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extra fuel filtration help

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2007 Cold air box:

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I have the Air Dog 2 and i would like to add more filtration. Can someone please give me an idea of what i can do and maybe some picks of your set ups. Thank you.
 
I just put an Air Dog 100 on my truck this summer. What is an Air Dog 2? I just checked the Pureflow website and didn't see it.

Also, why do you want more filtration?

I'm not being snide, these are real questions.

Thanks
 
I just put an Air Dog 100 on my truck this summer. What is an Air Dog 2? I just checked the Pureflow website and didn't see it.



Also, why do you want more filtration?



I'm not being snide, these are real questions.



Thanks



The AD-2 has some new features. One of them is that you don't need the drop tube anymore. The pickup goes in to the factory location replacing the stock in-tank pump eliminating the infamous 1/4 tank problem. Ot also has an adjustable regulator.



I like to have a bit more filtration just for piece of mind. I have the Amsoil remote which takes care of the oil and now i would like to take care of the fuel. It may not be needed but i drive my truck hard towing a lot and i just want to be safe.
 
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The AD-2 has some new features. One of them is that you don't need the drop tube anymore. The pickup goes in to the factory location replacing the stock in-tank pump eliminating the infamous 1/4 tank problem.



I like to have a bit more filtration just for piece of mind. I have the Amsoil remote which takes care of the oil and now i would like to take care of the fuel. It may not be needed but i drive my truck hard towing a lot and i just want to be safe.



I have the 2 micron fuel filter setup from Glacier Diesel Power. A very easy install.



Glacier Diesel Power - Product Detail
 
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Thank you that's exactly what i'm looking for but there is only one thing that worries me. With the AD filtering at approximately 2 microns and the GDP 2 micron remote set up would that restrict the fuel flow to the pump a bit too much?



Send Richard an email or call him. He is very responsive and will be able to answer your question.
 
I guess I am wondering why, if the AD has 2 micron filtration, you feel you need to add additional <2 micron> filtering?? What do you want to achieve?
 
Thank you that's exactly what i'm looking for but there is only one thing that worries me. With the AD filtering at approximately 2 microns and the GDP 2 micron remote set up would that restrict the fuel flow to the pump a bit too much?

I would run a FS19594 in place of the f/w sep on the AD. This will take the first filtration from 140um to 20um, and the f/w sep from 50% free and 0% emulsified to 90% free and emulsified (OE spec is 95% free and emulsified). Then I would add a kit like the GDP but use a Cat 1R-0750 its a true 2um filter (both the AD and the GDP filters are only 5um absolute). I would re-plumb the OE filter in and put a Baldwin PF7977 in its place, this will ensure you meet OE spec for f/w sep. Or you could add a Baldwin BF1212 before the AD and not worry about the OE canister.

You can click the link in my sig to see what I did on my truck.
 
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We had read about issue here on the TDR about the time the 05's started to come out and the change to ULSD and the dealer giving customers fits... .

When the switch was made to ULSD we designed and installed on all our trucks a aluminum block with a 10 micron primary filter and water trap and a secondary filter that is a 2 micron filter. . To date we usually go a full year on this before we change the filters.

Since the 2 micron is smaller than the OE filter we once a year drain some fuel from the OE filter and check for dirt and water...

Once every quarter or so drain a few once's from the 10 micron / water trap... to date we've not got more than a couple of table spoons of water out of this filter...

We not only do this on our Dodges(Cummins) but on our CAT engines as well...

We fuel 95% of the time at card locks and most of these guys cater to Class 8 trucks, and often we see the filters on the side of the pump with a date on it... and to be honest I don't think I've seen a filter more than a few months old...

When we first started this program we tested the fuel pressure behind our filter system and have always read a good number... .

Because of this thread and the one on the 6. 7L area I decided to change out all the filters. . on our 05 its been at least 18K miles maybe close to 20K... I'll do it Monday and we always try to blow through them and than take them apart...

If they are really full of crud I'll take some photos and post them. .
 
IMHO... To put an additional 2 micron filter when you already have one would be very much an over kill. I run a Glacier 2 mic in series with a 7 mic element in the stock filter assy. I just posted a question to the masses here about the stock pump being able to handle the extra restriction of the 2 mic filter. I am getting 7 psi at WOT and 10-11 at idle. All is good! I would leave what you got alone.
 
IMHO... To put an additional 2 micron filter when you already have one would be very much an over kill. I run a Glacier 2 mic in series with a 7 mic element in the stock filter assy. I just posted a question to the masses here about the stock pump being able to handle the extra restriction of the 2 mic filter. I am getting 7 psi at WOT and 10-11 at idle. All is good! I would leave what you got alone.



But the AD element isn't a 2um absolute filter, and neither is your GDP filter. Both are 5um absolute. If you want to swap your GDP for a true 2um filter then use a Cat 1R-0750.



I too am having good results with 3 filters on my OE pump 8-9 idle and 5 WOT.
 
Just for another angle, here's the SUB-micron setup I have installed on my '02:



#ad




And here's a removed TP filter cartridge after about 12K miles use:



#ad




The flour-like consistency residue the Frantz has trapped, can be seen clearly - this filter is installed ahead of the OEM filter, and in the years this filter has been in place, I've never seen a DROP of water in the OEM filter canister...



Here's a complete under-hood shot, showing the fuel filter installed on the driver side:



#ad




A similar sub-micron bypass oil filter on the passenger side. And YES, any added fuel filter providing the filtration you are looking for will be either very restrictive, or else very huge in physical size - I use a Walbro high-PSI/high volume fuel pump, with a regulator valve to maintain a pretty constant 15 PSI right at the inlet to my VP-44 - dunno what the later CR trucks like to see at their pumps...
 
For whatever it's worth, I run a Stanadyne 2 micron filter. They publish a test curve at 45 GPH (about half my flow rate), but at least it's something. No one else seems to do this.

Has lots if nice accessories available like WIF sensor and clear water collection bowl. I like it. Filter head is model FM-100.

You can even get a lift pump that mates with the filter head, which I think is pretty cool.

Ryan
 
But the AD element isn't a 2um absolute filter, and neither is your GDP filter. Both are 5um absolute. If you want to swap your GDP for a true 2um filter then use a Cat 1R-0750.

I too am having good results with 3 filters on my OE pump 8-9 idle and 5 WOT.

I learn something new all the time on this site. So you are saying that my 2 micron isn't going to totally filter everything at 2 micron? It lets some larger stuff through?
 
I guess I am wondering why, if the AD has 2 micron filtration, you feel you need to add additional <2 micron> filtering?? What do you want to achieve?



I have the AD alone. I removed my factory filter and canister from the truck and installed the GDP delete block. I just don't feel comfortable with the AD filter alone. Like i said i drive my truck hard and i most of the time use off highway fuel. If my pump will support the extra filtration it would make me feel at ease to have it.
 
I would run a FS19594 in place of the f/w sep on the AD. This will take the first filtration from 140um to 20um, and the f/w sep from 50% free and 0% emulsified to 90% free and emulsified (OE spec is 95% free and emulsified). Then I would add a kit like the GDP but use a Cat 1R-0750 its a true 2um filter (both the AD and the GDP filters are only 5um absolute). I would re-plumb the OE filter in and put a Baldwin PF7977 in its place, this will ensure you meet OE spec for f/w sep. Or you could add a Baldwin BF1212 before the AD and not worry about the OE canister.



You can click the link in my sig to see what I did on my truck.



AH you seem very knowligable on this issue. I have the AD mounted in my bed and i removed the factory canister. What should i do? If i replace the AD F/W seperator filter with the FS19594 what kit should i buy for the secondary filtration set up? and shoulkd i install it before or after the AD set up? Thank you very much.
 
SSHafranko,If you want the absolute best filtration install filtration independent of engine function. Pressure KILLS filtration http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdfs/product_lit/americas_brochures/LT32599_01.pdf

I posted this on another thread, I have found these 86 pages tell it all, also Cummins used J905 American National Standards Institute - ANSI eStandards Store) The most convenient method to test the quality of a filter is to measure the reduction it produces. Example: a good 2mic Hydroscopic media filter @ 3-4Psi will drop a 16GPM pump to 5GPM. I see pressure talk about all the time how great it is went in fact they are destroying filtration. Now if you want performance PSI will increase HP, Why are owners removing the stock canister? It is somewhat restrictive for performance!! it is still added filtration. I have hammered this subject for over 5 years. The pictures of the Frantz look promising the question would be what effect Bio-Diesel or extreme cold will have? Gary - K7GLD that is some quality engineering there.



ANSI: Type J905 in Document Number ,Than click the link Fuel filter test methods.
 
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I learn something new all the time on this site. So you are saying that my 2 micron isn't going to totally filter everything at 2 micron? It lets some larger stuff through?



It does still filter some particles at 2um, its 94% at 2um, where the Cat is 98. 7% at 2um. So there is some room for improvement.



AH you seem very knowligable on this issue. I have the AD mounted in my bed and i removed the factory canister. What should i do? If i replace the AD F/W seperator filter with the FS19594 what kit should i buy for the secondary filtration set up? and shoulkd i install it before or after the AD set up? Thank you very much.



If you're not opposed to putting your OE setup back in I would add it back to the system. You can put fittings in it that will handle all the flow of the AD. The stock filter has the same flow ratings as the FF5613/FF100-3 so there is no issue there. Its the fittings in the OE canister that are restrictive, but those are replaced when you put 3/8 hose to them. Then I would add a kit like the GDP kit that holds a 2um under the intake horn. But get it without the filter and use a Cat 1R-0750. This will really give you some clean fuel and no need to worry.



The other option would be to run the AD FF100-10/FF5617 in the final filter spot on the AD. This is a 10um filter, and with the stock filter and the Cat it would give you sequential filtering that would lead to much longer filter life. The filtering would be at 20-10-7 (or 5)-2, and thats a LOT of cleaning.



Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so make sure the sender is between the final filter and the CP3. This gauge will also help you determine filter life.



I could relate to this... but for the average joe, even the stock AD filtration is several steps above OE filtration.



Yes and no, they do better at filtering, but worse at separating water. .
 
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