Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo Exploded . . . Anyone have a view

[Joe Mc]

I'm copy catting something someone else did here when he was looking for an "exploded" view of a power steering pump. I hope I have better results than he did though . . .



I'm looking for an exploded view of my turbo - an HTT, Series 71 Quick Diesel 64/14, possibly a parts list and a source for parts?



I'm having a boost issue = not being able to get more than 38# regardless of WG rod setting. I previously (years back) had maxed out the 0 - 50# gage and then adjusted the rod to allow 44#+/-. I've heard from a fellow TDR Member that this style turbo has been known to become problematic in the WG department, so I'm hopefully taking it off and doing a bench inspection this weekend. Which is why I'm looking for a view and parts list to aid in speedy replacement of parts if necessary.



Thanks for your help.



Joe Mc

 

[SRadke]

Are you just expecting wastegate part problems? You can see most of that by removing the cover. There aren't many parts associated with the wastegate for that matter.

 

[Joe Mc]

I know there aren't many parts maybe a puck or two. I'll just work with HTT.

 

[rivercat]

I guess you cant blame a weak HO VP like I can. I Get full spool 50+ lbs on hills but it just seems slow getting there. I wonder if an adrenaline would help bottom end timing like a smarty does with the top end fuel of the comp

 

[Joe Mc]

OK guys and gals heres the result/cause of my low boost issue. A bit of a story to start it off. Last Saturday morning I decided to remove the turbo to inspect the waste gate system. I grabbed the PB blaster and opened the hood to give everything a good soaking to ease R & R. I started to give the turbo to manifold nuts a soak and noticed an exh manif bolt missing#@$%!. specifically top #6. I checked a few more tops as their easier #1, 2 & 3 as soon as I put the allen wrench in it moved with little to no effort. Bingo, I wasn't getting all the exhaust gas to the out side of the turbo = low boost.

A bit of advice I hope all can learn from my trials of wanting to convert the ATS allen/cap head bolts to studs or even hex head bolts. Wont work unless you take a bunch of stuff off to make room to slide the manifold onto the studs. Then as well, don't even think of converting to hex head screws, grade 10. 9, 10MX1. 50X35 heat treated bolts are 17MM heads at least with my ATS 3-piece I couldn't get a box wrench or socket on the bottom center (#3 & 4) to tighten them. Back to the allen bolts and modify some tools to allow you to really get a bite and tighten them.

Tics me off that I lost the easiest bolt to tighten #6, even after I ran it thru heat cycle, re-tighten bolts and repeated 3X they still worked their way loose.

I'm going to pay more attention now that this happened and check them every oil change.

Hope this helps someone out there. Hey guys & gals - time to check those manifold bolts if you have an after-market manifold :-laf

 

[SRadke]

Most guys still using the allen head bolts drill a small hole through the heads and wire them through the the next bolt so they can't back off. It's quite common.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

Most guys still using the allen head bolts drill a small hole through the heads and wire them through the the next bolt so they can't back off. It's quite common.

ditto I know I thought Rip was telling me awhile back of a company that sold sets of bolts with the heads having a safety wire daisy chained together to not allow backing out. same company did alot of safety items for high drag racing and slep pullers on safety protocol.

but thanks for the tip on watching the bolts. I'm still waiting for my stock manifold to crack or do something bad and then I will upgrade.

 

[Joe Mc]

SRadke thanks. I did that with the flywheel bolts on one of my hot rods some time ago and didn't think about it on the truck till after all was done. If they start creeping on me then I'll be drillin and wirin.

Thanks