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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Best source for a quality front fender?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bodywork - with pictures!

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transmission Removal ?

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My passenger side fender has collected enough crud between the door and wheelwell that it suddenly exploded through with terminal rust. It was absolutely packed with crud in there, yet the driver's side is fine and has no crud I can see... go figure... :confused:

Anyway, I need a replacement fender. I would prefer oem but would settle for a quality aftermarket part. Junkyard fenders in the rustbelt are a crap shoot, so aftermarket is more likely since the local Dodge dealers are outrageously priced on everything.

My experiences with offshore sheetmetal parts is that they suck.

Any favorite, tried-and-true, brands and sources come to mind?
 
I see that some places offer general replacements as well as more expensive "CAPA" certified. I'm not familiar with that certification. Does it have to do with fit or the materials used or both, and is it worth paying the extra $ for it?

Thanks, Scott
 
body parts

I get all my stuff through Wheelers autbody in Dubuque Iowa. They have the good stuff at good prices.



CAPA parts are certified to fit and are at least as heavy as factory. Alot of "aftermarket" parts are chinese tin and are very light metal. CAPA is worth the price. Wheelers sells a lot of capa for the same price. DO NOT use JCWhitney or Browns of two rivers. There stuff is tin foil and fits terrible.



Dave
 
I hate rust...

I used to deliver to Wheeler. There is a big Wheelers warehouse in Waterloo, Iowa. It is the one I delivered to. I think they only sell to jobbers, though.



I appreciate everyone's input and will seek out the CAPA stuff. Pershings has good prices, but shipping costs tend to negate them. Better to buy from some place I can go and inspect what I'm buying before hand and transport myself, I think.



On a vaguely related note, I wish I could find an entire rustfree 8' box. I want to try to build my own Hide'n Side over the winter.



Its funny how my driver side door rusted so badly and fast while my passenger side is rust-free (but dented by a deer). Now my passenger side fender imploded with astonishing speed while the driver's side is fine...



I'm buying a couple gallons of Fluid Film to apply. I plan to just about fill my rocker panels with it. I have been flushing, blowing, and generally cleaning and inspecting all nooks and crannies on my truck in preparation for winter. The Zeibart I paid dearly for was obviously worthless or nearly so.



It would be very educational to be able to dissect a junkyard Dodge with cutting tools to gain a better understanding of where the inner panel trouble spots are and how to best get at them before any more rust explosions occur. What drain holes tend to get clogged. Where the leaves and maple and ash tree seeds and pine needles and mud and salt and sand and crud get in and where it gets trapped and how to prevent it.



Almost all rust problems I have found on this truck are directly related to foreign matter like leaves and crud that gets trapped. The doors are highly susceptible to poor seam sealing and tire thrown crud along the bottom edge combined with poor window seals and no rain gutters, allowing too much water inside the door.



With the poor seam seal and wide door gap on the outside, a total lack of a rain gutter, short-lived door weatherstripping, and the moisture soaking into the pinch seam inside, the door bottoms have little chance for survival.



But I did seal and rustproof my passenger door inside and out a couple years ago when I first noticed rust getting the best of my driver's door and the passenger door remains very nice, so preventive measures do work IF you identify and address the problem in time.



The front fenders appear to have a narrow, interior stiffening channel along the wheel well lip that is easily clogged by crud. There is more to it, I'm sure, but I will need to take the fender off to really see how it is put together and why one side failed while the other did not.



Such problems can apparently be dealt with and prevented given that only one fender and only one door on my truck suffered from buildup.



This would make for an interesting study and sticky here on TDR:



Rust-prone areas on each generation. What causes them and how to prevent them. Like I said, a little time spent dissecting a Midwestern junkyard truck body would reveal much and help you literally know your truck inside and out.



Maybe some members that replace a body panel for whatever reason could cut the old one apart and post photos and we could compile them? Rockers, fenders, and doors are the real trouble spots.
 
With no replies forecoming, I gather that was either a bad idea or I am the only one with rust issues.



My truck, for better or worse, is a lifelong deal; just like that other "for better or worse" deal in my life. The years may take their toll, but I am not interested in, nor can I afford, a newer ride. The same goes for my truck. ;)



I always said I bought a Cummins that just happened to have a Dodge wrapped around it. It could say Ford on the tailgate for all I care as long as it has that 12valve Big C motor.



The Cummins will outlive me. The trick is going to be keeping the Dodge from falling off it.



I get obsessed with rust. I HATE rust more than cellulite thighs. The problem with rust is even when you think you have taken preventive measures (Ziebart is a joke, as is Steel Seal), it STILL finds a way to disrupt even the most longterm relationship.



If you live in a warm, dry, arid state: Good for you and your truck. Please keep buying newer models so your old ones can be organ and body part donors for our Rustbelt Midwest trucks.
 
If you live in a warm, dry, arid state: Good for you and your truck. Please keep buying newer models so your old ones can be organ and body part donors for our Rustbelt Midwest trucks.



Ditto that!



I used to sell rustproofing back in the 80's. It was Rusty Jones and had a warrantee that would fix the rust. Ziebart (or someone) lobbied the state legislature and they passed a law that limited the maximum that a rustproofer could pay out. That killed our warrantee advantage and sales dropped.



I had a front fender replaced on my '94 a few years back. The aftermarked replacement was welded to the OEM inner fender. After I wrecked my truck I've found a couple fenders in the local yard but you have to look close.



I'm intrigued by the seal sealer appication to the inside of the doors to keep water out of the seam, I'll do that on my new (California) cab. The other problem with the doors is that the drains are not at the low point.



Another fun thing Dodge did was to stuff foam filled plastic bags into the areas between the outside of the cab sides and the inner panels to keep noise down. This also maintains humidity in those rust prone areas.



I think that if Dodge would have spent a few dollars more on the steel coatings, the doors and rockers would hold up better since the rust seems to start in the pinch welds. I've seen other brands of vehicles that are a lot older but with similar welds in better condition.
 
Scott. .

The problem with Ziebart was it was only as good as the installer was...



I am in agreement with your comments on rust as I also hate it. I have had the right door of my truck redone on the bottom and when the gentleman who did it he took both doors apart and shot the inside with a chemical to prevent rust. he then made sure the drains were clean and free from debris and put the doors back together and repainted the right one on the lower edge.



While the rust is an issue with our trucks for sure it is no way as bad as the late 70's and early 80's Mopar were when Ma Mopar got caught using recycled metal and not prepping it correctly... ... Andy
 
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