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Oil filter change interval

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Posted this in 2nd gen with no replies. Just seeking generic information. Done some searches and reading - can't find much. What is the recommended filter change internal for the full flow and bypass filters for extended drain usage? I have a Franz bypass filter. Is adding a quart of oil when the filters are changed enough to "renew" the additive package, or should I be using something like "Power Services - Diesel lube oil extender"? Thanks!
 
It seems to me that you should be asking someone from Frantz about your filter changer interval and someone from you oil manufacturer about the addative package.



Also, it sounds to me like oil analysis would be the ideal tool for determining you intervals.
 
If your filter doesn't remove acids and other contaminants, my guess is Cummins will
you to change oil and filter at recommended intervals.
 
Search Frantz and bypass, there is a nearly 500 post long thread on bypasses.

I seem to remember that the Frantz is good for around 2500 miles? And changing the Frantz, and adding oil does keep the oil renewed to a point. A UOA will determine if the oil is suitable for continued use...

I would change the full flow filter at no more than 15k, change the Frantz every 2500, and do UOAs to find your own OCI/FCI interval.
 
the correct way to change the frantz or any other bypass filter is to change it when it stops flowing oil after driving just put your hand on it and see if it is hot. if it is it is ok. not time to change. as far as the main oil filter and oil change goes the way the fleet operators like us use companies like cat, blackstone, chevron or others to help us determine interval on each individual truck. to help understand this as how it relates to our dodges. each generations of the cummins has its individual requirements and as each change in diesel like to ls or to uls changes the drain interval. the change to the p pump to the vp44 to the cr. changes the drain interval. a huge change occured because of the 6. 7's requirements of the dpf. all oil had to be reformulated to meet the new requirements they had to remove most of the best antiwear additive ever used and the additive to reduce acid had to be severely lowered. so when the change from ci-4 to cj-4 happened the test had to be rerun on all trucks. even trucks running the same pump have different change intervals. example the 04. 4 has a drain interval about 50% longer than a 04. 5 model because of the soot loading of the in cylinder egr used on the 04. 5 up. the dirtier a filter gets the better it filters. for the bypass it works best just before it clogs up. you can not do this on the main filter it also has a bypass built into it and if it clogs up you are not filtering any oil. pick a good filter i use the fleetguard lf16035 because it will fit every generation truck and it filters the best. run it for one oil change. buy a fram oil filter and cut them both open cut the ends off the pleats so that you can roll the paper out to compare. the $10 you spent on that fram you never used will be well worth it. junk to a real filter what i am getting after here is even if the lab say the tbn, soot loading and other parameters are ok for another 4,000 miles will not tell you anything about the filter loading. now you have the change interval of the frantz and the analysis helps determine the oil change interval the only remanning item is the full flow filter. to me the cost of the filter is not wort the risk of running a motor and i probably discard them about 25% through there life i do cut every filter open to inspect because once i determine oil change interval i do not retest unless their is a reformulation of oil. i change the full flow on my dodges about every 12,000 miles
 
the correct way to change the frantz or any other bypass filter is to change it when it stops flowing oil after driving just put your hand on it and see if it is hot. if it is it is ok. not time to change.



i change the full flow on my dodges about every 12,000 miles





If the filter isn't flowing, then its not working... why would you want to leave the filter get to that point that it is inoperable???



I said 15k because that is the recommended FCI for the 5. 9CRD. If they are confident the full flow filter will last that long without bypass filtration, then it should be fine to 15k with bypass filtration.



Just some thoughts...
 
ok let's try to keep it simple for those that are not familiar with some of the bypass filters the frantz and the centrifuge bypass filters are the only two that can reduce the soot loading to any measurable degree. he has the frantz. the frantz uses an inexpensive filter but clogs very fast and if used on a 04. 5 up it will not last long at all that is why we do not use them i do not want to change a filter every two or three weeks. if a bypass filter clogs up it is the same as not running one and we have trucks with out one that have over 1,000,000 miles on them so driving one for 1,000 miles cloged up is not going to hurt. the amsoil, 2500, and lf1750 are very expensive and as i said they filter best the dirtier they get. i think i pay about $60 for the lf1750 and on a 03 will get about 500,000 miles before change on a 04. 5 it will probably go 250,000 the amsoil get's the least but i think it will get about 100,000 and i think the cost is about $35 say you run it 99,000 miles and clogs up and you do not check it until 100,000 nothing is hurt and at 98,000 miles the filter is a 100% better filter than a brand new one. and you have not needlessly wasted money. on the newer trucks we run the return line to the oil filler cap we do not check the bypass until we are changing oil and just watch the oil come out of the cap. the lf1750 holds so much oil we drain it at oil change and reinstall.
 
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