Bypass filter element test run

[moparguy]

I'd have to find my analysis to compare numbers, but my long term test (21k miles)with the Frantz was good for continued use as well. I wouldn't be surprised with the 1/16 oriface to see someone go 40k + miles on Delo with makeup oil at the Frantz filter changes and the original Fleetguard in place in a 2nd gen, moderately fueled truck. Of course it'd be best if you ran longer trips on the highway to accumulate those miles.



Sadly I don't drive my truck enought these days to test that theory, but if things change and I start driving long distance frequently I might give it a shot using 10k analysis.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I'd have to find my analysis to compare numbers, but my long term test (21k miles)with the Frantz was good for continued use as well. I wouldn't be surprised with the 1/16 oriface to see someone go 40k + miles on Delo with makeup oil at the Frantz filter changes and the original Fleetguard in place in a 2nd gen, moderately fueled truck. Of course it'd be best if you ran longer trips on the highway to accumulate those miles.



Sadly I don't drive my truck enough these days to test that theory, but if things change and I start driving long distance frequently I might give it a shot using 10k analysis.

YUP - I too don't put miles on fast enough for the sorts of tests I used to do - and was fortunate enough to acomplish all the testing in various mods I used to bring my own truck to the level I wanted before we moved to where we now are in eastern Oregon.



My intent in the original longer than usual oil lifespan test seen further above, was to sorta explode the myth that only synthetics are suitable for extended oil drain intervals - I have absolutely nothing against synthetics such as Amsoil, and recognize their superiority in several points of use - but for the vast majority of users, anything the synthetics will do, the dino-based lubes will too, including the extended drain bit.



I finally drained the oil in my above mentioned test, not because it was rated unsuitable for additional use by Blackstone, but because I couldn't with a clear conscience continue use of oil that was so black with accumulated soot - regardless of the relative particle size of that soot. And yeah, there finally gets to be enough of that microscopic soot, that even the Frantz TP cartridges won't catch them - and at that point, unlike those Amsoil guys, I just GOTTA get that ugly stuff outta my engine! :-laf:-laf



(No offense intended, Wayne! :-laf)

 

[Allnew2Me]

Gary, I have been following your posts on this subject and must say that I'm impressed with the results. I missed the last group buy you had put together for the Frantz filters, is there any plan to do another?

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Gary, I have been following your posts on this subject and must say that I'm impressed with the results. I missed the last group buy you had put together for the Frantz filters, is there any plan to do another?

Keep in mind that I am probably more meticulous and conscientious than some others where maintenance and selection of filtering media is concerned - I've posted in other threads the various mods I've made to my own basic Frantz unit, as well as the materials I use and the little "tricks" I use to try for the best possible filtration - those are not by any means tricky, difficult, or expensive - but DO show improved filtering quality over and above the plain out-of-the-box Frantz installation and maintenance - the results speak for themselves - but many guys simply prefer to not go to the extra bother...



As to any current "specials" offered to TDR members, just use the Internet to contact Deborah Harley at:



Frantz Filters Manufactured by We Filter It! Inc - Oil, Diesel and Gas Filters.



Or By Phone:

208-467-FRANTZ

208-467-3726



Be sure to mention the TDR, and perhaps my name - Gary Davidson in Canyon City Oregon - and no, I am NOT a distributor, or connected in any way with Frantz - just another satisfied customer!

 

[steved]

When I set up the orifice in my GCF (which is 5/64" from factory, IIRC), I decided to go after one quart per minute.



To accomplish this, I bought several wire-size drill bits and the chuck to hold them (a standard drill will not hold wire-sized bits). I believe I ended up using a #57?? I believe my homemade orifice is around 0. 0502"... where a 1/16" is around 0. 0625".



You can make a orifice pretty easily... I believe I used a 1/4" male NPT to barb fitting, and I tapped the inside of the NPT side for 1/8" NPT. I then inserted an 1/8" NPT plug into the 1/4" NPT fitting (the one I tapped) and drilled the plug to the desired size orifice. I then screwed this assembly into the inlet of the GCF...



With that orifice, I'm getting less than 1 quart per minute hot idle... which should increase once rolling. My oil will stay clear for 5k miles, then start to darken... which is not bad considering the truck.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

When I set up the orifice in my GCF (which is 5/64" from factory, IIRC), I decided to go after one quart per minute.



To accomplish this, I bought several wire-size drill bits and the chuck to hold them (a standard drill will not hold wire-sized bits). I believe I ended up using a #57?? I believe my homemade orifice is around 0. 0502"... where a 1/16" is around 0. 0625".



You can make a orifice pretty easily... I believe I used a 1/4" male NPT to barb fitting, and I tapped the inside of the NPT side for 1/8" NPT. I then inserted an 1/8" NPT plug into the 1/4" NPT fitting (the one I tapped) and drilled the plug to the desired size orifice. I then screwed this assembly into the inlet of the GCF...



With that orifice, I'm getting less than 1 quart per minute hot idle... which should increase once rolling. My oil will stay clear for 5k miles, then start to darken... which is not bad considering the truck.

YUP - sounds like you have yours pretty well figured out.



The "trick", seems to be gauging the orifice to most efficiently trade off between best flow, depending on percentage of time the engine is run in stop/go, short haul driving, vs freeway cruising travel. If the orifice is too small in around-town driving, the oil volume never really gets sufficiently diverted thru the bypass element, and soot and crud can be built up faster than it is removed - but if the orifice is too large to allow for short haul driving, the flow in freeway travel is too fast for the element to trap contaminants - sorta like an air filter that has more flow than it can properly handle, so it allows dirt to pass thru instead of being trapped as it should.



I suspect I could reduce my orifice a bit more still for better all-around efficiency, before defeating my purpose - might try it somewhere down the road a bit...

 

[steved]

Since most of my driving is highway, the smaller orifice made more sense... that was the reason I went that small.

I would think 1/16" would be about the best overall size, and not a hard-to-find wire drill size either.