FASS fuel filter

[EMoroney]

I am thinking about installing the FASS fuel pump and filter setup on my "03 truck. Truck currently has 140k miles and I am on the original lift pump. I certainly know I am running on borrowed time. My question: how difficult is the install of this FASS system and since the filtration is down to 3 microns, do these filters need to be changed more frequently than the stock filters? Thanks for the help.



Emoroney

 

[DaveHess]

Emoroney: The install wasn't bad. Since you have a long box like me, I had to modify the FASS mounting bracket to mount on the bed support as the instructions say. Other than that I had little trouble with the install. After the bracket mod was sorted out, it took me about 3 additional hours to finish up and get the truck running. I ended up with a leak from the CP3 and later from the fuel line that was disconnected between the factory filter and CP3. I finally just removed that section and clamped it. The CP3 leak was fixed by teflon taping the fitting into the CP3. I did not like doing that but it fixed the leak so I guess that's life. I purchased the OEM filter Removal Kit from GDP but just have not had time to do the work yet. My pressure sits between 16 to 18 PSI all the time measured at the pump outlet. As for the filters... not sure yet. Tentatively I am going to change them at about 21 to 22K (4th oil change). In the meantime I will keep an eye on the pressure and if it shows additional drop I may change filters early. I don't know and the instructions give you no guidance otherwise. They do give you a cross-reference for their FASS filters to Fleetguards which is nice. PM me if you need help.



Dave

 

[BMHenry]

I would like to tag along on this thread. . I too am also considering a FASS system for my 05 3500 LB. . Is there much of a difference in the install between the 03 of emoroney and my own? Is this a simple install or better left to a professional? I installed my own Jacobs brake on my turck among other things. . Thanks for the help guys

 

[rholcom2]

I would say if you research the install, run your tank completely empty, have all the parts and the plan..... it should take you about 6 hours. I had the biggest part of the day wrapped up in the install of my AirDog. However, I did install a Vulcan Draw Straw I module in my tank (as my 04. 5 had not had the in tank pump relocation done), the GDP Fuel Filter Housing Block-off Plate, and did the Fuel Tank Vent Kit Mod. Additionally, I had to deal with way too much fuel in the tank. If I had it to do over again I would utilize the GDP block-off plate, but would save my money on the Vulcan product. I had an issue on my install, called to ask a question and was treated like a 3rd rate citizen. I actually followed up the call with some photos and questions and was ignored. Pretty sad considering I purchased my AirDog through them as well. No more Vulcan products for me.





As for difficulty... . not too bad. I am not a mechanic by any means, and completed the install with the help of researching the TDR forums, and the instructions with the AirDog. No big deal, just time. YOU CAN DO IT!!!

 

[DaveHess]

Unless the original lift pump went out and they put the in-tank module in, Emoroney shouldn't have to fool with running the tank empty. BMHenry will though.

Ryan, how difficult is the GDP mod to accomplish in regards to fooling around in that space and the fuel lines. Any tips for me???

 

[rholcom2]

GDP mod is not difficult at all, it does take some patience fishing the fuel bowl out of the truck. One tip if your truck has an APPS (which mine does) its much easier to remove the inner fender. With the inner fender removed you can fish the filter bowl and lift pump assembly out past the shock tower and out of the truck. I really can't put my finger on the most difficult aspect of the install. I would rate it as follows:



Most Crucial/Nerve Racking: Threading Elbow into CP3, knowing that if you screw up this part you really screwed up. Also, generally speaking making sure no dirt is allowed to enter the hose or fittings at any time during the installation.



Most Unclear/Part I was most unsure about: Best routing of the supply and return rubber fuel hose. Hindsight will show you the kit (at least the AirDog kit) includes about 3'-4' of extra line. Or at least the routing I used yielded that amount of excess. I actually took it a step further and wraped very large plastic wire look around all the fuel line to prevent chaffing.



Most likely to test your patience: Getting the hose pushed onto the pushloc fittings. HINT: I had very good luck with a heat gun to soften the hose and Lucas Oil Fuel Injector Cleaner. This will make your install much smoother.



Biggest Problem I had: Getting the Doorman fitting that remains on the truck, this line is a return from the motor, and fuel rail. The Vulcan Draw Straw I did not have the proper angle for this line to simply click on. So, I had to visit several parts stores and finally ended up going to the plumbing supply house and found common plumbing parts that modified the angle so the Dorman fitting would simply snap on. Vulcan wouldn't acknowledge any issues EVER encountered during installing the Draw Straw I kit. I was told none of the other 3,000 trucks the mod had been installed on encountered an issue. So, I guess for some reason my truck is a "one off" by Dodge, wonder if that will yield a higher resale?

 

[EMoroney]

thanks for your help, Dave!

Eric Moroney

 

[DaveHess]

Ryan: Did you torque the return lines to the GDP plate? If so what torque? Akso, did you replace the four gaskets on the banjo bolts of the return lines? I bought four new ones. Thanks for your help.

 

[rholcom2]

No, I did not torque the lines, just tightened it down (i am sure this is not proper procedure, I didnt really crank down on it but wasnt a wuss either). But did install the gaskets on the banjo bolts. I did keep an eye on all the fittings for a few weeks to monitor leaks. I did have 1 fitting that seeped enough to tell ("wet" fitting that gathered dirt/dust).

 

[LowFly]

If shouldnt have taken six hours to install our system. My first one took me three hours and that was going slow. The FASS system is designed for easy installation.

The leaking issue i am seeing is common because noone usually uses some sort of thread tape or pipe dope on the threads... ... It is imperitive that one of these sealing methods be used. The fuel is under PSI and will bleed by if no mechanical seal is there.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

I installed my Fass 95 system last weekend. First off, I'm an aircraft mechanic and I fear nothing mechanical. That being said, it took me 8 hours to install mine. I will say that one hour was directed towards pulling the wiring harness apart so I could include wiring for a pressure sensor on the Fass pump and another 30-45 minutes for familiarizing myself with the install before I started it. I was also mega-anal about the cleanliness of the installation with regards to routing the fuel lines and wire harness so that took some additional time as well. I have a long bed so the install was easier than a short bed or so I'm told and I can see how on a short bed it would be more of a challenge, I also have the external lift pump so I didn't have to mess with the draw straw. I used thread tape on all the threaded junctions and have no leaks. My pressure gauge was installed when I had the stock lift pump so I only have a 15 psi gauge and now it's a shade over 15 psi so I would guess a solid 16 psi.

Overall, I thought the kit was good, the quality of everything was good and the directions make sense once you sit down with all the parts and the truck and get a sense of what goes where. It's not a hard kit to install at all, just make sure you have all the tools you need ahead of time to do it and you won't have any issues.

 

[DaveHess]

The leaking issue i am seeing is common because noone usually uses some sort of thread tape or pipe dope on the threads... ... It is imperitive that one of these sealing methods be used. The fuel is under PSI and will bleed by if no mechanical seal is there.

Lowfly: The instructions I received with my kit did not specify to use thread tape or any other thread sealant for this particular step in the instructions (connecting the FASS line to the CP3).



Not to slam you or the product as it has performed flawlessly and you yourself were very helpful when I was fighting the leak, but the install was not a three hour job while laying on my back on a concrete floor. I may be a real pansy here but that filter assembly gets heavy when you are supporting it with the bracket attached trying to figure the instructions out when trying to locate the prescribed mounting position. Placing the bracket and assembly according to the instructions and pictures (which pictured a short box mounting to a spring perch I believe) did not jive with my long box. There was a lot of trial and error, moving the pump assembly to different positions on the mounting bracket, to get the pump assembly to not hit anything. I finally had to grind off about 1/3 of the bracket part that attaches to the bed support to get the pump assembly low enough to not hit the filler tube. Then drill a new hole to mount to the bed support. After all that, the remaining 3 hours was spent doing the job right the first time. Another tip I could offer is: I made a heavy rubber mudflap and mounted it just forward of the driver's side rear tire to keep stones, mud, and other crap from striking my investment.



Like I said earlier, there was no offense meant in this post.

 

[CoastyAV8R]

I installed fender liners after putting on the FASS pump to keep all the muck out of mine, it's crazy not to do something to protect it. $90 for a set of inner fender liners off of Ebay did the trick...

 

[CToney]

FAss install easier on LWB trucks. I used a plasma torch to cut holes instead of drilling them. On the '03's the hardest part is taking the fuel line off of the top of the tank. Three hours sounds about right but I've done 1 '01 and two '03's now. I fill the separator with fuel and apply a little air pressure to the tank to get them to prime. I don't think it is recommended but I like to get things done sometimes.

 

[steved]

Lowfly: The instructions I received with my kit did not specify to use thread tape or any other thread sealant for this particular step in the instructions (connecting the FASS line to the CP3).

I thought I remembered mine coming with o-rings on the fittings (as in self sealing)??? There were four fittings, and I remember all four requiring no sealant. I wonder if they changed something?

 

[steved]

FAss install easier on LWB trucks. I used a plasma torch to cut holes instead of drilling them. On the '03's the hardest part is taking the fuel line off of the top of the tank. Three hours sounds about right but I've done 1 '01 and two '03's now. I fill the separator with fuel and apply a little air pressure to the tank to get them to prime. I don't think it is recommended but I like to get things done sometimes.

I also ran fuel through the entire system (bumped the starter) and into a bucket, prior to hooking up the CP3... just to ensure no shavings, dirt, or other junk was hiding in the lines somewhere.

 

[steved]

Another tip I could offer is: I made a heavy rubber mudflap and mounted it just forward of the driver's side rear tire to keep stones, mud, and other crap from striking my investment.

Awe... now I got another project for this weekend... :-laf

 

[DaveHess]

Steved: There was an O-ring on the fitting and that was part of my problem with using teflon tape on that fitting. Number one; I hate using teflon tape in a situation like this due to the chance of a strand of taping coming off and being ingected through the pump. Is this a catastrophic event??? I don't know and I don't make enough money to find out. And second, I made the leap that the O-ring served the purpose of sealing the fitting. So I had a problem with doing this but Lowfly assured me it was the thing to do. So I did it. Very gingerly I might add and after wrapping it several times around the threads, I went back and ever so careful with an Exacto knife, trimmed the teflon tape to just below the O-ring. Very tedious but the results were a success.



How's that flap coming? BTW, I made mine from an old rubber bed mat and I also put one forward of the pump in the event of an errant piece of road trash coming off the front tire. I was less worried about that and more worried about the rear tire sling garbage forward! Good Luck!

 

[steved]

I must have gotten lucky then... I did not need any other sealant to make mine work. I would wonder if you got a bad o-ring??



Although I have never actually taken one apart for myself, I have been told there is actually an inlet screen on the CP3, maybe its there for such an occurrance (I'll bet they don't flush anything during the original assembly at Dodge)...