06 G56 clutch slipping

[PFlory]

Has anyone had problems with premature (in my opinion) clutch failure with the G56 transmission? My previous '01 had nearly 200K miles on the original clutch and never slipped prior to my selling it. I've only got 48K miles on my current truck, and first noticed slipping when towing my 15K fifth wheel, but now it's slipping when accelerating hard at the 1800 rpm range, and banks tuner set to the power level 6. Although my '01 didn't have as much power increase with the banks big hoss tuner as I'm getting with the '06, it's disappointing to have to replace a clutch this early. That said does anyone have a recommendation on an aftermarket replacement. I've had a big rig mechanic suggest a multidisc clutch, but as I only tow 25-30% of the time, I want something with relatively smooth engagement and moderate clutch pressure. If it's believed by the banks literature I've got about 200 addl' ft/lbs at the rear wheels on top of the 325/610 factory power ratings at the flywheel.

 

[jelag]

Gary with Perfection Hy Test did a great write up in a TDR issue on this truck and clutch... you might find that your slipping is the dual mass flywheel not the clutch...

His unit is a one piece flywheel that's assembled and bolts to the flex plate... in the units we seen available we think its the best... we've sold it and the customer is more than happy...

The key is reading and understanding the installation, as its unique... Gary is a member here... also understanding the testing/bleeding of the hydraulic system as well. .

Perfection Clutch - Brute Power - ZOOM - Super Brute

Hope this helps...

 

[BHaden]

I have the exact truck as you except I have duals and 2WD. I just put on a Six Gun and love it's performance, but I too can slip the clutch at will on positions 4-6, even empty. Truck is about 8000 pounds with no load in the bed. I've babied the clutch and it has about 58k on it. The Six Gun and other tuners just generate too much torque for a stock clutch. For now I run Pos #2 (VERY smooth for around town) and don't over power it. I can't afford a new clutch at the moment.

 

[HBarlow]

I haven't experienced one, after reading and learning a little about them I chose a 48RE when I bought an '06, but what I have heard and read is the dual mass flywheel setup will fail, the only question is when. They reduce noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) an automotive engineer's goal, but are simply not as reliable as the old tried and true solid one piece flywheel.

SouthBend Clutch is another source.

 

[PFlory]

I may have to do the same as BHaden, and keep the setting on power level 2 (economy mode) as it doesn't slip on that level. It just takes the fun out of the tuner for a lead foot driver like me. But the cost of a new clutch isn't in the budget right now.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The clutch, along with the pilot bearing and release (throw-out) bearing, belongs to the category “wear item. ” Your new truck has a lot more torque than your 2001 did. The dual mass flywheel/clutch setup is not very durable when you add power and/or tow a heavy trailer; you are doing both. South Bend Clutch has several good clutch/flywheel setups for your application. You also need to realize that the torque peak is close to 1800 rpm and that is where a clutch slips or could be considered the “fuse” in the system that protects other parts from breaking. In general, you are much better off downshifting and using rpm to make some of the horsepower instead of relying on torque so much. Parts will last longer and your fuel mileage under load will improve. Your engine's egt will also decrease 100 to 200 degrees if you downshift. An automatic transmission would downshift, and so should you with your manual transmission. A worn out pilot bearing will destroy the transmission input shaft, so I consider 100,000 miles of “normal” usage (a good bit of in-town driving with a lot of shifting, some highway usage) to be a good point to go into the bellhousing at least to replace the release and pilot bearings.

 

[AABEN]

Well boys this go to show you that jacking up the power a lot will show up in the end. Dodge knows what the clutch will hold! Dodge build it to work at the stock horse power and a little over so if you over do it then you must pay to play.

 

[CKelley1]

the 06 has the dual mass flywheel of very poor design. the only thing you can do is to replace it. south bend makes a kit that they sell by the hundreds we have had to replace three before 50,000 miles the sb kit has a solid flywheel with a real pilot bearing, a disc that does not slip, pressure plate and new hydraulics

 

[RHestand]

My experience with the stock factory 06 clutch was, after over powering it twice with my Smarty on #9 (at about 60MPH), it went away very quickly.

I bought and installed an SBC, CON-OFE?, flywheel, clutch and hydraulics, with excel. results.

Warning! Be prepared for, IMO, a moderate increase in drive-train noise. Most noticeable at idle, in N. with the clutch pedal out, and under load, at lower RPMs.

Ray

PS. RE: Pay to Play. I already new when I bought my truck new, in 06 that I would soon be up-grading the compromised/factory engineered, weak link, clutch assembly.

When I set my Smarty on #9, and floored it, I was doing a test. The test was to see if what I had read about stock clutches was also true with my truck. And yes it was.

Personally, I get a lot of satisfaction out of eliminating factory weak links in my vehicles. And for the most part, look forward to doing it. For me, it's part of the 'play' in "Pay to Play", and I'll keep doing it untill I can no longer crawl under my truck.

Yes, sometimes I'm not as patient as I could be about the "Pay to Play" broken record. When I look back at all my experiences this little phrase, I can't remember one that was positive or served a good purpose.

No offence intended.

 

[PFlory]

I'm not as concerned about noise as I am about shudder and vibration at launch, but what is IMO. Are there any special tools required to do the clutch replacement?

 

[RHestand]

Peter, no special tools that I can recall, other than a trans. jack. He sends an alinement tool with the kit.

Also we found it less cumbersome to remove the transfer case, before the transmission.

No shudder or vibration, but very quick to engage. This clutch does not like to be slipped.

I found that even when empty, for anything slower than a normal takeoff, I would use first gear. Like slow stop & go trafic, tight parking spaces, first gear is much less abrupt.

Also SBC is great co. to deal with. Pete has all the answers. I would def. buy my next clutch from them.

Ray

 

[GCroyle]

Peter,



A barring tool to turn the engine over to remove the DMF is very helpful with a G56. The engine must be rotated to remove the DMF.

 

[Regcabguy]

My experience with the stock factory 06 clutch was, after over powering it twice with my Smarty on #9 (at about 60MPH), it went away very quickly.

I bought and installed an SBC, CON-OFE?, flywheel, clutch and hydraulics, with excel. results.

Warning! Be prepared for, IMO, a moderate increase in drive-train noise. Most noticeable at idle, in N. with the clutch pedal out, and under load, at lower RPMs.

Ray

PS. RE: Pay to Play. I already new when I bought my truck new, in 06 that I would soon be up-grading the compromised/factory engineered, weak link, clutch assembly.

When I set my Smarty on #9, and floored it, I was doing a test. The test was to see if what I had read about stock clutches was also true with my truck. And yes it was.

Personally, I get a lot of satisfaction out of eliminating factory weak links in my vehicles. And for the most part, look forward to doing it. For me, it's part of the 'play' in "Pay to Play", and I'll keep doing it untill I can no longer crawl under my truck.

Yes, sometimes I'm not as patient as I could be about the "Pay to Play" broken record. When I look back at all my experiences this little phrase, I can't remember one that was positive or served a good purpose.

No offence intended.

Regarding the noise increase with the OFE's,you read different accounts all the time. "Fisherguy" on here like a lot of others claims minimal noise increase and an almost stock like engagement while others experience what you have. Peter told me I wouldn't notice the difference,but I think that was an exaggeration. I'm milking this sucker as it works great other than it's clamping power. I suggested to Peter he make a DMF to his higher standards that would hold maybe 100+ more hp,but it didn't seem feasable.

 

[CKelley1]

rhestand is very accurate in his statement. the three we have all make noise, one more so than the others but not enough to bother me. i tow heavy and with the mods i made for more mpg has increased my low end torque by more than 50% and there is no sine os it ever trying to slip. as he stated the clutch does not like to be sliped. so learn to take off in first gear like you are suppose to and you will never wear this clutch out also like i stated this flywheel has a real pilot bearing in it. just compare the two. you will be amazed at the quality difference