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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) More power needed. Small mods info.? 1996, 12v, auto, 2wd. STOCK

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Hi guys, I need a little to moderate increase in power. I continually tow a 10,000 lb enclosed gooseneck and I have trouble going up moderate hills.

I am not looking to race or have a big-badass truck(yet:) ) I have a 94 Supra that makes 722rwhp/598rwtq, so I have my power bug "fixed. " I simply need more power to keep up with traffic, that's all. I understand these auto trans. will BREAK HARD if they have too much power.

Throttle plate?

Raise fuel pressure?(to what number?)

Wastegate mod?

CHEAP turbo housing swap?



I already gutted the cat, but otherwise, it's a stock exhaust. I also already have a nice digital EGT. My F. deg, have never passed 950 fully loaded.



Thanx and LMK your thoughts!!



_JT
 
The auto trans won't necessarily break; more likely the torque converter will slip and eventually burn out.

Taking you at your word that you aren't looking for a LOT of extra power/torque, you have a couple options. One doesn't cost too much; the other gets a little spendy.

One possibility is to install a 3K GSK. This will allow you full power to around 3K RPM, letting you go up those moderate grades in direct, albeit at 3K RPM (or a little higher). You might need to slide the fuel plate forward some to allow a little extra fuel in. With the pedal close to the floor, the TC shouldn't slip.

If you increase fueling significantly or if the TC slips anyway, you may have no choice but to install a valve body and stronger TC (with associated minor mods) so the trans and TC will handle the extra power. If your EGT then climbs too high, you may have to spring for a fuel plate with a 'nicer' curve.

And, regardless of which option you take, you should use a high quality synthetic 75/140 lube in the differential and a high quality synthetic lube in the trans. This will reduce heat, wear and friction.
 
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Good info thus far. I'm in Tucson,Az btw. Why does this matter?

My auto "shutters" and barks hard at times when climbing in 2nd gear. Sometimes in 3rd, even with the O/D off and it's annoying. Also the O/D light flickers at times, bumps or just daily driving, annoying too.
 
If you already have gauges (boost/egt) your ready to except for trans upgrades.

If you want a little more hp a little bigger injector will do it,say a 215 or rv275and /or you could add a mild fuel plate.

The 3 GSK is a good idea too.
 
Good info thus far. I'm in Tucson,Az btw. Why does this matter?



because all of this stuff has been covered a thousand times, and if you're incapable of doing a search, you might have a hard time doing some of these mods :p



J/K!



I love turning these trucks up and/or helping people out with their trucks. If you were anywhere near Houston, I'd be happy to get together and turn some wrenches over a few barley sodas :D
 
I did search and at the time, no results were on the first 6 pages.



Thanx guys and yes many beers would suffice. Newcastle to be exact.
 
I search for, "3 gsk" and I get this... . "One of the search terms you specified (3) is under the minimum word length of 3 characters long and therefore will not be found. Please make this term longer.

If this term contains a wildcard, please make this term more specific. "
 
I know I'm not comp. savvy, so can someone tell me why it's important a word needs to be at least "3" characters long in a search?

This has frustrated me several times.

Thanks, Ray
 
it's to prevent overloading the server if someone decides to search the letter "a"



but, yes, it's pretty annoying on a site like this where you have so many 2 or 3 letter letter acronyms :( GSK, DPF, AFC, EGT, sps, htt, BD, II, etc...



it all just depends on what you want out of the truck... if you touch the turbo, I'd probably just replace it with something better.



a 3k GSK will help. I always just do a 4,000rpm GSK.



get an adjustable boost elbow to be able to dial in the boost level you want. keep the stock turbo below 35psi



slide your factory fuel plate forward, or grind a new profile on it, or buy an aftermarket fuel plate.



I wouldn't worry about fuel pressure. The factory lift pump will support far more power than you're looking at making.
 
If you get the 4K kit, then you are changing the exhaust valve springs. I would say a mild fuel plate, 3K springs and maybe a set of bigger injectors.
 
I put 4k kits in all my trucks. if you want to rev over 3500rpm you should change ALL of the valvesprings.



if you install an exhaust brake, you can get away with just doing the exhaust springs
 
4K kits are a little less forgiving if things don't go perfectly installing them, more touchy and temperamental . . . IMO unless someone is going for a healthy dose of HP a 3K kit is plenty. Mine pulls hard to 3500+ with the 3K.
 
it'll pull harder to 3500 with a 4k :)



I've never had a problem installing them... measure protrusion, remove old junk, install new junk to the same protrusion = perfect every time :cool:
 
it'll pull harder to 3500 with a 4k :)



I've never had a problem installing them... measure protrusion, remove old junk, install new junk to the same protrusion = perfect every time :cool:



Perhaps you forgot that Mr. Granberry wanted a moderate boost in power to handle towing 10K lbs up moderate hills? I do not believe he needs a 4K GSK and everything associated with it to accomplish that.
I simply need more power to keep up with traffic, that's all.
He doesn't need to pull hard to 3500 RPM. He needs to pull decently to 3000 RPM, which will allow him to reasonably keep up with traffic in direct gear.
 
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