ton of posts a while back about what to use such as black iron, copper, PVC, etc. I won't be using PVC, but is there a problem with using copper since it's easy to cut and set up?

 

[rbattelle]

is there a problem with using copper since it's easy to cut and set up?

I can't comment on the filter/water separator, but as far as using copper pipe it should work just fine. Based on what I've read elsewhere on this board and others, copper is a perfectly good choice.



I'd make sure to get the thicker-walled copper - type L - as opposed to type M. I think Lowe's and HD carry both types.



Here's a page with some useful info.



Ryan

 

[Spooled-up]

Another question...



What size air line do you recommend? 1/4" or 3/8ths?



I have a 15 cfm compressor.

 

[GHarman]

Another question...



What size air line do you recommend? 1/4" or 3/8ths?



I have a 15 cfm compressor.

Are you gonna run air tools? The size of the pipe/tube needs to match the pressure and volume necessary to operate your highest consumption tool. GregH

 

[seafish]

I ran a 3/4" copper mainline running on top of the bottom chord of the trusses down the length of the shop, then teed off with 1/2" to the walls wherever I wanted air.

 

[kenny61]

You can mount the water separtor anywhere between the hose and tank just put it somewhere you have easy access they fill up quick when it's humid out and you want to be able to drain it easily.



Is that A GSP in your avatar?

 

[rkressg]

When we setup Air in our Rail Vehicle Repair Shops, we have driers right near the compressor, but they are designed to work with High Heat. We have additional Stone driers at the actual air drops. Typically, Air lines from the compressors can range from 4" to 8" (mutiple 1000hp compressors with huge tanks, but way overkill for your garage).

How high of a pressure are you planning to run? If you are under 130psi or so, Type L copper should be fine, if you want to run higher (say 175 psi) I would suggest threaded black pipe or galvanized pipe.

Personally, when I did my garage, I have run 3/4" black pipe everywhere, and dropped down 1/2" drops to the actual air locations. I have a 3/4" inlet into the compressor. I do also have about 50' between the compressor and the first air drop (back and forth with the pipes on the ceiling) to allow the air to cool somewhat before hitting the dryer (allows some water to condense first). I do have water drains at every low spot in the system (3/8" valve). This is way overkill for a house, but I was bored when I put it in and had some Home Depot gift cards.

 

[jwgary]

A filter/separator is best installed where you have a drop in the line. Condensation will always find the lowest point in your system. On the ceiling next to your hose reel will not be a good place for that reason and, as mentioned above, because of dificulty reaching the drain. I would also recommend against having an in-line oiler because then you can't use a paint sprayer and even a blow gun will spray oil everywhere. You can buy small oilers to thread on the the back of individual tools to do the same thing and that keeps the oil out of the lines. Copper pipe does well as a heat exchanger to help with condensation as long as you separate it out.

 

[CKelley1]

go to northerntool.com look up item #490500 it has 2 quick connect fittings that is on a plate that screws to the wall a manifold 100 feet of line and easy to use fittings next is the drain part #1540332 next is the regulator #1594007, do not get an oiler get an old time oil can and keep by the tool box with the air tools , fill it with atf and every time you take out a tool give it a shot. get a #1594015 regulator filter for your paint sprayer , connect it to the 100 psi manifold. did not see where you are from but if you live where people should and not where the humidity soaks you this is all you need

 

[p-Bar]

I bought some neat insulated stand offs for the feet of the compressor at Mc Master-Carr. Also use a piece of hydralic line with the crimp fittings between the compressor and your copper /plastic or what ever

 

[Spooled-up]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I appreciate it.



Besides draining the tank is there any preventative maintenance I can do to keep the inside of the tank from rusting?

 

[CKelley1]

no on the rusting, be sure to use synthetic compressor oil and change the oil and filter every two years . even in water treatment plants where moisture is high and the compressor runs runs a lot to operate the control valves i have never seen a tank go bad . a vacuum gauge or one of those gauges like on our dodges is not a bad idea for the compressor , i was at a site where they had five screw compressors and was loosing one about every six months , i looked at the lube, alighnment and every thing i could think of . i decided to pull the filter off to listen to the intake , with both feet on the deck and both hands pulling about 100 lbs i could not pull the filter off i killed the compressor and lifted it off with two fingers. these compressors cost $5,000 ea and they lost seven of them , there filters had a strong wire cage on them and had collapsed the gage to a ball of wire . yours does not have the cage and might suck the filter in. i do not think you will ever use yours enough to worry about it but i though i would mention it

 

[Dieselnut59]

Keep the tank drained! The drier you keep your tank, the drier the air will be coming out of the line. Use a GOOD USA made ball valve on the bottom of the tank and drain it regularly.

I second the oiler comment. If you use an automatic oiler, the oil gets in the line and will continue to blow oil when you do not want it to, such as using a blow gun, sander or paint gun. I always just oil the tool before each use and have never had an air tool go bad in my 17 years of mechanicing.