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Will a deep trans pan lower 48RE temps?

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Leak from transmission or rear of motor- HELP

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It's finally cooling down here in Las Vegas but this summer I've had to do a lot more in-town driving than I used to. I have a trans temp gauge in the hot line going to the cooler and it regularly gets to 210 degrees - sometimes even a little hotter. I don't know what the temps in the pan are.



Will an aluminum pan help lower my 48RE temps? I'd really rather not go with the deep sump pan due to ground clearance but if it will help my trans live significantly longer I could find a way to protect it I guess.
 
I have the MH DD pan and the trans temp sensor is in the pan.



Driving the truck bobtail (not towing), it will run approx 140-145F.



Towing the 11k fiver on the flats, it will run approx 155F



Towing the 11k fiver up big grades, it will run approx 160-165F



Manuvering the 5er into a camprgound parking spot, with the trans in PARK, it will get to 180-190F.



The other nice feature is the drain plug. R&R of the fluid is a much simpler and cleaner experience...



Hope this helps,

Louis
 
Don't worry about the ground clearance with the double deep pan it is still above the crossmember height. With all the off roading I do I have never touched it.
 
I would recommend using Lubrication Engineers 7500 ATF also. We changed over the fleet of fire trucks that I work on, and have noticed lower temperatures and better oil analysis reports. It lubricates better and holds up to the higher temperatures better. The Allison 4000 series transmissions with retarders often hit 350 degrees. I have heard that this atf is one of the only things you can do to get an E4Od to live in the Fords.
 
It's finally cooling down here in Las Vegas but this summer I've had to do a lot more in-town driving than I used to. I have a trans temp gauge in the hot line going to the cooler and it regularly gets to 210 degrees - sometimes even a little hotter. I don't know what the temps in the pan are.



Will an aluminum pan help lower my 48RE temps? I'd really rather not go with the deep sump pan due to ground clearance but if it will help my trans live significantly longer I could find a way to protect it I guess.
If your hot line temperature is ok then the pan is ok too. Not only do you get faster response on the hot line, you get a better idea of the maximum temperature the fluid reached and the maximum temperature does matter.



You may find these links useful (though the temps might be on the conservative side for ATF+4):

Transmission Oil

TCI - TECHNICAL INFORMATION: Transmission Life Expectancy
 
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Thanks for the links. Looks like if I change the fluid pretty often, I'll still be ok. Definitely going to need a drain plug though so maybe I'll try out the pan and report back next summer.

For you guys who use the aluminum pans, I get an awful lot of clutch material on the magnet in my stock pan. I don't think a magnetic drain plug is going to handle that much. Did you put the ring magnet in your aluminum pan? How?

One other question. I was thinking about just welding a nut to the stock pan and making a drain that way but it occurred to me that the pan has no rust and it looks like bare steel. The magnet also sticks to it so I'm confused as to what type of steel it is. Can I weld it with regular mild steel MIG wire? I guess I could go with a B&M drain plug but I'm always looking for a reason to weld something. :)
 
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No, not in any of our testing. stock pan size is fine, it's the condition of the internals and the type of fluid that makes the real difference.
 
Yes it will BUT I also

installed an additional fan (thermo controlled) assisted oil cooler that sits high on the frame (Inboard) in front of the rear wheel... that has an additional 20 feet of hose... . this whole setup also adds a couple extra quarts..... as well as additional cooling.....
 
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