Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Lets talk BELT TENSIONER (PICS)

[robbiesworld]

I have read through some posts about the tensioner and still dont have a definite conclusion. I belive my tensioner is slowly wearing out and moving the pulley back towards the motor and throwing the alingment of the belt off.



A few months ago the belt was squeeking and we took the tensioner off and stuck a washer behind it to keep the actual housing of the tensioner from rubbing on the side of the belt. The whole time scratching my head.



I threw a couple ribs off my belt tonight and am assuming it was the front two ribs that were mot coming in contact with the tensioner pulley.



From what I gather the tensioner pivot point wears out and lets it move closer to the rear of the vehicle and throws the alingnment off.



Here are a few pictures so you can see what I'm talking about.



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[cojhl2]

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A few months ago the belt was squeeking and we took the tensioner off and stuck a washer behind it to keep the actual housing of the tensioner from rubbing on the side of the belt. The whole time scratching my head.

No doubt about it, time for a new tensioner. They aren't very expensive.

 

[EDavis]

id just get a new one they are about $70 at any parts store.

 

[robbiesworld]

What luck its Thanksgiving. Today I give thanks that my new gatorback belt is getting shredded every time I drive my truck and I cant get a tensioner anywhere lol. Im gonna go see if there is a parts store open.



Is there a better quality tensioner available as opposed to the parts store crap?

 

[Bill Lins]

There was somebody selling a metal unit (instead of the OEM plastic) on here a while back- does anyone remember who it was?

 

[EDavis]

Not to rob the thread but anyone know were you can get the pulley for a non ac'd truck as its a ribbed pulley vs the stock flat one for an ac truck. I took my ac off and had to machine spacers to make a universal ribbed pulley work. No parts stores or even cummins had a listing, they were even surprised the engine came without ac. However I know someone with a non ac'd truck.

 

[robbiesworld]

There was somebody selling a metal unit (instead of the OEM plastic) on here a while back- does anyone remember who it was?

My particular problem wasn't a metal vs plastic problem because the tensioner is metal. You must be talkng about the actual pulley?

 

[robbiesworld]

Not to rob the thread but anyone know were you can get the pulley for a non ac'd truck as its a ribbed pulley vs the stock flat one for an ac truck. I took my ac off and had to machine spacers to make a universal ribbed pulley work. No parts stores or even cummins had a listing, they were even surprised the engine came without ac. However I know someone with a non ac'd truck.

I think I may have an answer. I would run the smooth tensioner pulley even though it will ride on the grooves of the belt. I know it sounds too simple to be true but the tension on that belt is not enough to hurt or distort the grooves I don't think. It would be nice if someone on here had a non A/C truck to give you a good answer.

 

[robbiesworld]

Not to rob the thread but anyone know were you can get the pulley for a non ac'd truck as its a ribbed pulley vs the stock flat one for an ac truck. I took my ac off and had to machine spacers to make a universal ribbed pulley work. No parts stores or even cummins had a listing, they were even surprised the engine came without ac. However I know someone with a non ac'd truck.

Read these threads, it looks like there is a grooved tensioner pulley. I still think you will be ok running a smooth pulley.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...8/165575-belt-tesioner-pulley-c-vs-non-c.html



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...993/147543-serp-belt-tensioner-sp-non-ac.html

 

[EDavis]

I know for a fact that they came with a groved pulley but all the parts stores can get is the smooth. A couple poeple I know have had good luck running on the smooth pulley but i think my soluton was better. Just seems weird that you cant get the grooved pulley anywhere

 

[JJanetka]

I replaced mine when I replaced my belt with an oem from dodge but I think it was a superseded part # as it was not exactly the same. New(3/8 drive hole) vs old(1/2 drive) but still a Dayton part. The new one wore out in less than 6000 miles letting my belt jump over just like yours so I put the old one back on.

 

[PToombs]

I have a non-A/C truck, and mine was smooth.

The problem is there is a plastic disc that is the wear pad inside the tensioner. Once that goes, junk!

I got mine from the Case dealer where I work. I went in and got one for a CX 240 excavator. It was a little more money than from the autoparts, but I think it's better quality too.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

There was somebody selling a metal unit (instead of the OEM plastic) on here a while back- does anyone remember who it was?

You're probably talking about Practical Solutions, Gordon over in Montana. Unfortunately he called it quits a couple years ago

When I bought a new idler tensioner for my '98 the other day the parts counter guy said it was the exact same PN he installed on his own Buick a couple days before I also paid about $70 from Auto Zone.

 

[robbiesworld]

I went to Autozone and got a Dayco for 75 bucks made in USA that looked very nice. The casting was beautiful. I put it side by side to my old one it lined up exactly the same but when I installed it the belt tracked right where it was suppose to. I guess the old worn one changes its angle with the tension of the belt on it. It has a year warranty and changes out in about 10 minutes.



Napa had a Gates brand tensioner for 149. 00, I figured the Dayco should be just as good. I wonder what an OEM tensioner costs? are they Dayco anyways?

 

[JJanetka]

The oem tensioner Dodge counter gave me was a Dayco(whoops not Dayton) but so was the one on the truck. I don't remember what the cost was but I think it was in the $80-$90 range. I just looked on Rockauto and the Dayco was $85.