Engaging the fan clutch???

[Silverbullet]

We did use the Dodge compressor. The manifold pipe goes compressor to condensor or condensor to fan assembly?

 

[Silverbullet]

Ohhhh. Just looked at your post again. It would be compressor to condensor. Stand by.

 

[Silverbullet]

I believe it was made, not Dodge. Here is where the transducer is located right now. Laying just below it on the frame rail is the Cummins plug. That little red thing. Here is a shot from the bottom near the compressor.



This brings a question. I will need to retain the Ford transducer so the A/C knows to kill the compressor if pressures get to high, correct?



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[Matt400]

This brings a question. I will need to retain the Ford transducer so the A/C knows to kill the compressor if pressures get to high, correct?

Yes, you need to leave that one in there.

On the 05 Ram the transducer is located about 4" away from the compressor in the manifold assembly. Specifically the pipe that goes compressor to condenser.

 

[Silverbullet]

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to give the fix a try.

 

[ScottWA]

hey im looking for a follow up Im having the same issue. Is it working properly after the transducer install?

 

[Silverbullet]

Got the transducer fitting installed but cant tell if the fan clutch is engaging or not. It is hot outside today, +85deg, so the truck is hot anyways. After driving with zero refriderant in the system for a couple weeks the air is ice cold to me so it's hard to tell if it's better.



Impressions: Sitting at idle A/C on it's nice and cold. Compressor is not kicking on and off like it seemed to do prior. It just stays engaged. Town driving the air seems to remain cold but the air will get slight luke warms bursts, but not very often. This increases at highway speeds. The air seems to be cool/luke warm continuous with short cold blasts. And at those speeds it is difficult to determine if/when the compressor is engaged.



Since we pulled all the refridgerant out of the system I decided to refill it myself. I used some of the Arctic Cold stuff from O-O-O-O'Reillys. And lost a bit on the first can assuming it was empty. So maby the system is a bit undercharged.



I will be putting some proper gauges on it soon to determine the current pressures to see if there is any difference from the very high pressures that were there. But the little can gauge showed a constant 42psi on the low press. side when I got in the refridgerant that I had. 12oz+14oz+19oz cans = 35oz. I lost maby 5-6oz and my setup calls for 2lbs10oz = 42oz. So I'm going to get some more and try to top it off.



More to come when I get numbers. Pic of the transducer installed. vvvvv



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[Matt400]

After driving with zero refriderant in the system for a couple weeks the air is ice cold to me so it's hard to tell if it's better.

With the system open like that you wouldn't want to just fill it as it will have moisture in the system.

Ideally when a system has been opened for any length of time its a good idea to replace the dryer and for sure you would want to put the system in a deep vacuum for 30 min to boil off moisture.



System capacity is important too as over charging will cause less than cool air. I guess you would need to look at your Fords capacity 2lbs10oz and the Dodges which is 1. 85 lbs. and make an educated guess based on any different components on the swap like the condenser.



Sounds like you got it working though, good job!

 

[DMcGalliard]

Turning the fan on

I had the same problem with my 05. I still think the best solution is fooling the ECM that the temp is high as described in an earlier post. I have had it on my truck for a couple years and it works great. It is like any solution there are side effects, 1) the dash temp shows the temp of the resistor you have switched in to fool the ECM, 2) The switch has to switch from on to off and no center position, in other words no open circuit(engine check light) 3) should only be used when needed to bring the temp down as it turn the fan full on and it will bring the temp down. 4) the wiring is tricky as you need to connect at the ECM and use really good connections if not (engine check light)

If need the wiring diagram is on the early post. I have attached the diagram.

Dave Mc