2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Axle, question for the machinest.

[moparguy]

Pulled the hubs on my 95 3500 4x4 over the weekend to replace rotors and ball joints for the first time in 250,000 miles. Due to 14 years of rust/gunk and despite 2 days of soaking with Liquid Wrench, the first 1/4 inch of threads gaulded on each stub axle.



I'm thinking either turn the 1. 125 threaded portion of the shaft down to 1 inch and rethread, or have a . 25" spacer made so the castle nut tightens down on good threads. Of course the carter key hole will need to be redrilled if the second option is used.



Just wondering, does one solution offer an advantage over the other.



And before anyone suggests buying new stub axles, I haven't found any in stock. Haven't checked with the dealer and hope it's not necessary.



Thanks,



RR

 

[n7gxz]

If you're thinking of turning them down and rethreading, I would look at welding them up and rethreading before turning them down smaller.



Kevin

 

[moparguy]

Kevin, that's exactly what I suggested when discussing options, the guy at the machine shop said they've turned down and re-threaded axles many times with no problems. When you think about it, the load is on the splined portion of the axle, the threaded portion only supplies clamping force. To the unschooled like me, 1" sounds like it'd be fine.



But,,,I ain't schooled in the art.



RR

 

[B.G. Smith]

The axle material is a hardened steel and welding on it could/will either make it brittle or softer. I would go with the turning and threading. bg

 

[n7gxz]

The axle material is a hardened steel and welding on it could/will either make it brittle or softer. I would go with the turning and threading. bg

There is one problem with that thought, by turning it down you'll cut through the hardening and now you're back down to base metal. Harding usually only goes a short distance into the material. By taking a . 125" cut you'll take off the hardening. I don't see that the threads would be hardened; I can see the splines being hardened.



A good welding shop can put the hardening back into the metal after it is welded up.



Kevin

 

[B.G. Smith]

There is one problem with that thought, by turning it down you'll cut through the hardening and now you're back down to base metal. Harding usually only goes a short distance into the material. By taking a . 125" cut you'll take off the hardening. I don't see that the threads would be hardened; I can see the splines being hardened.



A good welding shop can put the hardening back into the metal after it is welded up.



Kevin

What you say is true if the axle is only case hardened. I would think the entire piece is hardened and of course it has to be of the right material before all this takes place to accept the hardening in the first place. bg

 

[Batphreak]

I'm fairly certain the axles would be a through hardened piece. Machining and re-cutting the threads would be the best option, it'll just be tough on the cutting tools. Yes, a piece can be annealed and re-hardened after welding, however to do this you have to know the original hardness spec and type of material, plus you run the risk of warping any features (such as the holes for u-joint cups) that were machined after hardening originally.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Have you considered buying used? Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market. This is a huge nationwide data base of yards. I don't know who you have checked with for new parts either so here are a couple that might be able to help.



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