Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2nd gen steering upgrades on a budget

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Code P1694

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Vacume Pump Oil Leak Questions

Status
Not open for further replies.
Steering is terrible along with everyone else's. Here is my plan:



3rd gen Track bar/track bar conversion.



Dss or Bd steering stabilizer.



Thats just the beginning. However in another month or two i want to continue the upgrades. But for money issues i need to spread out the cost. My next question is what is next?



Sway bar links? Steering Dampner? rocksolidramsteering? tie rods all around? Steering shaft?



eventually i'm hoping to have all the above replaced/upgraded, just trying to figure out the most important, and correct order of upgrades. any opinons appreciated. Thanks!
 
I would say that if your track bar does not "need" to be replaced ASAP, then go with the DSS stabilzer. Then the track bar. Thats the order I did them, for the same reason (budget) and the DSS will make a difference. Once you get the track back in it is very noticible, atleast it was to me.



The DSS took me about 45minutes to install but the track bar took most of the day (old one was very stubborn coming out#@$%!#@$%!#@$%!)



I havent done anything else (did everything about year. 5 a go) and everything is still good to go.



Next will be a new dampener, as I just noticed that mine is real bad looking, could be some cheap insurance/upgrade.



Hope this helps



J-
 
I would suggest as before stated to try the DSS first, I was amazed at the difference in just that but i still wanted more and thats when i went to the track bar.
 
I ended up putting in the DSS and Lukes Link on track bar (and then later the PSC steering box) but first I replaced the control arm bushings with Energy suspension poly bushings along with new Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and Energy Suspension end link bushings (and new Moog end links... . I'd consider the MAXX links if I did it again). The lukes Link kept loosing up so I replaced it with the Solid Steel 3rd gen adj track bar and kit... . and I love it.



One of the first thing I replaced was all shocks since they needed replacing.



The last thing was the front rotors since it really started wobbling bad at that point... they were warped... . used NAPA drilled/slotted rotors. Been wobble free for over a year.



I had right front tire wear during the middle of all this and was wearing out new tires on the outside edge in 3 months. Had a good alignment shop replace an offset cylinder in the knuckle and adjust for zero toe and about 3. 5 degree caster. Front tires are wearing even for 2 years after that. The rotors came after the tire wear was fixed.



Good Luck with your wobble. It sure is nice to have a straight driving truck. I loved the 3 turn PSC box but they don't sell them anymore. My truck drives with one finger and straight.



Fixing it was worth all the money I spent. I love my truck now.



Dave
 
Last edited:
I ended up putting in the DSS and Lukes Link on track bar (and then later the PSC steering box) but first I replaced the control arm bushings with Energy suspension poly bushings along with new Energy Suspension sway bar bushings and Energy Suspension end link bushings (and new Moog end links... . I'd consider the MAXX links if I did it again). The lukes Link kept loosing up so I replaced it with the Solid Steel 3rd gen adj track bar and kit... . and I love it.



One of the first thing I replaced was all shocks since they needed replacing.



The last thing was the front rotors since it really started wobbling bad at that point... they were warped... . used NAPA drilled/slotted rotors. Been wobble free for over a year.



I had right front tire wear during the middle of all this and was wearing out new tires on the outside edge in 3 months. Had a good alignment shop replace an offset cylinder in the knuckle and adjust for zero toe and about 3. 5 degree caster. Front tires are wearing even for 2 years after that. The rotors came after the tire wear was fixed.



Good Luck with your wobble. It sure is nice to have a straight driving truck. I loved the 3 turn PSC box but they don't sell them anymore. My truck drives with one finger and straight.



Fixing it was worth all the money I spent. I love my truck now.



Dave
I am fairly new to the 2nd gen steering problems. When I did experience the wobble, I corrected it with the lucas link. Now after being pulled over not once but twice for wandereing and asked to take a breathalyzer which I passed, it is time for help. What do I need to replace next? I wanders and pulls to the left when braking although it is slight. Just spent 2400 on brakes, rotors, hub bearings, brake lines and axle joints. I love the truck and motor, however the gestapo is annoying to me.



What's next?
 
Need help

I have a 1996 3500 DRW with 243k. I had a slight wobble initiated by speed bumps that was corrected by lucas link. That worked for about 6 months. Since then, twice I was pulled over by the locals and ask to take a breathalyzer. Really embarrassing and an eye opener at the same time. I just spent $2400 on bearings, brakes, brake lines, rotors and axle u-joints. It does have a slight pull upon braking. The steering box was tested and it was fine. Where do I go from here and if you would not use acronyms please.
 
Oh boy! I'll try to give you a start on this..... hang on because it is not a simple one solution fix but vary's with each truck... . Ok here we go!



This is by no means an exhaustive treatment of this subject and I may be missing something and others will disagree with my selection of parts. There are many good track bars out there and I chose the Solid Steel 3rd gen track bar. Thuren among others makes a good track bar and you will get many opinions on track bar, steering boxes, rotors and shocks to name just a few.



The fix is different for each truck but generally the track bar is the first thing to check... that and look for any loose front tie rod or link and replace it. After that it is a witch hunt. This subject has been covered time and time again. Do a search on "death wobble" and you'll find lots of reading as I have.



It took me 2 years+ to fix mine. First, get under the truck while someone has the engine running and saws the steering wheel back and forth and look at both track bar ends for any movement... there should be ZERO movemet. I replaced the Lukes Link because it needed to be retighened as it was always loosing up on me.



Any loose front end part needs replaced like tie rods and links. Then come shocks, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links... etc.



After looking for and replacing parts that have slop then set the caster for around 3. 5 degrees on each wheel and zero toe (that was a factor in wander for some). Here is a thread on alignment specs I did:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...mission-discussions/144154-steering-woes.html



I fixed my 4 1/4 turn stock steering gear that was leaking at the output shaft with a PSC 3 turn light valving box. It can be steered with one finger now. PSC quite selling that Dodge steering gear but you can find others that do (powersteeringservices.com but search for the latest on this). Search for 3 turn (verses the stock 4 turn) steering box. To determine what yours is go full turn with the steering wheel to one side to the stop then reverse the turning counting how many full 360 degree revolutions the steering wheel makes till it hits the other stop. Stock is usually 41/4 turns. It is felt but some that going to 31/4 turn reduces the wobble effect. I like the 3 turn with light valving 16:1 that gives one finger steering.



Next look at the steering gear. While the wheel is turned back and forth look for a delay in input shaft verses output shaft (at pitman arm) or loose steering shaft. Some have fixed slop in the steering shaft column with the rocksolid steering fix.



As to what to do first... . you will get a different answer from each person... you research and decide.



Good luck,

Dave
 
Last edited:
Or you can do what I did and let a cab driver illegally run into you. I took out the side of his cab with my Michellin. Brand new steering box, pitman arm and all the trimmings. When it was all over I received $1600. 00 of brand new steering components and a fresh alignment, it steers like it did back in '01, all compliments of his insurance
 
Not an option

Unforturnately, this is not an option for me as I possess a Commercial Drivers License and we are targets of the yellow paper pushers.
 
99 t swap

If you have very many loose tie rod ends consider doing the swap to the T-style steering. That was the first thing I did on mine and it helps some. Major thing it helped with was bump steer on rough roads.

Next for me was the 3rd Gen Trac bar and the DSS at the same time. That made a world of difference.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top