Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) killer dowl pin for early 2002

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV5600 & Synchro's

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Stutter

Status
Not open for further replies.
I would say 3-4 hours, depends on how fast you are. Go to Cummins and ask for Part# 3958017 it is the tab to hold in the kdp, costs a couple bucks. This is a good thread on the issue.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...07-how-many-have-seen-kdp-24-valve-truck.html



My 98. 5 was hanging out 3/8 of an inch, i punched it back in, and used the tab.

Dirk



post #33 from above should answer most questions as to who/when to be concerned about a KDP. ;)

PS- ALL 5. 9s are susceptible to the case bolts falling out, so remove them one at a time clean, locktite red, re-install, re-torque. Done. :D
 
Last edited:
I read here that when they changed from 12v to 24v and the pumps, they also changed the covers.

(Implying) that only a few early 24v got assembled with leftover 12v covers and it would be a very small percentage. Unlike all the 12v's.

I never look at mine (built in early 2000, maybe a late 1999 motor?) but if it didn't come out by now, almost 1/4m miles. .
 
I read here that when they changed from 12v to 24v and the pumps, they also changed the covers.

(Implying) that only a few early 24v got assembled with leftover 12v covers and it would be a very small percentage. Unlike all the 12v's.

I never look at mine (built in early 2000, maybe a late 1999 motor?) but if it didn't come out by now, almost 1/4m miles. .



You could have the updated case. Or you could be the 300K mile guy that just lost his. Hard to say.



There is no rhyme or reason to it. The only way to know is to check. If you feel confident, then it's not an issue for you.



Dave
 
Well this thread sure touched a lot of different folks and it has been an education for a lot of us . I found a kit to fix the problem on BD Power - The Leaders in Diesel Performance and they have a download that shows and explains how to do the job so I believe I will go their route to fix my 02.

Wont know if its needed until I get inside the case. but better to fix and know its no longer a problem.



Dave
 
checking for the KDP is like a prostate exam, its a PITA that may not be needed but if you dont check it, it can kill you.
 
Boy, did that hit home. Now I have a lot longer life to look forward to because of the PSA exams. No more fear here of the dreaded prostate "C" word.
God is good.
 
What have you all paid for your KDP kit? I looked at one (can't remember which vendor) and it was $60+:eek: Where could I get one for less? Or, can I make one myself? I have the motor torn apart still so it doesn't even have to be easy.
 
Nevermind... ... found some pics. Should be a piece o cake. I'll use a plasma cam to cut the retainer and just use the same bolt when I put 'er all back together.
 
We buy our tabs from Cummins as it's just easier. We get them the same time we buy front seals. Yes, $1 is expensive for a tiny piece of sheet metal, but it made more sense than trying to make our own.



In fact, with the new punching machine, we'll probably start making them at the shop as well.



Dave
 
We buy our tabs from Cummins as it's just easier. We get them the same time we buy front seals. Yes, $1 is expensive for a tiny piece of sheet metal, but it made more sense than trying to make our own.



In fact, with the new punching machine, we'll probably start making them at the shop as well.



Dave



$1 from Cummins?
 
We buy our tabs from Cummins as it's just easier. We get them the same time we buy front seals. Yes, $1 is expensive for a tiny piece of sheet metal, but it made more sense than trying to make our own.



In fact, with the new punching machine, we'll probably start making them at the shop as well.



Dave



I was curious about this issue so I visited a friend last week who works the parts counter at Cummins Southern Plaines in Fort Worth - been there twenty years. After I gave him my truck engine's serial number, he told me that my truck's engine was built in August of 2001. Also, he said that the parts book did not show a timing cover gasket for that particular engine but rather indicated that a silicone seal was required. That being the case, he said that my truck should have the new timing cover and the dowel pin problem shouldn't be an issue. Hopefully he is correct in his assumption.
 
I helped a neighbor with a 2001. 5, do a vp and lift pump on his truck. We went ahead and pulled the cover and he had the old style case and did the tab... ... Also while in there, we pulled all the cover bolts cleaned them with brake cleaner put on lock tight and torqued them correctly.
His kdp was still seated, but the truck only had 80k on it.
Dirk
 
I was curious about this issue so I visited a friend last week who works the parts counter at Cummins Southern Plaines in Fort Worth - been there twenty years. After I gave him my truck engine's serial number, he told me that my truck's engine was built in August of 2001. Also, he said that the parts book did not show a timing cover gasket for that particular engine but rather indicated that a silicone seal was required. That being the case, he said that my truck should have the new timing cover and the dowel pin problem shouldn't be an issue. Hopefully he is correct in his assumption.

Nope. mine had no gasket and had the pin halfway out. We're beating a dead horse here. Cummins didn't and doesnt know what trucks had what cases. pins have fallen out of late '02s, so if you want to roll the dice and figure youre safe go ahead. I KNOW mine is safe not only from the KDP but also from loose cover bolts. :)
 
Last edited:
I am just finishing installing the KDP kit in my 2001. 5. My truck was a candidate for the failure. The front cover had no shoulder in it to prevent the dowel pin from coming out. My dowel pin was recessed about 1/4 inch and showed no signs of coming out at 113000 miles. Of course it could have loosened and come out at any time. The kit is relatively easy to install.
 
What is the easy way to get the fan off? How do I keep the whole thing from turning? I tried presure on the belt but that wouldn't hold the pully from turning. I figure I need an 1 3/8 open to do the trick. My cresent is too fat and will only grab the end of the nut. Is it a ccw or cw thread? My Ferd was ccw. Thanks in advance.
 
remove the whole mount from the block. 10mm (IIRC) and you'll need to grind the box end a little flatter to fit behind the pulley.
 
OK I just went down and tried one bolt and it will work,but will be mean to line back up. But it will save going to get a wrench in all this snow . I didn't see where I need to get behind the pully. Thanks DCreed
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top