Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked exhaust manifold

[MullinsM]

99 2500HD 4x4 Auto 200,000 miles

The old Dodge must be starting to show her age. While chasing wires and grounds for my transmission problem I found several cracks in my exhaust manifold. Do not know if they are thru wall or not. Is this uncommon for the manifold to crack? Looks like I will have to go back to the exhaust pipe to change out the manifold. Is there any hidden dangers (things that can be ruined/broken) to be aware of? Is there anything I should do to the turbo or anything else while I have it apart as it is stock? Where is a good place to get a new/used one? Is there any difference in exhaust manifolds that I should change it for another type other than stock?



Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

 

[MAllen1]

It is not uncommon for the stock manifold to crack, especially if you tow alot. The best way to fix the problem is to buy a three piece manifold. ATS, BD Diesel, and Industrial Injection have good manifolds. I went with Industrial about 5 years ago because, at the time, it was cheaper, and I haven't had a problem with it. If you are thinking the turbo, or any part of it like the wastegate actuator, now would be a good time. As for a used manifold, the crack in mine isn't through the manifold yet, but, I would spend the extra money on the front end and do the job once.

 

[KBrennan]

It is not uncommon for the stock manifold to crack, especially if you tow alot. The best way to fix the problem is to buy a three piece manifold. ATS, BD Diesel, and Industrial Injection have good manifolds. I went with Industrial about 5 years ago because, at the time, it was cheaper, and I haven't had a problem with it. If you are thinking the turbo, or any part of it like the wastegate actuator, now would be a good time. As for a used manifold, the crack in mine isn't through the manifold yet, but, I would spend the extra money on the front end and do the job once.

Are the after markets drilled and tapped for a pyrometer?

 

[darkhorse]

Are the after markets drilled and tapped for a pyrometer?

Yes... ... .

 

[brianv31]

Mike,

If the cracks are all the way through on the manifold, you'll have noticeable soot leaks. Then's when it's a more urgent situation to look for a replacement. If you go with an aftermarket 3 piece, get one that's preassembled too. They aren't difficult to put together, but enough of them come preassembled you might as well let somebody else spend the time.

 

[Diesel Dummie]

HTT is the best for the money!!!

 

[MKreiberg]

My ATS (purchased used) has a crack in the turbo mounting flange next to the divider on the top (normal install). It isn't leaking.



Just FYI - if you're thinking used, look closely.



For the price, if I had to do it over I'd go new.

 

[slomodiesel]

Dear MullinsM- My exhaust manifold had a small crack that was noticeable from the top. When I finally bought a new BD manifold I took the old one off of course and it had a major crack out of view directly under the turbo. I took a sawzall (Man's best tool!) and cut it in half along the crack and I had major leakage all the way through. My new manifold is a three piece well made and I ported it and cleaned up the ports on the turbo housing (Matched ports to the gasket with a dremel tool) and my egt's went down while towing almost 200 degrees and it spools super quick now. Another win/win! If you buy one one tip not mentioned too often is that the manifold may not line up on all ports when you get it so you must heat it up and pry the slider section (outside) ports to match. I used wood and mallet and propane torch to heat center section so it would slide.

 

[MullinsM]

Thanks for the help everyone. Slomo -- little things like what you brought up are what makes this board really great.

My cracks are thru wall. Held hand over it and could feel exhaust gas. ATS 3 piece just arrived and will be installing tomorrow. Thanks again to everyone.