Here I am

High Power CR

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2004.5...which programmer?

2003 Crank But No Start

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hello TDR,



I am in the process of compiling a list of components for my soon to be Fummins. Wondering if I could ask for some constructive criticism of the list so far. My build is going to be for DD, towing the boat(7k), and skidsteer ocassionally. I am looking for reliability first then performance. Any help would be appreciated. The list:



2005 CR

48RE: Goerend

II Dual CP3's: Both Stock

DDP 90hp injectors

II Towing Compounds

Manifold: BD or ATS

ARP Studs

FASS 150/150 or AirDog

Smarty



Billet flex plate: Necessary?

Cam: F1 Helix 2: Necessary?

Springs: F1: Necessary?

Rods: ???: Necessary?

Larger Valve Seats: Necessary?

O-Rings: Necessary?



Any suggestions I've missed?



I'm in the market of doing it right the first time and surely there are things I've over looked. There is not necessarily a set hp/tq number set in my head but 600/1200 would be awsome. T-I-A for any help you can give.
 
You wont need O-rings but with twins I would suggest getting headstuds... Also instead of a billet flex plate I would suggest a laminated one since they are supposed to flex and billet does not do a real good job of flexing. A cam and springs would be nice but not really needed the springs are good insurance tho. The cam will help lower your egts and spool your turbos quicker as well... II twins are good but I would also suggest you look into MPI as well to see what they have to offer you... .
 
I know a guy that if I recall correctly did like 620 on electronics only stock cp3, II PS66.



You will most definitely need a billet or laminated flex plate. If you go billet make sure you get one with reliefs cut into it.
 
Any good "brands" or supplier you have in mind for the laminated flexplate?



Edit: Looked at Suncoast and it seems they only advertise a billet version. Good looking though.
 
Last edited:
shouldnt need dual cp-3s with only 90 ddp inj nozzles, cheaper to run a modded cp-3, some are over 700 h. p. with a single cp-3, also towing with an engine like that will destroy everything around the engine, unless you baby it
 
Pretty much my set up, but I have not got the cp-3 yet. I am going to get a Stage 3 from Floor-it when I get the cash. I have a 165k on the clock with about 30k with the high hp set up. It's a nice daily driver and tows real well. You get plenty of power to tow 15k and keep the egt under 1350. Don't forget your gauges when you do the upgrade. Also, you will smoke pretty good so if your local dmv checks you may not pass.



Aaron
 
Towing at a 500 hp level will destroy your drive train. When I tow all the electronics get turned down (which is still ~425hp) and my transmission hates it. I've seen transmission temps climb by 2 degrees per quarter miles on a hard grade.
 
Towing at a 500 hp level will destroy your drive train. When I tow all the electronics get turned down (which is still ~425hp) and my transmission hates it. I've seen transmission temps climb by 2 degrees per quarter miles on a hard grade.





No electronics on my truck is still over 500, and I've never had an issue towing, even with an auto.



Dave Goerend has a laminated flexplate. That's what I'm using in my truck.



Talk to Lmills about the rest of the build, (see my sig). We have a mutual friend that has done this conversion already, and can probably give some good advice.
 
Mind elaborating a bit on this?



with an engine like that, there will be a little turbo lag, even with boxes off

the engine will probably be around 400 plus a few h. p. at the rear wheels, but when you hit that rpm where the power comes on, your rear wheel torque is going to multiply quicky and produce a shock load effect kinda like when the power valves open on a two stroke, i have seen a common rail make as little as 390 h. p. but still managed to make a very impressive 1056 rear wheel ft lbs of torque on a mustang dyno in meridian, that kind of torque pulling a heavy load will need a double disk clutch or a built trans, either way its going to eat u-joints, tires, etc well i should of asked what kind of weight you will tow, gear ratio etc:cool:
 
In the summer I will be towing a 7K boat up and down the MO hill's on the highway. I also pull a skid steer on ocasion.



While I like to hold speed on the highway common sense has always held my go foot light while towing. Empty is a bit of a different story.
 
Not sure if it is the smarty setting or a late injection cycle because of lower hp fuel, but a smoke through third gear. I really haven't played with the samrty programd, but the tst can not clear it up. Hopefully I will have a new cp-3 in the spring and then I can play with it some more.



I honestly think the 100hp injectors give too much fuel at the low rpm. The thing is I stay well under 1200 on the egt's even if I hit red line in the first 5 gears, so I am not too worried about it. The turbos spool up quick and keep the egt's down so I am happy even with the extr smoke.



Don't worry about the power when towing, just use your head when you drive. You have to remember you have a lot more weight your pulling around and stay off the go peddle. Remember your power is metered by how much fuel you jam into the engine so if you take it easy you limit the hp and torque. Think about it, the dyno numbers are at a split second when you put the engine through a violent acceleration. If you drive "softly" you don't make a ton of power.



Aaron



Aaron
 
Thanks all for the suggestions so far. Really hoping to get a final list and start blowing up the plastic. Still a few things in consideration and hopefully the unknown will present it'self.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top