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Shift Issue

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Transmission Shift Issue

While driving back from the store today my truck was shifting fine. I got about 4 miles from the house and stopped at a stop light then proceeded, the trans will not shift, i have to run it up to 30+ mph and shift into neutral then back into drive before it will shift, then once in gear it shifts from second to third and into OD with no problem. No codes. :confused:Any ideas or help would be great. Thanks
 
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If the transmission will go into all gears and move the truck, then the bands are fine. If a band fails then the truck will not move in one or more gears.



You checked the fluid level... right?



I'm wondering if possibly the gear selector linkage slipped out of adjustment?



If not, then I'd try testing and/or replacing the transmission output shaft speed sensor (it's inexpensive and takes 2 minutes to replace), and if that didn't help, I'd replace the governor pressure sensor and servo (which requires dropping the pan).



BTW, not that I think it's directly related to your current problem, but have you regularly replaced the transmission fluid and adjusted the bands?



Good luck,



John L.
 
John L,

This is a fairly new trans, about 5k on it. The fluid level is up and is nice red color. I tried a speed sensor from my older unit and still same problem, and the sensor I removed had zero trace of gunk, (the truck will only start in Park and Neutral only so i assume it hasn't slipped position on the selector) My next step is dropping the valve body.

Scott
 
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John L,



This is a fairly new trans, about 5k on it.
Scott,



New as in rebuilt or brand new?



Is it under warranty?



I guess it's possible something is clogging the governor servo or a check valve in the valve body.



That's frustrating!



John L.
 
Scott,



New as in rebuilt or brand new?



Is it under warranty?



I guess it's possible something is clogging the governor servo or a check valve in the valve body.



That's frustrating!



John L.
John,



It is new but I installed a TransGo kit, I am going to do a fluid change and while doing that i have the stock valve body(working when removed) and swap the governor pressure sensor and servo. Wish me luck



Scott
 
Scott,



New as in rebuilt or brand new?



Is it under warranty?



I guess it's possible something is clogging the governor servo or a check valve in the valve body.



That's frustrating!



John L.
John,



I found a new problem (or it might be my problem), I pulled my truck around the house and put it into park and turn off the truck and the truck started to coast, it seems i do not have park. Any ideas
 
John,



I found a new problem (or it might be my problem), I pulled my truck around the house and put it into park and turn off the truck and the truck started to coast, it seems i do not have park. Any ideas
Boy, that sure sounds like a misadjusted shifter linkage!



From the Dodge service manual (see attached figure):



SHIFT MECHANISM



DESCRIPTION



The gear shift mechanism provides six shift posi-

tions which are:



• PARK (P)

• REVERSE (R)

• NEUTRAL (N)

• DRIVE (D)

• Manual SECOND (2)

• Manual LOW (1)​



OPERATION



Manual LOW (1) range provides first gear only.

Overrun braking is also provided in this range. Man-

ual SECOND (2) range provides first and second gear

only.



DRIVE range provides first, second third and over-

drive fourth gear ranges. The shift into overdrive

fourth gear range occurs only after the transmission

has completed the shift into D third gear range. No

further movement of the shift mechanism is required

to complete the 3-4 shift.



The fourth gear upshift occurs automatically when

the overdrive selector switch is in the ON position.

No upshift to fourth gear will occur if any of the fol-

lowing are true:



• The transmission fluid temperature is below 10°

C (50° F) or above 121° C (250° F).

• The shift to third is not yet complete.

• Vehicle speed is too low for the 3-4 shift to occur.

• Battery temperature is below -5° C (23° F).​



ADJUSTMENT



Check linkage adjustment by starting engine in

PARK and NEUTRAL. Adjustment is acceptable if

the engine starts in only these two positions. Adjust-

ment is incorrect if the engine starts in one position

but not both positions



If the engine starts in any other position, or if the

engine will not start in any position, the park/neutral

switch is probably faulty.



LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT



Check condition of the shift linkage (Fig. 222). Do

not attempt adjustment if any component is loose,

worn, or bent. Replace any suspect components.



Replace the grommet securing the shift rod or

torque rod in place if either rod was removed from

the grommet. Remove the old grommet as necessary

and use suitable pliers to install the new grommet.



(1) Shift transmission into PARK.

(2) Raise and support vehicle.

(3) Loosen lock bolt in front shift rod adjusting

swivel (Fig. 222).

(4) Ensure that the shift rod slides freely in the

swivel. Lube rod and swivel as necessary.

(5) Move transmission shift lever fully rearward to

the Park detent.

(6) Center adjusting swivel on shift rod.

(7) Tighten swivel lock bolt to 10 N·m (90 in. lbs. ).

(8) Lower vehicle and verify proper adjustment.​
 
Thanks a bunch John, i plan to drop the pan Saturday and check/clean the TB and make sure 1-2 isn't sticking. I was throwing P0700 code yesterday(I pulled all the connectors loose and reseated causing the code) I pulled the connectors and used some dielectric and code is gone.
 
Need advice

I removed the valve body and the band strut dropped out. The band is not broken but the grove the strut sets in has bent. I was was wondering if anyone makes a replacement band that does not require the removal of the trans. (Years ago furd had such a item) or can I re-install?
 
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I think there is an upgraded strut that can be put in without removal of the band.



Hard to understand, is it the strut that fell in the pan that is damaged? Or is it the band that is up in the trans that is damaged?
 
There isn't (as I recall) enough room for the band end to clear the case on top if you were to try and snake a new one in there. I guess it can't hurt to try getting the old one out just in case there is room. Worse case is you drop the trans anyway.

Have a MIG welder? Can you spot a strut brace to keep it from bending more as a temporary fix?
 
There isn't enough room to remove the band, I was curious if there might be a after-market mod(temp fix) until i can get the time and $$$ to drop and fix. I did drill and insert 3 steel rivets at the lip. I guess no more rabbit starts until shes fixed.
 
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