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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Shutoff Selonoid!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fusible link

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ANOTHER Smarty question..

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Has anyone ever heard of the Fuel shutoff Selonoid not lifting instead of not shutting off..... I find this to be wierd and I have looked at Larry B's but nothing helps... I found the relay on the fire wall for the Selonoid and tried to bypass it but just smoked my Fuseable links. Does any one know that if I replace the relay and the Fuseable links if my Selonoid will still work a little bit of help would be apprieceated!
 
Edgeman,



The solenoid is spring loaded to shut the fuel off. It has 2 coils in it that are operated by relays. One pulls the shut-off linkage up, and one holds it up. If it is not pulling up when you try to start, but will stay up with the igition on and you manually pull it up, I'd say it's the relay. Sounds like you found them. I would not suggest trying to bypass them.



If it will pull up but will not stay up, sounds like the other relay.



Do a search and I'm sure you will find plenty of reading, even part #'s for the relays from NAPA and Radio Shack.



Scott
 
My 97 would intermittantly not start. If up manually pulled up the fuel solenoid it would start and hold. I finally puller the solenoid and clear the plunger and bore with brake cleaner and sprayed silicone spray and it lasted for a year.



A few months ago it would not start and replacing the relay cured it. Follw the schematic on Larry B's to figure it out here:



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http://www.fostertruck.com/images/relay location.JP
G



Dave
 
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One day mine quit working on my 95 and I had just been bouncing around on dirt roads on my property.



I found a ground wire that fell off the negative side of the driver side battery terminal.



I have heard of those relays getting sticky.
 
First of all there in only ONE relay involved with the fuel solenoid. It's for the pull up coil. The big one on the firewall. The hold coil is low current and connected directly to the ignition on circuit. As far as I know Radio Shack does not carry the proper relay. They have a 30 amp automotive relay. The pull up coil draws 40 amps. The 30 amp relay will work for a while but eventually it will fail because the 40 amps is too much for it. Allied sells a 70 amp relay (the stock relay is 70 amps) for less than $10, but you have to pay shipping. It's at NTE Electronics, Inc. - R51-1D70-12 - Allied Electronics
 
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I knew I should have waited for Joe G. to post... ... ... . :eek:



Don't call Radio Shack for a relay. Do what Joe says.



Sorry for the mis-info... ... ...



Scott
 
Dave, how much shipping did you have to pay?
I'll have to see if I still got the receipt. I ordered it about 1 year ago (I think) and didn't use it till a few months ago. I seem to remember it was about $10 shipping plus around $10 for the relay. I'll check when I get home from work and let you know.



I found my receipt from Allied for the relay ordered Sept 2007:

Date: 10/24/2007

Relay: $9. 53

Tax: $0. 75

Ship: $9. 88

Total: 20. 16



Note: I checked Allied online today and the relay cost $8. 90 plus $5. 00 handling plus shipping (to California estimated fedx GND = $5. 35 or UPS Gnd = $9. 94) plus California tax about 8. 25%. They charge tax in 33 states. It may be cheaper getting it from Geno's or Foster Trunk depending on the shipping & handling & tax.





Dave
 
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I was wondering about the comparison of total cost between the three vendors. When I bought my relays from Allied I also bought a bunch of electronic components so my shipping was for quite a bit of stuff. They are really good about getting stuff out the door promptly.
 
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