Here I am

Trailer lighting issue.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Convert SRW 3500 to Rear Dual's

1-1.5" Variable rate front coils

Status
Not open for further replies.
I had a short on a parking light on my goosneck trailer. What ever it did, the plug on the back of my truck no longer has power. I tested the prong with the 12v tester that is for the parking lights and it has no juice. Can anyone help. The 30 amp fuse under the hood was not blown. I know the Dealer had to reset an internal fuse with their computer when I had a short before. Everything else on the trailer works.
 
you can only reset it a couple of times then you have to replace the pcm. you need to build a fuse and relay circuit that eliminates this problem we have built many of them and have refined them to a very good level. we use a 6x9x2 box mounted on the inside near the tailgate we mount a second 7 pin socket near here also for a in bed one we mount a 40 amp thermal breaker near the truck fuse box and run a jumper from the battery connection to the breaker and use 8 or 10 gauge wire to run back to the box genosgarage.com has the fuse block it is a six bay panel for $10. 95 the relays we get from j. c. whitney #zw149432 for $5. 99 ea get four of them get four diodes from radio shack or any electronics parts place i se 2. 5 amp 1,000 volt because in bulk i can get them for 25c ea. but any thing from 1 amp 400 volts up will work use 4 15 amp fuses connect a ground wire to one side of each relay coil a diode with the band facing the coil to the other side of the coil. connect the truck wire to the other side of the diode connect the common contact to the fuse and the n. o. contact to the 7 pin plug. the diode is to protect the pcm from feedback from collapsing field of the coil. now you never have to worry about hurting the pcm no mater how mis wired the trailer is
 
you can only reset it a couple of times then you have to replace the pcm. you need to build a fuse and relay circuit that eliminates this problem we have built many of them and have refined them to a very good level. we use a 6x9x2 box mounted on the inside near the tailgate we mount a second 7 pin socket near here also for a in bed one we mount a 40 amp thermal breaker near the truck fuse box and run a jumper from the battery connection to the breaker and use 8 or 10 gauge wire to run back to the box genosgarage.com has the fuse block it is a six bay panel for $10. 95 the relays we get from j. c. whitney #zw149432 for $5. 99 ea get four of them get four diodes from radio shack or any electronics parts place i se 2. 5 amp 1,000 volt because in bulk i can get them for 25c ea. but any thing from 1 amp 400 volts up will work use 4 15 amp fuses connect a ground wire to one side of each relay coil a diode with the band facing the coil to the other side of the coil. connect the truck wire to the other side of the diode connect the common contact to the fuse and the n. o. contact to the 7 pin plug. the diode is to protect the pcm from feedback from collapsing field of the coil. now you never have to worry about hurting the pcm no mater how mis wired the trailer is

Do you have a schematic (wiring diagram) for this?? I have thought I need something to protect the PCM.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top