Air Tank Location...

[mconstable]

Hopefully going to install my PacBrake in the next few weeks, and I'm thinking about going with a 3 or 5 gal. air tank instead of the supplied one.

Where would be the best location?

TIA!

 

[zippinbye]

I mounted my air tank (for bags, not brake) outside of the frame under the bed, just behind the forward wall of the pickup box. Mine's on the right, with compressor on the left. I think it's only a one gallon tank, but there's lots of room left over.

 

[mconstable]

Thanks zip!

 

[Motorhead]

Hopefully going to install my PacBrake in the next few weeks, and I'm thinking about going with a 3 or 5 gal. air tank instead of the supplied one.
Where would be the best location?
TIA!

I sent you a PM

 

[jelag]

Guys... don't get carried away with the tank... . that compressor is not designed to run a large tank... ... if you go to charge a large tank like that..... let the compressor run for a while and than turn it off..... if you can't touch the head of the compressor with your fingers your getting it too hot... .

It is not designed to run for 20 or 30 min which is what it will take to charge a 2 or 3 gallon tank to full pressure... .

 

[mconstable]

Thanks for the heads up Jim... I figured that, was gonna pre-fill with my pancake compressor, just looking for a bit more capacity for towing down mountain grades.



... did you get my pm on the down-pipe?

Thanks!

 

[ctingler]

i mounted mine up under the frame on the passenger side of my truck and put a quick connect on the wall by my afe stage2 filter

 

[100 Proof]

Thanks for the heads up Jim... I figured that, was gonna pre-fill with my pancake compressor, just looking for a bit more capacity for towing down mountain grades...

You won't need the extra capacity if all you are going to run is the brake.



100 Proof

 

[JCasper]

Guys... don't get carried away with the tank... . that compressor is not designed to run a large tank... ... if you go to charge a large tank like that..... let the compressor run for a while and than turn it off..... if you can't touch the head of the compressor with your fingers your getting it too hot... .



It is not designed to run for 20 or 30 min which is what it will take to charge a 2 or 3 gallon tank to full pressure... .

Mine gets too hot to touch just filling the little tank

 

[Motorhead]

Mine gets too hot to touch just filling the little tank

The pumps that came with the Pacbrake have a 33% duty cycle. They will get hot to the touch. Remember though that MOST of the time that they are running you have air flow across them from the engine running.

 

[Pacbrake]

With the stock compressor that comes with the pacbrake do not use a tank over 2. 5 gal, anything more (larger) then that is going to short live the compressor.

 

[RBridenbaugh]

Thanks for the heads up Jim... I figured that, was gonna pre-fill with my pancake compressor, just looking for a bit more capacity for towing down mountain grades.

If you go this route, you may want to plumb in a check valve, between the PacBrake pump and the tee going to the solenoid and the tank, as the tank will leak down overnight, back through the PacBrake compressor. Will save you from having to use your pancake compressor every morning.



Haven't needed more than the 1. 5 gallon tank going down any of the long grades in WA, OR, ID, CA and NV. Only time I overheated the pump was climbing UP Priest grade in CA with temps in the 90's, didn't shut off the exhaust brake, and it cycled every corner going up. Exceeded its thermal cutoff point. Took more than an hour to cool back down and reset itself.



-- Bob

 

[Pacbrake]

If you go this route, you may want to plumb in a check valve, between the PacBrake pump and the tee going to the solenoid and the tank, as the tank will leak down overnight, back through the PacBrake compressor. Will save you from having to use your pancake compressor every morning.



Haven't needed more than the 1. 5 gallon tank going down any of the long grades in WA, OR, ID, CA and NV. Only time I overheated the pump was climbing UP Priest grade in CA with temps in the 90's, didn't shut off the exhaust brake, and it cycled every corner going up. Exceeded its thermal cutoff point. Took more than an hour to cool back down and reset itself.



-- Bob

The check valve is the right idea.

 

[Motorhead]

The check valve is the right idea.

Harold, Is there a check valve that you supply or one I can buy somewhere? My tank leaks down and I know I have no leaks. CHris

 

[JCasper]

Sorry To Hijack, but Harold could you send me a diagram of the proper way to add a tank and some air horns to my existing system. I have the PRXB brake and will upgrade to a little larger tank. I would be interested in one of these check valves also.



Thanks,



Joe

-- email address removed --

 

[Pacbrake]

The check valve part number is C20506 you can get that through us or any one of our dealers.



Joe as for adding air horns all you need to do is on the bottom of your tank you have a plug if you remove the plug and run a supply line to the air horn solenoid the horns will work fine as our pressure switch for the brake will see a drop in pressure and automaticly start recharging the tank.

 

[JCasper]

The check valve part number is C20506 you can get that through us or any one of our dealers.



Joe as for adding air horns all you need to do is on the bottom of your tank you have a plug if you remove the plug and run a supply line to the air horn solenoid the horns will work fine as our pressure switch for the brake will see a drop in pressure and automaticly start recharging the tank.

Awesome, thanks